TheGeek's Keezer

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TheGeek

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** Adding a huge thanks to all the folks who have posted their trials and tribulations, notes, How-Tos's and any other useful info on building these things. You have all been incredibly helpful!**

And so it begins...



Got this scratch and dent from my local home depot on the cheap. It's a Sunbeam 7.2 ft3 and I can't wait to start this project. More pics as I take them.

I am ordering a kit from kegconnection.com soon, Once it gets here, I'll add those parts to the list.

Tools List
Circular Saw (adjustable angle)
Square edge
Quick clamps
Level
Power Driver/Drill
Caulk Gun

Parts List
KegConnection.com 2 tap, 2 keg Standard Fridge Conversion Kit $264.95
(includes 5# CO2 cylinder, dual regulators and all hoses/fittings)
Johnson Controls Analog Thermostat $59.95
^^They were shipped free! ^^
Sunbeam 7.2 ft3 Chest Freezer scratch'n'dent $150
4 corner fasteners 3/4x3/4 $2
1 can spray foam insulation $4
3 section 1x6x4 finishing wood $21
Sanding sponge $3
0.5 pint Stain $5
0.5 pint Poly Semi-gloss sealant $6
Sponge brush $2
Liquid Nails Heavy Duty $3
1" spade bit $5
Foam board insulation $9
Weatherstripping $3

Total: $552.90



Quick snap of the parts I purchased. Running total for cost is at the top.

The Process

I bought this scratch and dent, so I tested to make sure the thing ran first. It has a warranty but I'd hate to start taking it apart or worse, finish the project and find out it doesn't work.
Remove the covers for the hinges, these simply snap off. Put nails into the hinges so they can't swing open and unscrew 3 bolts.


The seal for the lid simply snaps out. This not only makes it easy to remove, but leaves it in a reusable condition for the final steps of the process.


Take measurements and assemble collar. Mine was 34x22.5 so I cut 2 pieces of each length. I measured the top of the freezer to ensure a good fit, not the bottom of the lid. They should both have the same measurements but you never know. I cut 45 degree angles in each end and a single 1x1 piece to liquid nail and screw into. In hind sight, I should have used a larger piece, like 2x2 because one split when I drilled a screw into it. You can't tell from the outside, but I know its there.

A note on cutting. Its much easier to make a 90 cut by hand than 2 45s that will match up... I went out and got a circular saw because the miter box 1) didnt fit the 1x6 I used and 2) My attempt at using the box to make 2 cuts was a miserable failure.

Liquid nail 2 sections together at a time and leave both pieces to dry, I waited 24 hours just to be sure. The following day I liquid nailed the two pieces together and waited another 24 hours to screw into the corner pieces.



Here it is. Its not the prettiest thing in the world, but it'll hold!



Time to drill. The shanks I'm using call for a 1" hole. Remember to drill guide holes with a smaller bit before using a spade bit. Make sure its square to the surface. Also remember when measuring that the actual hole when drilled will take up a half inch on either side of where you mark, this is only really important if you want a set amount of space between the faucets. (I left enough room in between to eventually add a nitrogen tap since my freezer will hold 3 kegs)



Here it is with the first coat of stain. The stain I'm using calls to be wiped off after 15-20 minutes on the wood. and 4-6 hours to dry between coats. This picture is with 1 coat, another coat will be applied before sealing. After sealant dried, i buffed surface with a Tshirt to smooth it out.



Before going on to insulating, I cut 2 sections of 2" wide board and liquid nailed them to the back of the collar at the points where they will be connected to the hinges to help support the weight and strengthen the collar.

To be continued...
 
Nice score on the freezer. I have a similar model from Sams Club that we use for, well, freezing.

I will pickup a secondary for the homebrew when I find another dented one on the cheap.
 
I have the same freezer and want to do pretty much the same thing. Can't wait to see the rest of the parts list and finished product
 
Updated the price list, this should be final. Hope to have this complete and the final steps and photos posted in the next week.
 
Very Nice! Do you plan to add more taps & kegs later on? I have seen some of those keezers hold 4-5 kegs.
 
Yup. Thats the intent of the 2 taps being so far apart, plan to put a nitro tap in the middle eventually.
 


Now that it's stained and sealed, I am applying the styrofoam insulation. This is 1x4 sections of 3/4 inch foam. A stack of 6 pieces was only $9 and I have alot spare for other projects. I cut them to fit and liquid nailed them to the boards.



Adding 90degree brackets in each corner to attach the lid to the collar. I also ran a bead of liquid nails along the collar before attaching the lid.



Now I am spraying expanding insulation into all of the crevices to help seal this up.



Staple gunning the weather stripping to the base of the lid.

After this, I sat the lid down and made sure it was lined up with the freezer. Finally I screwed the hinges into the collar on the back.



Done!!!

Now I just need my plumbing to show up...




So here it is completed, finally! There is MORE than enough room in this bad boy for 4 5gal cornies, if you wanted to get really space savvy, a 3gallon or two might fit on the hump. I'm really happy with how it turned out and have been enjoying its use regularly!
 
Looking good. What helped you to decide if you wanted the collar to be attached to the lid vs attached to the bottom chest? I know it's a preference thing but just curious why people decide one way or the other. I decided to mount mine to the chest freezer to keep the weight off 6 shanks and faucets off of the lid hinges and it overall seemed easier to me. Just my preference.
 
Well, the big thing was not making lifting kegs in and out any harder. But I also thought Having the faucets and lines running along the top would make it easier to work on without having to be hunched over into the freezer. That was the theory anyway. We'll see how it works in practice.
 
Well, the big thing was not making lifting kegs in and out any harder. But I also thought Having the faucets and lines running along the top would make it easier to work on without having to be hunched over into the freezer. That was the theory anyway. We'll see how it works in practice.

I see. There are advantages with each way. I just picked the way that seemed easiest to me to build. The hinges on my freezer where at a size that made it far more easy to put the collar on the chest rather than the lid. I have seen some keezers around here where their are dual hinges to allow the lid and collar to both move independently.
 
Here's the first pour! I know, it's a little short, but I was leaving soon so I only had a half glass. heh.


 

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