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need a nice stir plate for 4-6 liter starters. Don’t need heat etc. but something like the maelstrom etc. let’s see what you got.

I’d like to sell as a set so I can swap all at once. 3 ways from high gravity brewing supply. Or blichmann which are about 90-100$ each as opposed to 30-40$ each.

have a full set for a blichmann 3 kettle EHERMS system with two 3 way valves on the pump of quick connects. Like new. Still have most packaging. Have 2 brews on them. 9 1/2” 90 quick connects 7 1/2” straight quick connects Retail plus shipping is over 260$ I’d take 220$ shipped OBO.

I had the same problem and thread rcently. THERE IS NO WAY the fridge can keep up with the temp exchange between chilling the beer. Go spend 100-200$ buy an AC unit and cooler, wire the thermostat 2 wires together, and put the condenser into a water/glycol bath, annnddd BOOM. Problem solved. If...

Done

It does make sense. You’re keeping a vessel at 38 in an ambient of 68-72. Like a beer that sweats etc. there is pressure changes related to temp offsets like that. And the conical rising temp then cooling, rising and cooling etc. it’s just what happens.

I’m Pretty sure it’s the cold temp in conical in a warm environment. That demo differences causes pressure changes in a negative way. Spike agrees.

I have a spike CF15, with gas manifold on top next toncooling coil. Before gas valve I use a blow off port and tubing into a sanny bucket. I got confused with the instructions, and thought I only needed the pressure and manifold while crashing down in temp, and thought once it reached crash temp...

I don’t do it that way anymore. I like the results with cold temps and co2, with a keg. Done it both ways. I prefer the new way with my setup. Never had a problem with supposed oxygen with forces carbonation. There is a lot I didn’t say.

The solution is to just leave the gas manifold on with 2-5 PSI, for the duration of cold crash, then simple install carb stone, and gas up to correct pressure.

And yes I’m using the carb stone. And that same exact chart which is hanging on my wall.

I carbed at 37 degrees, and 11 psi is 2.48. I cold crashed down to that with my glycol chiller. And then set 11psi at reg in fermenter to achieve 2.48 of co2. Did you read the above posts? If so you would see that I cold crashed and then carbed. I would NEVER carb at 65 degrees.

So I figured it all out. I needed 5 psi at start of cold crash, and keep it in place until done. It only took 12 hours as 11 psi to carbonate to 2.4 of carbonation. Removing the pressure and reinserting blow off tube caused me to suck back 2-3 cups of starsan into my 10 gallon batch. Will do it...

So with keeping my glycol reservoir a little warmer, around 25, and my conical temp at 38, it seems to be handling it just fine. With the spike system, this is their recommended parameters, and it seems to be working for me. May differ from setup to setup, but I’m happy with it. Also spikes...

I’d even kick the idea around of using an Un-drilled stopper bung and putting .5-1 lb of co2 in carboy and quickly plugging it closed with bung. I would try in plastic carboys before glass. I don’t see why this would hurt. You have put positive pressure in place. Just a though and something to...

i applied 5 lbs of co2 to my spike CF15 conical, cold crashed down to 37, and its holding there. Being the first batch in new system, and conical, I removed the pressure and put the blow off tube back, did I screw myself? Or do you only need that co2 pressure when your actually dropping from...

I’m using the spike controller which isn’t programmable. It kicks on when temp goes .5 above or any below.

Just set comics tom37: nnutmif it can’t pass 39-38 how will setting it lower have. Any difference?

It’s atill flowing out of the return line. But I just increased to 25. Lets see how that acts.

Just cold crash in a keg hooked up to co2.... or invest in a conical and add a head pressure of co2. Simple. Brewed dozens of batches in carboys and out in fridge w airlock with no issue, EVER