Recent content by Jinkies

Thanks! Yeah It's easy to overdo it for sure.

I'll post the full design here shortly. This was the basic design for a pump. However I would extrapolate this to the element (with the full knowledge that it requires a 2 pole contactor). I'm using the contactors primarily for safety. I've also read SSR are notarious for leakage and I will...

Thanks. I was thinking that but I guess just trying to be extra safe. The On Off Auto would be for the pump and the element. Obviously at 240, I'd need to run both hot wires through a contactor.

I'm designing up a control panel for an electric BIAB setup. I'm looking for it to have two modes, three with off. On, which is basically just on and then auto where the relay is connected to a automated controller of some sort, craftbeerpi, brewblox, PID controller, etc. I haven't come...

The only issue is you might need to dedicate that plate chiller or CFC to the task. I've never run a steam condenser, but from what I've read the condensed steam has a bunch of off flavors like corn/DMS.

I was looking for the gaskets for those connections. I realize 1.5" TC gaskets will make it sealed for liquid purposes, but I was looking for 19mm or 3/4" gaskets that sealed all the way to the bore. Do you carry those?

Bobby, I understand about not wanting to stock the Frankenstein parts. The Kettle I bought has 1.5" TC flanges so that was the determining factor in my search.

I could swear I saw it a couple of places but this is the only I can find. I might be misunderstanding, but LODO – Accidentalis Brewing about six paragraphs down. It does make some sense to me. A jump to a tighter diameter probably creates turbulence only. But I could see going from 1/2" or...

That's my current plan but I'm definitely up for the opportunity for CIP. It's part of my justification for Tri Clamps. I want my brew day short and relatively painless so I brew more. Although I currently plan on a quick clean ball valve on the pump outlet so that will probably need to be...

Thanks! Another stalker question. I noticed elsewhere you were using the Stout stainless CFC. Can you do one pass chilling with that? Also do you just mate the 1.5" TC x 3/4"/19mm fittings to that directly or do you use a reducer? I know the flanges are the same from the above conversation...

Thanks! I'll keep digging around. Do you use 3/4" fittings with 1.5" flanges currently in your brewery. I was just thinking of going with a mix of 5/8" hose barbs and 1" valves and tees and "living" with the sudden changes in bore size. The consensus seems to be keeping the smallest bore to...

Do gaskets for 1.5" Tri Clamp flanges (2" diameter) with a 3/4" bore exist? I see there's a number of 3/4" tube OD with 1.5" flange parts, tees, valves, hose barbs, out there. I'm wondering if the gaskets for these exist. Note, I'm not talking about the standard Tri-Clamp 1/2" or 3/4" with a...

I've been out of brewing for a while but finally decided to jump back in. I'm building up a new BIAB recirculation system. I'm trying to keep LODO in mind to try once it's all up and running. I know BIAB is hard because of the aeration when pulling the bag, but I've some ideas there or I'll...

A rabbit hole for sure. The process in my my mind only involves one or two hose moves. BIAB mash to whirlpool to fermenter. So I figured since the kettle had TC fittings, I might as well reduce the stacking of TC to camlock or TC to QD.

Yeah. My plan is to keep the tubing be the minimum ID in the system so 1/2" and 3/4" respectively. I was just wondering/worried that a sudden uptick in diameter to 1.375" at the 3 valves from the line diameter of 1/2" and 3/4" might cause some flow issues.