Super Simple 15G Plastic Conical

I got 2 roto-mold 15G conicals, 1 1/2 polypropolene banjo valves and 1 1/2 nipples. I haven't found the smaller banjo valves you are using for racking ports but my local homebrew shop can hook me up with SS at a good price. I'm gonna make a trub/yeast catcher and see where i need to place the racking valve for a 'typical' 1.060+ brew before i cut a hole in the conical. I'm not doing anything extra to seal the lid. I think that no 'wild yeast' is going to make it through the threaded connection from conical lid, and if the belgian brewers can brew in opent tanks, then I can trust that the CO2 blanket on top of the wort is enough to keep my beer from harm in this conical.

KevinFettig said:

On Sale Now No Shipping
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=270685414452&ssPageName=ADME:L:OU:US:1123

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Has anyone used one of these valves yet. Mine arrived yesterday and as I suspected the flow is reduced quite a bit, looks like about 3/4. It's a good looking valve, but I'm afraid it's going to have problems with clogging.
I'm thinking about sealing my lid and running a blow off tube into a sanitized bucket with an airlock to catch the krausen. If I extend the blow off tube down close to the surface of the beer I can reduce the trub and top crop yeast at the same time. I thought of putting some boiled or distilled water in the blow off bucket. Anyone see any drawbacks to this idea.

rod734 said:

Has anyone used one of these valves yet. Mine arrived yesterday and as I suspected the flow is reduced quite a bit, looks like about 3/4.

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Haven't used mine yet but if you look at the PDF linked in the ebay auction, the flow port is just shy of 1" (.96). Hoping that is large enough.

sensibull said:

Haven't used mine yet but if you look at the PDF linked in the ebay auction, the flow port is just shy of 1" (.96). Hoping that is large enough.

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I think I will go ahead a put together a yeast catcher, that should help with the clogging possibility.

I'm thinking that I may build a 1/2 to 1 gallon yeast catcher and maybe then I would be able to forgo the racking port. Less ports = less valves and threads to clean and sanitize.

rod734 said:

I think I will go ahead a put together a yeast catcher, that should help with the clogging possibility.

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FSR402 said:

I'm thinking that I may build a 1/2 to 1 gallon yeast catcher and maybe then I would be able to forgo the racking port. Less ports = less valves and threads to clean and sanitize.

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I don't know if this was covered. As far as chilling. Can you make a SS chiller, connect it to the lid, then have say a drink cooler filled with ice water and a pond pump, hook it up to a temp controller and run Ice water through the chiller? The cooler should keep it cool for a few days.

CoalCracker said:

I don't know if this was covered. As far as chilling. Can you make a SS chiller, connect it to the lid, then have say a drink cooler filled with ice water and a pond pump, hook it up to a temp controller and run Ice water through the chiller? The cooler should keep it cool for a few days.

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Yes that would work.

rod734 said:

Has anyone used one of these valves yet. Mine arrived yesterday and as I suspected the flow is reduced quite a bit, looks like about 3/4. It's a good looking valve, but I'm afraid it's going to have problems with clogging.
I'm thinking about sealing my lid and running a blow off tube into a sanitized bucket with an airlock to catch the krausen. If I extend the blow off tube down close to the surface of the beer I can reduce the trub and top crop yeast at the same time. I thought of putting some boiled or distilled water in the blow off bucket. Anyone see any drawbacks to this idea.

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You want something like this: http://www.brewershardware.com/1-Tri-Clover-Butterfly-Valve.html

Ball valves are better at controlling flow. Butterfly valves, or dump valves, are used on fermenters as outlets.

This is what I am going with:

http://www.ohiovalleyag.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=48_49&products_id=2112

+

http://www.brewershardware.com/1-1.5-Tri-Clover-X-1.5-Male-NPT.html

+

http://www.brewershardware.com/1-5-Tri-Clover-90-Elbow-TC15ELL90.html

+

http://www.brewershardware.com/1.5-Tri-Clover-Butterfly-Valve-Squeeze-Trigger-TC10VBFVST1.html

And two of these:
http://www.brewershardware.com/1.5-Tri-Clover-Gasket-PTFE.html

and these:
http://www.brewershardware.com/1.5-Tri-Clover-Clamp.html

I will order parts for the racking/sample outlet after my first batch. I want to get a good idea where my trub line will sit on an average batch. Plus, with all the stainless triclamp stuff I snagged, its pricey already. Had to do it though just because I could.

Ok can ask a dumb question?

The yeast catcher... Is that only going to be installed when you get ready to drain the fermenter?

If so could you use a glass jug that has threads on it?... We have a local dairy that sells in glass myths still and I think they have a thread on the outside of them...

Not sure off it would work our not...but I can get them in half gallon and quart sizes...

It would sure be nice to see when the traub stops and the yeast start s... And then again when the yeast stops and the brew begins....

Would that work our no?
Sorry I'm a new DIY er and am thinking out loud...

crazyseany said:

Ok can ask a dumb question?

The yeast catcher... Is that only going to be installed when you get ready to drain the fermenter?

