Brew-Boss Rebuild

[ingchr1]

I have one of the original Brew-Boss controllers and use it in a two vessel system (Brew Boss thread I started). My MLT had a normal thermometer and I wanted to change it over to a digital readout. At first I was just going to get a controller and install it in a small box on its own, but then I would have had two boxes sitting on my brew cart. So I thought why not just put it all in a single control panel. Maybe this post will help someone who wants to change theirs up or is thinking about getting the Brew-Boss DIY kit.

Here's the original Brew-Boss controller:



Here's the control panel I built:





The tablet I use:



I was able to reuse the parts from the original as follows:

• Extended the temperature probe wires
• Extended the 9VDC input power wires to the controller
• To use the original mounting holes on the heat sink I had to drill and tap new holes to move the SSRs (they were covering the holes)
• The cable gland for the 120V cables were threaded into the original box, no nut on the other side. Since I only needed one 120V cable I used the gland nut from the other 120V to secure it in place.
• I was able to use the original mounting for the controller and LCD by attaching studs to the enclosure using JB Weld

I changed the input power from 240V 3-wire and 120V to 240V 4-wire only.

I added the following items:

• Input Power Breaker
• 5A Fuse for the 120V circuit
• Lights for Power, Heater and Pump
• Switches for Pump and Heater
• Mash Temperature Indication
• Contactor for Heater
• New Panel Overlay
• New Power Supply (the original was an open board, through my own fault it got damaged and let its magic blue smoke out)
• New control wires to the SSRs. I used pre-made breadboard wires. You could reuse the original connectors with longer wires if needed.

The contactor provided the biggest issue. When the contactor was turned on/off the LCD did not like it. It would blank out or scramble. The controller still worked though. To solve the issue I installed a snubber (Quencharc 0.1uf 100ohm) across the coil of the contactor.

 

[ingchr1]

Additional photos of the control panel:

(Disregard the second power supply. During my troubleshooting of the LCD issue its something I thought I needed, now I got a spare)

 

[ingchr1]

Photos of the overall brewery:

 

[ingchr1]

Here's my step file template for two vessel no sparge. So far I've run this through a wet run, I'll see if any changes are needed during an actual brew session.

 

[R_Horn]

Really Cool!

 

[mcgimpkins]

So from looking at your step file process it looks like you are using the Brew Boss to heat your strike, in the BK, transfer to the MT and mash. During the mash your are just holding the mash, not recirculating it, in addition you are monitoring the mash temp, not heating it if it is too cool. Then after mashing, you skip a mashout and transfer the wort to the BK to be boiled. Do I have all this correct?

Have you found any advantages/disadvantages to doing this over more traditional BIAB Brew Boss method of mashing all in the same kettle while recirculating? Since you are running a 2 kettle systems, have you tried brewing and recirculating like the Blichmann BrewEasy? If so how did that work out?

 

[ingchr1]

So from looking at your step file process it looks like you are using the Brew Boss to heat your strike, in the BK, transfer to the MT and mash. During the mash your are just holding the mash, not recirculating it, in addition you are monitoring the mash temp, not heating it if it is too cool. Then after mashing, you skip a mashout and transfer the wort to the BK to be boiled. Do I have all this correct?

Yes

Have you found any advantages/disadvantages to doing this over more traditional BIAB Brew Boss method of mashing all in the same kettle while recirculating? Since you are running a 2 kettle systems, have you tried brewing and recirculating like the Blichmann BrewEasy? If so how did that work out?

I have only done traditional three vessel brewing (when I used gas) and this. When I went from gas to electric I reused my cooler MLT and built the HT with the BoilCoil. I got in on the Chapman kickstarter and replaced my cooler with the Thermobarrel. Since the Thermobarrel is insulated there is no need to add heat during the rest. The mash temperature indication is to ensure I hit my strike temperature. If heat is needed I would transfer water back to the HT, heat, transfer back to MLT, then mash in. Recircing the current system would just complicate things. I would either need two pumps or one pump and gravity, and all would need to be balanced to ensure the element stays covered. The only viable option I can see, with the equipment I have, would be to HERMS. Add a coil through the lid of the MLT. One thing I like about an insulated MLT is that I can just leave it and take care of other things during the rest.

The no sparge is for two reasons. One is I would need another vessel to do it (could be a simple bucket) the other and more important is to save time on the brew day.

I added the bag to the MLT to make clean up easier and not have to move the Thermobarrel for cleaning (it weighs 30lbs empty and would definitely get dinged up). Just hoist the bag out to a bucket then scrub the barrel in place. So effectively I am BIAB, just with two vessels.

If I was starting from scratch I would probably just single vessel BIAB. It's not possible to BIAB in my kettle due to the BoilCoil and it's only 9 gallons.

 

[mcgimpkins]

How do you like your Thermobarrel? Brulosophy wrote a glowing review of them. Have you been happy with everything?

I've been looking at their UniVessel Fermenter. For a 14 gallon SS fermentor they are pretty cheap.

 

[ingchr1]

How do you like your Thermobarrel? Brulosophy wrote a glowing review of them. Have you been happy with everything?

I've been looking at their UniVessel Fermenter. For a 14 gallon SS fermentor they are pretty cheap.

I've only been able to do a few brews with it, but so far so good. I did have a corrosion issue with the bottom port on it (discussed in this thread starting on post #323 and going to the end of the thread). At the time their customer service was very good and it did sound like they addressed it with their supplier. I did change the set up of the false bottom (also discussed in that same thread). Note that I just checked out their site and it appears they have also made a change from what they originally had (hard pipe) to something similar to my setup.

 

[ingchr1]

I've reconfigured from the two vessel no sparge to a single vessel recirc: Single Vessel eBIAB in 11 Gallon Bayou Classic with BoilCoil. The panel remains unchanged.