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Don't forget the water... It's by far the main ingredient in beer and it can have a huge impact as well.

Hmm... Am I the only one that observes quite the opposite in my beers? Generally I experience the loudest "POPs" once the beers are fully carbonated and conditioned, i.e. starting from approx. one month post bottling date. And I observe this no matter at what temp the beers were kept after the...

This whole process of carbonation/head development is a mystery to me as well... Interestingly, I found that it happens the same no matter at what temperature you store the beer after the initial conditioning phase. I usually just keep my ales about 1 week at room temp and then I will store them...

In my limited experience testing this idea/approach of blowing gas under the surface and then cap on foam, I found it difficult to make it work in practice, even when using a thin nozzle for the purging gas. For one, if you cannot somehow regulate your gas flow, it is very easy to make a mess...

Latest trends = clear NEIPA? "Make (NE)IPA clear again", wasn't there a thread like that going on here? I bet a "BIAB Kveik NEIPA" is so crystal clear that you'll be able to see the original screen again as if you had it in front of you.

I'm sure the next one will be a BIAB NEIPA, so no worries...

Sounds good man! Just pay attention as not to fill the bottles to the very brim. You'll need to leave something like 0.5 cm of headspace (sorry I'm too lazy to look up the conversion in inches), because the volume of the liquid will expand a bit due to CO2 production. I know that from...

Hey I'm no NEIPA expert :), I've just got one under my belt so-far. There are people on this forum that are way more knowledgeable than me when it comes to this style...(and other styles as well, for that matter ;-)). Still, let me try and answer your questions: I think that ambient basement...

My reasoning for introducing it already at dry hopping time is that it might help in scavenging that little bit of oxygen that gets inevitably in with the dry hops (either from the dry hops themselves and/or from opening the fermenter). But I have no idea if this has indeed any significant...

Yes, I'm still using a bottling bucket and I believe with decent results ;). As almost always in homebrewing, there are many ways to skin this cat, I think. FWIW that beer I was talking about placed first in NEIPA category in a comp we have over here. And I know for a fact that in that comp...

This is true for sure... and if you are not confident enough about your cold-side process it might indeed be advisable to start lower. That said, the NEIPA I was talking about earlier featured ca. 14 oz total, out of these ca. 8 oz of dry hops (quantities scaled to a standard 5 gal batch size)...

I think the grain bill looks fine but I would increase at least the dry hops significantly if you want to try to be up in NEIPA-territory. I would at least double them as to be around 1 oz per gallon of dry hopping for a start. Also, I am not sure that you are going to get true NEIPA-character...

It is definitely possible to bottle condition NEIPA without the much dreaded browning and near total loss of hop aroma/flavor. I bottled my first one on Aug 23rd and even now, almost 3 months post bottling, the beer is not showing signs of darkening. The hop flavor is still intense, although it...

...the LODO-crew have a somewhat different opinion on copper if I am not mistaken. Apparently it can trigger some oxidative reactions that can increase oxidation of beer down the line. I do not know how much there is to it myself, though. And it is certainly true that many traditional breweries...

FWIW I'm having good results brewing with ion-exchange softened tap water. I should say, though, that the system at our place is only partially softening the water. Or better put, the softened water is blended with some portion of untreated water as to mantain some hardness which is apparently...

While flipping or shaking after capping is completely unnecessary IMO (besides if you need to wet the O2-absorbing caps, as I learned here), I too do not think that this would be such a big driver of oxidation in bottle conditioned beers IF you can count on active yeast at bottling. It could...

Ah OK, did not know this. Thanks for the info. I have no experience with caps since I only use swing-top bottles.

No turning or shaking here...why would you need to do this? Even if you prime by putting sugar in each bottle, it will dissolve and the yeast would get to it also without flipping/shaking.

No additions during hot side...I just added cold side once at dry hopping time. Yes I assume that the O2 scavenging effect carries over during bottling and afterwards. No alterations in beer taste that I can detect. Also judges at a comp did not detect any weird notes so I guess I'm fine here.

I followed the process and dosage @tyrub42 detailed in his post #194. Roughly 1 gram per gallon. It is way more than the package recommended for e.g. apple juice, etc. Maybe it is possible to scale the dose down a bit and it would still be effective? The only differences being that I added it...