Do you need a 1 off Stainless part built for your system? Let's discuss it.

[Jaybird]

@Ruint here is your custom adjustable sparge system sir...

Enjoy! Its shipping today

Cheers
Jay

 

[Jaybird]

And yet another custom build we did today.

Cheers
Jay

 

[Ruint]

That should definitely do it. Can't wait to put it to the test! Thanks for taking care of this sooo fast Jay! You're awesome!!!

 

[Jaybird]

That should definitely do it. Can't wait to put it to the test! Thanks for taking care of this sooo fast Jay! You're awesome!!!

My pleasure! It was a fun little build! The guys in the shop are like, What is this for? lol

Honestly I really like the part idea and I think the squeeze to hold idea is going to open up the doors to a lot of other parts.

Cheers
Jay

 

[johnwpowell]

Thanks for the 1.5" triclamp with a hole for an airlock stopper. Exactly what I needed. You should just sell this part on your site. I think many others would like it.

I usually use the blow off cane you make for the brew bucket and then switch to an s lock with vodka in it while I cold crash. This part makes it so much easier.

The quality exceeds my expectation. I was expecting something drilled on a bench press but the part was obviously professionally milled. Very very pleased!

If anyone is interested you can see it on my instagram feed.

 

[ba-brewer]

I would like a round disk made of fine mesh stainless that will fit inside your "Keg Dry Hopping Canister/ Filter Thing-a-ma-Jig". The big holes on the top allow hop dust to escape and clog my flow control faucets.

A different lid with the same fine mesh as the canister covering the holes would be OK too.

 

[Jwin]

I would like a round disk made of fine mesh stainless that will fit inside your "Keg Dry Hopping Canister/ Filter Thing-a-ma-Jig". The big holes on the top allow hop dust to escape and clog my flow control faucets.

A different lid with the same fine mesh as the canister covering the holes would be OK too.

Have you tried trimming your dip tube? Just a half inch off of it can make a huge difference in amount of crud pulled up. Most cornies are made to have the dip tube at the very lowest point, which means it will keep sucking up trub and hop debris.

 

[ba-brewer]

Have you tried trimming your dip tube? Just a half inch off of it can make a huge difference in amount of crud pulled up. Most cornies are made to have the dip tube at the very lowest point, which means it will keep sucking up trub and hop debris.

It happens at the end of the keg, I think the stuff is floating on the top of the beer.

 

[milldoggy]

I would like a round disk made of fine mesh stainless that will fit inside your "Keg Dry Hopping Canister/ Filter Thing-a-ma-Jig". The big holes on the top allow hop dust to escape and clog my flow control faucets.

A different lid with the same fine mesh as the canister covering the holes would be OK too.

I had some 300 micron mesh. I use food grade silicon and glued it in.

Now the arbor fab canister, although more, have the same mesh in the lid or no holes(can't remember in my Saturday night state). I have them for keg hopping and worth the cost over the cheap Chinese ones I also have. So quick fix, buy a good canister from them

 

[Jwin]

A good read here
I'm sure jaybird could hook you up with one of these
http://scottjanish.com/my-favorite-way-to-dry-hop-loose-in-primary-and-kegs/

 

[SandstoneCityBrew]

Jay, I'm in need of a part for the brewery I'm at. We just got our grain handling system in place but it's lacking a piece and the company is trying to charge us an arm and a leg for a custom build.

Basically I just need a stainless part that has a 4" triclamp fitting on one end and straight pipe on the other end to connect to our auger discharge. Let me know what you can do for me.

The ID of the discharge tubing looks to be around 3.75".

View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1502820519.806258.jpg

 

[Jaybird]

Jay, I'm in need of a part for the brewery I'm at. We just got our grain handling system in place but it's lacking a piece and the company is trying to charge us an arm and a leg for a custom build.

Basically I just need a stainless part that has a 4" triclamp fitting on one end and straight pipe on the other end to connect to our auger discharge. Let me know what you can do for me.

The ID of the discharge tubing looks to be around 3.75".

View attachment 410881

So you need a 4" TC ferrule with a 3-4" long tube welded to it to connect that plastic pipe too? 4" TC should be 4" ID let me know for sure on that measurement
do you need clamps and gaskets as well?

Cheers
Jay

 

[SandstoneCityBrew]

So you need a 4" TC ferrule with a 3-4" long tube welded to it to connect that plastic pipe too? 4" TC should be 4" ID let me know for sure on that measurement
do you need clamps and gaskets as well?

