BIAB Infusion Step Mashing

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Preeway

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I did my first BIAB this weekend and my calculated efficiency was around 65%. I've been reading a lot about the infusion method for step mashing and I'm curious how many others do it, how many rests you use, and at what temps. Also, does it help improve overall efficiency or is it used more for a better quality outcome for the wort?
 
If you were looking to improve your efficiency, I would first look at your grain crush. With BIAB, you don't need to be worried about a stuck sparge so you can grind finer than you would with a standard mash tun set up. The smaller particle size of a finer crush will allow for faster water penetration and more starches dissolving quicker for the enzymes to act upon. Next, make sure you stir your grains into the water vigorously to break up any 'dough balls' which may form as you pour the grains into the water. I stir the grain for a good 3 to 4 minutes to make sure that the grains are well wetted.

For the most part with today's malts the need for step mashing is a disputed topic. There is less of a need for the various rest temperatures for protein breakdown or acid formation. You can read a bit more about the rest temperatures at http://howtobrew.com/book/section-3/the-methods-of-mashing/multi-rest-mashing. If you are set on trying this, try searching the forum for 'BIAB step mashing' for several posts which describe how others have done step mashing with BIAB mashing methods.
 
If step mashing doesn't help efficiency, does it help overall quality of the finished product? I think I can improve my efficiency through the mill grind and using a thinner mash. But I'm looking at ways to maximize the quality of the final product too.
 
I will side with Oginme here in that your grind should be number one on your list of things to focus on. If you buy pre-milled grains you are subject to the grind that particular source offers which leads to little or no control on your part. Then the next source you order or buy from has a different gap setting and a different grist size. I am sure you are going to already guess how to control this......yep, own your own mill. Only way to be really consistent. Or at least use the same source to gain some consistency even if your numbers are not all that high. Old saying...."Chase consistency, not efficiency".

I think you'll be perfectly fine to do single infusion mashes once you get your process down pat. Work on the grind and see how that impacts your numbers.

I honestly don't think step mashes are going to help much with your final product. I am friends with guys in a commercial brewery who do nothing but single infusion mashes.
 
I do step infusions BIAB, I raise the grains when heat is being added, not out of the kettle just off the bottom, and yes my efficiency went up, not by much but it went up. my product greatly improved, my PH was improved and my trub reduced. my beers are clearer, my biggest improvement in efficiency was to sparge the grains before squeezing. I set them in a steamer basket and press with a lid from a pot. O use a normal grind and hit target now.
 
Based on what I've read, step infusions aren't done so much to improve efficiency but more so to increase the quality of the wort and thereby the quality of the beer. Thanks for the feedback.
 
I do step infusions BIAB, I raise the grains when heat is being added, not out of the kettle just off the bottom, and yes my efficiency went up, not by much but it went up. my product greatly improved, my PH was improved and my trub reduced. my beers are clearer, my biggest improvement in efficiency was to sparge the grains before squeezing. I set them in a steamer basket and press with a lid from a pot. O use a normal grind and hit target now.

You present a good case. What temps do you step from/to and for how long each?
 
You present a good case. What temps do you step from/to and for how long each?
ok check out the chart on this page
http://www.betterbeerblog.com/index.php/2011/08/22/homebrew-equipment-steam-infused-mash/
I dough in at 96, 10 minutes do 112 for 15 then 130 for 15, and then to mash temp
I started this with a 3 vessel system, my thought is YES malts are highly modified, but this is my hobby and I have the extra time so why not. You see if commercial brewers pushed to get higher modified malts to save money, does this mean it makes a better beer?, and why not use the enzymes we have in the malt anyway.
I am not doing this to save money, r time, I am doing this to make better beer. So why not. If I am in a hurry, I do a single rest infusion, but you knw what, I just dedicate a day to brewing and do as I want to get the best product possible. It does show also
 
You present a good case. What temps do you step from/to and for how long each?

