Anyone have an inexpensive flow meter that they use for water that you really like? Im looking to hook one up to my mash tun to measure the volume of strike water transferred over from the HLT prior to mashing.
Flow meter for water
- Thread starter Rob2010SS
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I think you may find it tough to find one that will take strike temps. I just took a browse of a couple I used plus a few more and 130f was the most I saw. I’m sure they exist, but you’ll probably need to open the wallet pretty wide.
OP
OP
Ahhhh yeah I didn't thick about that aspect of it. I'll keep looking and see if anyone comes back with anything
augiedoggy
Well-Known Member
https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Dwyer-...2-0-5-5-GPM-water-1-2-MN-LFM-NIB/152808792842
Unlike the acrylic ones this one is rated for the temps needed and the plastic wont craze.. I use the same one. I also use it for my rims recirc flow rate as well as sparge.
I started with the cheaper ebay chinese ones which worked fine but werent rated for temps. over time the plastic developed crazing from the heat.
Unlike the acrylic ones this one is rated for the temps needed and the plastic wont craze.. I use the same one. I also use it for my rims recirc flow rate as well as sparge.
I started with the cheaper ebay chinese ones which worked fine but werent rated for temps. over time the plastic developed crazing from the heat.
augiedoggy
Well-Known Member
You forgot the link.
OP
OP
Could you post a link to yours?
Soulshine2
Well-Known Member
why cant you just make some marks on the inside of the MLT for gallon and half gallon levels?
Robert65
Major Obvious (recently promoted)
Overthinking. Dipstick.
why do we do half of the things we do to our rigs? Because we can, and it’s friggin awesome!
Soulshine2
Well-Known Member
yes, we do things because we can but seems like such a simple thing to measure water.why do we do half of the things we do to our rigs? Because we can, and it’s friggin awesome!
Sorry, brain fart. Here it is:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/329...chweb0_0,searchweb201602_2,searchweb201603_53
augiedoggy
Well-Known Member
well I dont use mine to measure water but to control and monitor flowrate. It lets me know if im consistently recirculating and sparging at the correct flow rate without dropping out or pumping too quickly which causes channeling and contributed to compacting the grain bed and you guessed it- poor efficiency... it seems to be working for me as I consistently average 91% brewhouse efficiency this way and make very consistent beers.
it also further prevents scorching from stuck flow through my rims although I have flow switches plumbed inline to kill the rims heat if it drops below a certian threshhold as well.
Besides all you need is a simple pot to brew beer but most of us have moved beyond that for whatever reasons we want to justify it to ourselves.. its all where you get your hobby enjoyment and where you want to draw your line in the sand.. for some its the engineering for other the bling to show off or perhaps the cost savings by aquiring beer as cheaply as possible. we all have different driving motivations.
OP
OP
I didn't go into detail on what I was trying to do. My kettles are marked every half gallon and right now it works perfectly. Ive been reading into the low oxygen brewing website and im wanting to implement some if the techniques.
One of these things is underlet the grain. By doing that, my gallon markers are no longer useful in regards to how much water I've transferred over in the mash tun.
I suppose I could figure out how much liquid is held in my hoses and pump, do the math and figure out how much water has been transferred over by watching the HLT which is also marked every half gallon.
However, because im lazy, I thought a flow meter that told me how much water has traveled through it would be easier.
fwiw, I underlet the prescribed volume of strike water which I heat separately in the BK, while the HLT heats up in parallel. So I fill using the volume markings then simply empty the BK on strike.
But if I heated everything up in the HLT, I'd simply recirculate the liquor which ensures the pump and related tubing are filled. Then it's a simple matter of draining down the HLT referencing its volume marking 'til the strike has been accomplished...
Cheers!
But if I heated everything up in the HLT, I'd simply recirculate the liquor which ensures the pump and related tubing are filled. Then it's a simple matter of draining down the HLT referencing its volume marking 'til the strike has been accomplished...
Cheers!
OP
OP
Ahhhh good point. I do have the liquor recirculating so that would work. I didn't think of that.
So if it's recirculating and my volume is down to 19 gallons, I'd simply subtract my strike volume from 19 and transfer to the MT until I hit that volume, because the pump and hoses are full already. Do I have that right?
If you want to get anal you can add 2-4% to account for thermal expansion, but yes, that's the short of it 
Cheers!
[edit] I failed to note that I fill my BK plus its pump and hoses while recirculating so the volume in the kettle is "true". Pretty much the same issue you were worried about...
Cheers!
[edit] I failed to note that I fill my BK plus its pump and hoses while recirculating so the volume in the kettle is "true". Pretty much the same issue you were worried about...
OP
OP
Thanks! I will definitely give that a try next time! Im sure there are tons of threads that I can check out but when it comes to underletting, anything special i need to know about?If you want to get anal you can add 2-4% to account for thermal expansion, but yes, that's the short of it
Cheers!
