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I wouldn't be surprised at all if a big part of the O2 before yeast comes from the pro brewer scene. I'd wager it is just a lot easier to add O2 in-line as the wort exits the chiller and goes into the cylindroconical than to try and figure out a way to stick a sintered stone down into a 300 bbl...

Not sure I understand how you got 2.075; can you explain that? Based on my math 4.15 mL of .02N acid is 0.083 mmoles of protons. Doesn't that mean that I added 0.83 mEq of acid per L? Was that just a typo? Yes I to the second part about volumes and weight. We have a LOT of gear for working...

This thread sparked my interest so I tried a titration. I had some certified N/50 H2SO4 (.02N). That 50 should seem familiar as it's what we use to convert equivalents to ppm. I calibrated my pH meter, weighed out 100g of water and titrated to pH 4.3. That took 4.15 mL. If I'm mathin' right...

Do you have any links on how to do this. I've been on-and-off looking for a dummies version of how to replace the thermostat on my refrigerator with an STC1000+ and avoid having a box duct taped to the side of my ferm fridge.

Adding calcium to the sparge will most likely have limited effect on mash pH. It takes time for the calcium to react with malt phosphates and release protons to keep the pH low. It is my opinion that you are better off acidifying your sparge water to control sparge alkalinity instead of relying...

No. Soluble minerals will be moved to the kettle but the whole reason calcium additions drop the mash pH is that they are reacting with phosphate in the mash and precipitating as hydroxyapatite while releasing protons (acid). That calcium is not soluble and will not make it to the kettle...

I do my calculations for salt and acid additions based on mash only. I treat the sparge water separately with acid only. I use Palmer's spreadsheet (with some modifications thanks to Bill Pierce and a few additions of my own to automate some of the calculations).

I use a STC1000 on my eHLT. I do use it to drive a SSR but that's not any different that what you'd have to do with most PID's anyway.

So I hooked it up and I get 12 v DC across 2 contacts. I'm pretty ignorant when it comes to picking electrical equipment; what should I search for on amazon to come up with the right relay? I've used and SSR in another project, but at the urging of "the internet" I put a fan in that box. I'd...

I was dumb and burned out the heat-side relay in an STC1000 (plugged a heat stick right into it). I was bored so I desoldered it from the board and was wondering if I could run some wires out of the board to drive an external mechanical relay or SSR. Seems that's all the board is doing right...

Thanks!

I want to: brew more 10 gallon batches stick with 1 mash/1 boil as much as possible still have variety on tap improve my yeast handling I was thinking about all those "wants" and reading up on my favorite style (irish red) and I noticed that it can be brewed as either an ale or a...

Im in!

That sounds promising. Got a link? I can't seem to make google/amazon turn up such a beast

Is that a 1-piece solution or did you have put a coupling and a pipe in there also? (links/pics if you gotem please!)

Yes brass, but it's 1/2"x1/2"x1/2" (don't recall where I saw that). I suppose I could get a 3/8"x1/2" reducing coupling and a small section of 1/2" pipe, but I'm not afraid to admit I'm terrified of adding crevices and seams to the wort-side of my CFC. I suppose I could get at this portion of it...

I'm trying to add a port to screw in a 1/2" npt based thermistor to the end of my CFC. It's a DIY with 1/4" copper refrigeration tubing (3/8" nominal OD). I wanted something like the attached photo with 3/8" copper sweat fittings and a female NPT fitting perpendicular to the flow direction. My...

Slick setup, I want!

In!

I have a sight glass and a ball valve on a Tee. The only issue is that I need to cap the sight glass or the sight glass will break the vacuum as I pump/gravity drain the kettle. Not a big deal, the cap that came on the ends of the copper coil I used to make my counterflow fits right over the end...