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Gypsum lowers ph. Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew

I use this motor on my mm3 and it works great. http://m.ebay.com/itm/360805320705?cmd=VIDESC

I went with this one because of the silicone seal. I have this installed about 4 inches from the stone barb. I have silicone tubing from the check valve to the stone barb. With this in place I don't get any wort in the silicone tube at all. http://www.mcmaster.com/#2987k48/=pjcq41...

I use a check valve I got from McMaster to prevent back flow.

The STC-1000 has an anti-shortcycle setting, I believe mine is 3 min. If you have trouble post some pictures. I have done this on 3 AC units.

Here is a recipe. http://braukaiser.com/wiki/index.php?title=Brezels_and_other_Laugengeb%C3%A4ck

It is very easy to bypass. Find the thermostat and cut the wire going in and cut the wire going out and connect them together.

I finally got this motor hooked up to my mm3 and has worked great for a couple of batches. It turns a little slower than what most are using but the price is low...

I have fermented it at 62 with good results.

The Ranco is rated for 9.8 Amps so it won't work. Get a PID and SSR.

I see you point about a potential conflict of interest. However, with all the support and help Bobby_M provides the community I think is public image is very well intact. He is exactly the type of person I like to do business with. Someone we gives back to the community with his experience...

My MM said to run about a pound of grain through.

The ferrite sleeves worked. I also had to hook the ground up in this manner. Igniter to ignition module and also gas controller to frame. Thanks for all your help

This is the RTD I am using (the deluxe model) http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=20_15&products_id=267 The part external to the control panel is shielded but the inside section is not. Should/Can I make a change here that would help? I will pick up the sleeve...

If I unplug the RTD probes I will get Error displayed on the PID but it will not jump around so I don't know if we can get anything from that (you tell me). I have emailed Auber about the issue as well. They suggest, for troubleshooting, to power the PID from a separate source. If that works...

Here is a quick vid of how the behavior looks. You can hear the spark activating. http://youtu.be/6cCCw0h2i1c

Still no luck. Also, I stated before that removing the copper gas line fixes the issue. It makes it better (doesn't jump around near as often) but still will every once in a while. I am wondering if this is just a problem with the Aubers. I am assuming when I get gas hooked up that it will...

Going to try your suggestion now and will report back. Can you clarify this statement, won't the valve and pilot be connected with the copper gas line also?

It is still not working but I will update the thread with what I have tried. I changed the ground wire to 14 Gauge with no improvement. I am confident it is a grounding issue but I don't know how to fix it. If I disconnect the small copper gas line that runs from the valve to the igniter the...

Here is how I have the ground connected. It is pretty sloppy as we are just testing. Also, this may be a non issue when gas is hooked up. It seems to run the spark for 5 to 10 seconds before the PID's go nuts. Edit I forgot to mention after this I tried to connect the ground bus to a screw...