[edit] I failed to note that I fill my BK plus its pump and hoses while recirculating so the volume in the kettle is "true". Pretty much the same issue you were worried about...
I can't think of anything special aside from remembering you do need to give the mash one good stir after the strike. I typically wait a couple of minutes to let the mash soak up the strike then do a folding stir for about 15-20 seconds then lid it up again and go from there...
Cheers!
Cheers!
Bigdaddyale
Well-Known Member
This how I do it
RPh_Guy
Bringing Sour Back
This looks too good to be true! Is it really this awesome (and inexpensive)?
All of the devices discussed so far measure flow rate, not flow quantity. A flow rate meter would be rather difficult to operate for measuring water volume; a dipstick in the HLT would be way better and easier for that.
Totalizers do exist, however:
https://www.mcmaster.com/3562k22
Also note: the rotameter posted by @augiedoggy needs to be mounted vertically with flow going upwards.
Last edited:
Bigdaddyale
Well-Known Member
I wonder hard it would be to measure the strike water by weight and convert it to volume with one or two of these things. Set the mash tun on a custom made scale.
Not sure what I'm looking at. Load sensor?
If you want to find the coolest way to do pretty much anything on Brew Day, you can't go wrong following @Die_Beerery's space-age brewery.
Cheers!
If you want to find the coolest way to do pretty much anything on Brew Day, you can't go wrong following @Die_Beerery's space-age brewery.
Cheers!
So far it's served me well. As for the price, I'm sure you can find a local source willing to sell you the very same thing at twice the price.
BTW it not only measures flow but also quantity. It's really fun to see how much water you have recirculated cumulatively through the RIMS tube at the end of a complete mash schedule.
As for the price, I'm sure you can find a local source willing to sell you the very same thing at twice the price.
Or the same thing (ish) for three times the price!
How are folks getting from 1/2" NPT to 1/2" BSP for those flow meters without creating long lever moments in the plumbing?
Cheers!
Cheers!
It simply describes the torque potential as rigid plumbing gets extended. A stubby run is less liable to be displaced by incidental contact vs a longer run. In this case the concern is extending a kettle drain with the meter plus transitional adapters...
Cheers!
Cheers!
No, this isn't a fluid dynamics thing, it's about potentially damaging a kettle drain by bumping into an excessively long rigid drain path...
Cheers!
Cheers!
RPh_Guy
Bringing Sour Back
I see.
I was wondering whether I should attach it to the mash tun drain or the pump. Those are the only places with threads in my loop.
The hardware on my mash tun doesn't currently stick out very far. I can barely even get the ball valve handle into the closed position since it's so tight against my cooler.
If I was going to incorporate this meter (which, tbh, is tickling my inner dweeb ) I'd stick an elbow on the output of my MLT drain valve and locate the meter below, ending with the same male camlock I use now, pointing down instead of "out". At least that'd cut the "stick out" down and reduce the odds I'd clip the drain plumbing during a brew day...
Cheers!
) I'd stick an elbow on the output of my MLT drain valve and locate the meter below, ending with the same male camlock I use now, pointing down instead of "out". At least that'd cut the "stick out" down and reduce the odds I'd clip the drain plumbing during a brew day...Cheers!
BSP and NPT are, if you look at their specs, perfectly identical only in the 1/2" size. Every other size is totally incompatible.
RPh_Guy
Bringing Sour Back
I believe there's still a slight difference in thread diameter at the 1/2" size.
If there is it's so minuscule that you can hand-tighten them with no effort whatsoever.
Thread size and pitch are 100% identical and that's what really matters as even a minor difference in pitch would cause the parts to seize after less than a full turn.
Thread size and pitch are 100% identical and that's what really matters as even a minor difference in pitch would cause the parts to seize after less than a full turn.
augiedoggy
Well-Known Member
I second this.. I have many plastic bsp 1/2" threaded things paired up with NPT counterparts including all my tan dc pumps I use at home.
That won't work if you're underletting. Not sure if the OP is doing that, just pointing out that it's not always that simple.
postalbunny
Well-Known Member
Just FYI, avoid these types:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007NHS9M4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I ordered it in an attempt to try and measure water volumes in/out of my HLT "cold"... and it's wildly inaccurate. Useless really... and it won't take temps you want.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007NHS9M4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I ordered it in an attempt to try and measure water volumes in/out of my HLT "cold"... and it's wildly inaccurate. Useless really... and it won't take temps you want.
This is my first time ordering through AliExpress. Is shipping as slow as it appears? Currently it’s showing it’s due within “55 days, 8 hours, 35 minutes, 22 seconds”. I guess maybe they make up for in speed with precision?
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