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I work in a commercial brewery and we use peracetic acid in 0.2% dilution for sanitizing almost everything in the brewery except yeast brinks (which we use boiling water for). It's great and we've never had an infection. In 0.2% concentration the only dangers I've found from it is it dries out...

Id recommend doing a sour mash or kettle sour to introduce the lacto then ferment the beer with your sacc strain. You'll save a ton of time and you can control how sour you want your beer a lot easier

You can let that yeast free rise. I've done a few beers with that yeast up to 30 degrees C and had no fusels just tons of delicious esters and phenols. What's your reason for raising the temp? If you're fermenting warm already you shouldn't have any diacetyl. 3711 doesn't floc like crazy so...

Yes you need to worry about pushing oxygen in. To avoid this. we prime the pump and hoses with sanitizer, put a tee on the bottom valve with a valve on the tee. Start the recirc with the valve on the tee open and the tank valve closed then hot swap them (close tee valve, open tank valve...

By crashing I meant we drop the temp to 15 C a day or 2 before to floc the yeast (we do Belgian style beers so our beers get pretty warm during the ferm), yeast out on the day we dry hop, dry hop, start the recirc and turn off the glycol to let it free rise

Too low compared to what efficiency %? My opinion is if you're new and you don't know how efficient your system is, keep brewing, keep a note on your expected efficiency and adjust your grain bills accordingly. Consistency is far more important.

Don't worry about a degree or 2 difference (especially in Fahrenheit). It's splitting hairs. Stirring your mash constantly is overkill in my opinion. I'm a brewer at a commercial brewery. We don't have mash rakes so we stir our mash by hand while mashing in and then don't touch it at all during...

Tettnanger and saaz work well together

If you aren't dumping your yeast before dry hopping, I'd recommend doing that first of all. I'm a pro brewer and what we do at the brewery is crash the beer, dump the yeast, add the hops, recirculate for 8 hours then dump as much of the hops as possible. Had great results this way and it...

Not trying to disagree with you in the fact that it's an uncertainty but I've done numerous beers this way and just base my priming calculations on what the terminal gravity of the beer is. For example, I've done a saison that finished quite dry (1.004 ish). Primed it to 3.4 vol, bottle...

A traditional style dry hopped saison (bone dry, highly carbed, noble hops) blended with Gewurtztraminer grape must. 3711 yeast. Bottled into champagne 750 ml bottles with a healthy pitch of Brett Lambicus. Aged for 6 months.

ESB sound about right

There's no other option during fermentation though. You have no choice but to let it vent CO2. If you're refermenting though, my opinion is that it's better done in a bottle vs a carboy for the exact same reason that bottle conditioned beer vs force carbed beer is night and day better. Depending...

I usually just prime a bit less than I normally would depending on how dry the beer is. Never had any issues.

I've done a few beers with Brett and typically add my pitch a few days before bottling (bottle conditioning) and let it do its thing in the bottles. I know some people like to rack off a beer to a second carboy, pitch the Brett and let it sit for however long before bottling. My theory is if you...

19L of finished citra saison (fermented with 3711) sitting on lychee and a healthy pitch of Brett lambicus

1 whirlfloc tablet (for 19L batch) 15 before flameout. Cold crash 2 days before bottling (bottle conditioning). With higher floc yeasts or stronger beers I make sure to pitch sufficient yeast before bottling

In the future taste test your beer during the fermentation process. If you're still tasting diacetyl towards the end of your ferm, bump up the temp and do a proper diacetyl rest. Diacetyl is a naturally occurring byproduct of fermentation. Naturally, yeast reabsorbes it during the fermentation...

I wrap all my hop and spice additions in cheesecloth. I filter my wort after knock-out through cheesecloth into the fermenter. On top of that I use whirlfloc in all my brews and I get crystal clear beer without cold crashing.

Used this strain to ferment a Belgian golden strong ale recently. 1.5L starter. 1.070 wort down to 1.012 after 1 week. Down to 1.001 after 2 weeks. Fermented around 23 degrees. Bumped up to 25 after 1 and 1/2 weeks. Grain bill was just wyermann's Pilsner and dextrose. Mash temp in the low range...