Recent content by shorestyle

I work in a commercial brewery and we use peracetic acid in 0.2% dilution for sanitizing almost everything in the brewery except yeast brinks (which we use boiling water for). It's great and we've never had an infection. In 0.2% concentration the only dangers I've found from it is it dries out...

Id recommend doing a sour mash or kettle sour to introduce the lacto then ferment the beer with your sacc strain. You'll save a ton of time and you can control how sour you want your beer a lot easier

You can let that yeast free rise. I've done a few beers with that yeast up to 30 degrees C and had no fusels just tons of delicious esters and phenols. What's your reason for raising the temp? If you're fermenting warm already you shouldn't have any diacetyl. 3711 doesn't floc like crazy so...

Yes you need to worry about pushing oxygen in. To avoid this. we prime the pump and hoses with sanitizer, put a tee on the bottom valve with a valve on the tee. Start the recirc with the valve on the tee open and the tank valve closed then hot swap them (close tee valve, open tank valve...

By crashing I meant we drop the temp to 15 C a day or 2 before to floc the yeast (we do Belgian style beers so our beers get pretty warm during the ferm), yeast out on the day we dry hop, dry hop, start the recirc and turn off the glycol to let it free rise

Too low compared to what efficiency %? My opinion is if you're new and you don't know how efficient your system is, keep brewing, keep a note on your expected efficiency and adjust your grain bills accordingly. Consistency is far more important.

Don't worry about a degree or 2 difference (especially in Fahrenheit). It's splitting hairs. Stirring your mash constantly is overkill in my opinion. I'm a brewer at a commercial brewery. We don't have mash rakes so we stir our mash by hand while mashing in and then don't touch it at all during...

Tettnanger and saaz work well together

If you aren't dumping your yeast before dry hopping, I'd recommend doing that first of all. I'm a pro brewer and what we do at the brewery is crash the beer, dump the yeast, add the hops, recirculate for 8 hours then dump as much of the hops as possible. Had great results this way and it...

Not trying to disagree with you in the fact that it's an uncertainty but I've done numerous beers this way and just base my priming calculations on what the terminal gravity of the beer is. For example, I've done a saison that finished quite dry (1.004 ish). Primed it to 3.4 vol, bottle...

A traditional style dry hopped saison (bone dry, highly carbed, noble hops) blended with Gewurtztraminer grape must. 3711 yeast. Bottled into champagne 750 ml bottles with a healthy pitch of Brett Lambicus. Aged for 6 months.

ESB sound about right

There's no other option during fermentation though. You have no choice but to let it vent CO2. If you're refermenting though, my opinion is that it's better done in a bottle vs a carboy for the exact same reason that bottle conditioned beer vs force carbed beer is night and day better. Depending...

I usually just prime a bit less than I normally would depending on how dry the beer is. Never had any issues.

I've done a few beers with Brett and typically add my pitch a few days before bottling (bottle conditioning) and let it do its thing in the bottles. I know some people like to rack off a beer to a second carboy, pitch the Brett and let it sit for however long before bottling. My theory is if you...