If so could you use a glass jug that has threads on it?... We have a local dairy that sells in glass myths still and I think they have a thread on the outside of them...

Not sure off it would work our not...but I can get them in half gallon and quart sizes...

It would sure be nice to see when the traub stops and the yeast start s... And then again when the yeast stops and the brew begins....

Would that work our no?
Sorry I'm a new DIY er and am thinking out loud...

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Goes on during fermentation- cleaned/sanitized and put back on for secondary. Collects entire time during fermentation and secondary.

Sent from my iPhone using HB Talk

crazyseany said:

Ok can ask a dumb question?

The yeast catcher... Is that only going to be installed when you get ready to drain the fermenter?

If so could you use a glass jug that has threads on it?... We have a local dairy that sells in glass myths still and I think they have a thread on the outside of them...

Not sure off it would work our not...but I can get them in half gallon and quart sizes...

It would sure be nice to see when the traub stops and the yeast start s... And then again when the yeast stops and the brew begins....

Would that work our no?
Sorry I'm a new DIY er and am thinking out loud...

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The idea behind the catcher is that it's screwed on and the valve is left open while you're filling the conical and while it's fermenting. The yeast and trub will settle down the cone, thru the open valve and into the catcher. Once you close the valve and remove the catcher you have all (most) the yeast and trub in the catcher. Now if you wanted to hook it back up you would need to empty, clean, sanitize and purge it with CO2 first. Or you would end up adding a bunch of O2 into the beer.

FSR402 said:

I'm thinking that I may build a 1/2 to 1 gallon yeast catcher and maybe then I would be able to forgo the racking port. Less ports = less valves and threads to clean and sanitize.

Click to expand...

I was thinking 1 quart and two dumps.. first after a day or two to dump mostly trub and second at the end of fermentation (no secondary) to harvest yeast. do you think 1 qt is too small?

chrisdb said:

I was thinking 1 quart and two dumps.. first after a day or two to dump mostly trub and second at the end of fermentation (no secondary) to harvest yeast. do you think 1 qt is too small?

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Depends on size! I use 1qt for my 15 gallon fermenter! + depends how much junk u let in the fermenter after the boil!!

Sent from my iPhone using HB Talk

Almost ready to water test it. I just assembled it and put it on the fermentation chamber.

This is SICK!!!! I love it!

Would someone tell me the vertical dimensions with and without yeast-catcher attached?

"All your home brew are belong to us!"

Is that going to be strong enough? You're basically using two skinny strips of wood at the middle, to support the entire weight of your brew. I'd probably want to reinforce the wood with a metal bracket (piece of rebar?) affixed to the wood across the front and back.

I'd hate to open the fridge on day 7 or 8 and find out that the wood broke in half and your batch came crashing down.

It does look sexy though, hanging-up in there.

You could probably use some 2 x 4s to support your shelf just for peace of mind security...

I have a couple of 30 gallon tanks like this with stands That I am going to likely get rid of. I even have brass bushings and 2" ball valves to go with them. I should get some photos and info up in classifieds.

I plan on adding some 1x2 or 2x2 as braces. Originally I was going to use 3/4" plywood for the support. The piece I have is too small. So I dioubled up some 1/2". Even with just the two sheets, it is pretty strong now. I am trying to come up with an idea for some folding legs so I can get it in and out of the fridge easily. I am going to drill a small hole for an airlock. If that isn't enough, I'll drill a bigger hole and use a barbed connector to attach a blowoff tube.

Just scored two of these off craigslist with the metal stands for $70 total! Can't wait to pick them up and give them a try. Need to look back through this thread to find ideas for yeast catcher and racking port location. Also need to find a cheap and easy way to maintain fermenting temps. I'll post picks after I pick them up.

sacdan... how are you going to fill that bad boy?
just curious...

sean

What are the dimensions on these things? I'm thinking about building a fermentation chamber in my garage using a window AC to keep it cool (will this work in a hot garage?) that will hold two of these plus a bunch of carboys / better bottles. Will this chamber end up being huge?

They are about 19" wide and 27-28" tall without any valves or yeast catchers attached.

crazyseany said:

sacdan... how are you going to fill that bad boy?
just curious...

sean

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I will use a March pump with a long (10' or so) hose.

Sacdan said:

Almost ready to water test it. I just assembled it and put it on the fermentation chamber.

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I have that freezer! Except I gutted the thermostat, defrost timer & light assembly from the right. I put in the Auber PID (in on/off mode) that can handle 10A on the relay side.

I intended to hook up a light bulb and fan to the alarm circuit so I can heat as well, but in my Jacksonville, Florida garage, "not warm enough" is problem I just don't have often enough to warrant the effort.

Hey guys, thought I'd send a few pictures of my yeast catcher and its yummy contents when I removed it to keg. I had dumped out some trub after 1 week and this is the final dumping after week 2. Also this is a Light Ale with very little hops and no grains (extract) so I could only imagine a beer with a lot more hops and grains (no this beer is not for me, I made it for my guests on Thanksgiving so dont give me crap about eww a light ale)

chuckjaxfl said:

I have that freezer! