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So I replaced the controller in my eHLT with an STC this weekend with a minute time base flash. One weird thing is that I can’t change the set point for thermostat mode without pulling the power on the whole box. If I'm in thermostat mode, go change the set point, back out and push up arrow it...

I ordered this from the link on the gitHub page. Took a while but it arrived today. I opened it up and it's a Version1.1 That's the wrong version isn't it? It has the solder points and has A400_P written on it. Is it worth trying? Pic attached.

You can desolder the relays, or as I did, just buy an SSR that accepts 120v AC as the driving voltage. This is the one I use, but any number of ac-ac SSRs are available for sale.

To avoid carbonation, use a small air compressor instead of a CO2 tank. Hell you could probably figure out a way to hook a bike pump up to the thing with enough duct tape and tubing.

Has anyone found an amazon source for the flashable units (really love me some prime)?

You'll make good beer either way as long as all the other processes (sanitation, yeast health, water chemistry, etc) are under control. a fine tuned perfect step mash won't matter much if the extra time made you rush while pitching and forget to sanitize your O2 stone. There's a good chance that...

If you have the keg space, I say keep it. At this point it might be worth bringing into a warm area and testing if the flavor increases. If you do get an uptick in off flavor, you may have a chance of waiting it out and hoping it clears up. If you don't have the extra keg space, bottle off as...

I think it will be fine. You might be better off doing a 2-step (the low grav starter, followed by a 1.040 starter) but chances are exceedingly high you will make beer with your current plan. I say go for it.

Liberty. Clean bitterness, light floral, lovely "soft hop" character. I prefer it to the old world noble hops. Centennial is a close second. Two hearted is on my personal best beers ever short list.

I naturally carbonate in a keg quite often (particularly for english styles). You'll get a bit more sludge in the first pour, but I've cut my dip tubes short to account for that. I think your plan is fine.

With fermentation finished I don't expect that 80 for a few hours would cause any flavor issues at all. Proceed with crash and keg and make a process change to ensure that you reapply the probe next time.

I would recirculate, but maybe you can skip the mashout and just increase the temperature of your sparge water a bit if you feel you need to sparge. I'd keep in mind that plenty of good beers get made with no-sparge methods so maybe RDWHAHB. You won't be sparging very much if you are sticking...

Update my smelly faucet is lot# A0515G

Get a faucet to garden hose thread adapter, then put a garden hose quick disconnect set up on the end (I picked the brand from my nearest hardware store and they are all about the same).

I swapped a beer from my 630ss to my 650ss because it was extra foamy and all of a sudden I get nothing but sulfur smell (rotten egg) out of the tap. pH 4.43 @ 40°F (my kegerator temp) on a 3.7% ABV ordinary bitter. I didn't have any smell problems on the 630ss and googling it brought up this...

Every fridge I have ever seen cools the freezer section down really damn cold and occasionally pumps cold air into the fridge section from the freezer. In this set up there is no way to independently control the fridge and freezer (that I can think of).

My suggestion would be to mash the base malt plus the crystal malts. Run that off into a kettle (do the calculations for a no-sparge batch of the strong beer). Steep your .25 lbs pale choc, and .25 lbs special b in that wort for 10-15 minutes (feel free to start the flame at a low level and set...

I don't think you can steep terrified wheat. Maybe there will be enough enzymes in the 1.5 gallons you pull to convert the wheat starches but I wouldn't bet on it unless you pull that early in the course of the experiment. Good luck, let us know how it goes.

Anyone have a link for a liquid-liquid jumper like this for a pin lock setup?

it sure does. The cloudy is indicative of the surfactants and cheating agents getting "used up" by the minerals in the water instead of the doing their job on any lipid bilayers (critter cell membranes) that might exist on the surface you are trying to sanitize.