Cheers
Jay

I'll double check tomorrow, but I already know 4" is wrong. Just got back from vacation. Brain isn't ready yet. Do not need clamp and gasket.

 

[SandstoneCityBrew]

Jay it looks like they are going to supply us with the part we need after all. Thanks anyways brother. I'll keep you in mind for the next time!

 

[Jaybird]

Jay it looks like they are going to supply us with the part we need after all. Thanks anyways brother. I'll keep you in mind for the next time!

You bet man! Thanks for think of us!

Cheers
Jay

 

[SanPancho]

J- trying to find a two port manifold for a DIY o2 assembly. i'd like 1" tubing with two short "instrument" ports so we can pop in a thermometer and our o2 stone laterally to the wort flow.

and maybe a 1" to 3/4" eccentric reducer?

 

[Jaybird]

J- trying to find a two port manifold for a DIY o2 assembly. i'd like 1" tubing with two short "instrument" ports so we can pop in a thermometer and our o2 stone laterally to the wort flow.

and maybe a 1" to 3/4" eccentric reducer?

PM inbound.

Cheers
Jay

 

[PsychoBiter]

PM sent

 

[Alt]

Jay, How about something like what's shown in post #452, except use a thick lock nut in lieu of the TC cap - o-ring side up. Replace the tubing and bulkhead fittings with a removable Camlock F, 2 hi-temp o-rings and another lock nut The use will be as a recirculation flow diverter underneath a LoDo mash cap, a.k.a. SS cake pan.

 

[Jaybird]

Jay, How about something like what's shown in post #452, except use a thick lock nut in lieu of the TC cap - o-ring side up. Replace the tubing and bulkhead fittings with a removable Camlock F, 2 hi-temp o-rings and another lock nut The use will be as a recirculation flow diverter underneath a LoDo mash cap, a.k.a. SS cake pan.

Alt
Post up a picture so I can make sure were on the same page.

Cheers
Jay

 

[Alt]

Let's see if this illustration helps. Still learning this version of TurboCad, so haven't yet drawn the recess for the o-ring. That should be on the outer surface of the hex nut, facing away from the disc. The gap between the nut and the disc is 1/4".

I also need two 0-rings and and a Camlock F as loose parts, which I'll use to sandwich a cake pan between the welded nut assembly and the Camlock F.

View attachment Mash Recirc Fitting.pdf

 

[SandstoneCityBrew]

What would a 1.5" triclamp 90 degree elbow with a welded on corny keg gas post run me?

 

[SandstoneCityBrew]

Here's my ****ty attempt at a drawing. View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1505314376.499547.jpg

 

[Jaybird]

Here's my ****ty attempt at a drawing. View attachment 413895

Ha Ha Ha. Looks good to me man! PM inbound.

Cheers
Jay

 

[Weezy]

Open fermenter!

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showpost.php?p=7256769&postcount=28

 

[Crushdaley]

I'm looking for a Thermowell that will fit in a corny keg liquid out dip tube hole and is flared like the dip tube so I can install the post without the poppet and I can run my temp Probe in it and the keg will still be sealed and able to hold pressure. I didn't read this whole thread so if this has been cover already I apologize.

 

[schematix]

I'm looking for a Thermowell that will fit in a corny keg liquid out dip tube hole and is flared like the dip tube so I can install the post without the poppet and I can run my temp Probe in it and the keg will still be sealed and able to hold pressure. I didn't read this whole thread so if this has been cover already I apologize.

how about a corny lid with a welded in thermowell? jay built me 3, and i think more for someone else.

 

[Crushdaley]

I was hoping to get about a 16" Thermowell or longer and I wasnt sure the lid would be easy to close with this long of a thermowell

 

[FunkedOut]

How about a corny lid with a QD male welded on?
http://www.norcalbrewingsolutions.com/store/Quick_Disconnect_Male_to_Half_Inch_NPT_Female.html

Then attach an NPT thermowell to a female QD.
Close the lid, then insert thermowell.

How much for a lid with the male QD welded on?

eta: What about welding an 18" thermowell to a barbed QD female?
http://www.norcalbrewingsolutions.com/store/Quick_Disconnect_Female_to_Half_Inch_Barbed.html

How much for the lid/thermowell combo?

 

[schematix]

I was hoping to get about a 16" Thermowell or longer and I wasnt sure the lid would be easy to close with this long of a thermowell

I don't have the lid in front of me but if i remember correctly the thermowell can only be about 6-7" long otherwise it contacts the side of the keg when you try to put in the lid in.

You may wish to consider if it really needs to be 16" long. That puts it almost to the bottom of the keg.