After all these years, I am still evolving my brewing, I do experimental brew according to what I read several times a year. I figure I can always learn more.and will try anything that makes sense. and some that do not, such as my starter technique. but if they work, and my beer is better, then I do it. Remember though, we all have different systems so what can have big effect on one may not be big on another. Step mashing is one of the things that I have used on several systems, but again I am a lager head so I like clean clear beers.
 
ok check out the chart on this page
http://www.betterbeerblog.com/index.php/2011/08/22/homebrew-equipment-steam-infused-mash/
I dough in at 96, 10 minutes do 112 for 15 then 130 for 15, and then to mash temp
I started this with a 3 vessel system, my thought is YES malts are highly modified, but this is my hobby and I have the extra time so why not. You see if commercial brewers pushed to get higher modified malts to save money, does this mean it makes a better beer?, and why not use the enzymes we have in the malt anyway.
I am not doing this to save money, r time, I am doing this to make better beer. So why not. If I am in a hurry, I do a single rest infusion, but you knw what, I just dedicate a day to brewing and do as I want to get the best product possible. It does show also


What the heck.....I am going to try this. Add to that I have the "ideal" setup with a stainless mesh Arbor Fab basket that holds the grain bed off the bottom and no nylon bag to potentially scorch during heat application from a propane burner. Why not try it, cant lose more than an hour or so anyway. An hour brewing beer is a bonus hour anyway in my "zen" place as I call it. Might teach an old dog a new trick to boot!
 
What the heck.....I am going to try this. Add to that I have the "ideal" setup with a stainless mesh Arbor Fab basket that holds the grain bed off the bottom and no nylon bag to potentially scorch during heat application from a propane burner. Why not try it, cant lose more than an hour or so anyway. An hour brewing beer is a bonus hour anyway in my "zen" place as I call it. Might teach an old dog a new trick to boot!
first time I tried it I noticed less trub and less chill haze
 
After all these years, I am still evolving my brewing, I do experimental brew according to what I read several times a year. I figure I can always learn more.and will try anything that makes sense. and some that do not, such as my starter technique. but if they work, and my beer is better, then I do it. Remember though, we all have different systems so what can have big effect on one may not be big on another. Step mashing is one of the things that I have used on several systems, but again I am a lager head so I like clean clear beers.

I was thinking of trying step infusions with a Cream Ale since I cant seem to keep them in supply during the summer. That way I can compare the beers with a same recipe Cream Ale I have conditioning now that was done single infusion. This will give me a heads up comparison kinda like Brulosophy!
 
"I dough in at 96, 10 minutes do 112 for 15 then 130 for 15, and then to mash temp"

I did this a couple of weeks ago and in the finished beer the flavors were really good, better than I have been able to do before.

Unfortunately, I didn't heed the part about pulling the bag up when heating. Oops, the bag melted and had to filter out 32 lbs of grains by hand from 15 gallons. My wife saved the day.

After that ordeal, I ordered a 400 Micron stainless steel piece from Chad at Arbor fabricating.

I posted to this thread to say what great results I had, and to give a mention for Chad at Arbor Fabricating. Least expensive source and excellent quality.
 
Just had the carbed version from a keg.

Definitely the best beer i have ever brewed. Among the best beers I have ever had.

To clarify, I usually do 9.5 or ten gallons BIAB in a fifteen gallon pot.

The day the bag burned and split, I was doing one of my favorite recipes, a doppelbock I have done before.

I like malty beers and am not a hophead. This recipe that the bag burned and split had an ounce of magnum at 12.4% for an hour, and an ounce of Hallertau for 20 minutes.

Also, the recipe was to net out 9.5 gallons into kegs, and I only put 6.5/7 into kegs. 5 in one keg, ummm probably 1.5/1.7 into another keg which I am now drinking from.

This was 31.75 lbs of grain into mash, with a SG of 1.080 into the fermenter, and 1.022 into the keg.

I am semiretired and have the time ( I usually do a 90 minute boil) and think I will not brew again unless I am doing step infusion mashes.

Efficiency? Don't know, don't care that much. I just care if I really like the beer. I really like this method and am absolutely loving the beer.

I brewed a Marzan today using these steps, and put 11.25 gallons into two fermenters. Will post how that turns out.

Note: do not be afraid to use a polyester bag, just make sure you pull it up when you have the burner on as previously mentioned in this thread. I used the stainless steel fabricated unit today, and it worked well. However, it is rigid and a hell of a lot harder to swing out of the kettle to put on a five gallon bucket to drain. I must find a solution to that. Anytime you get something, you also give up something.:yes:

Edited to Add:

The local homebrew shop crushes my grains, then I condition them and run them through another crusher set at .250. I set Brewsmith at 70 % efficiency and usually hit my SG or higher.
 
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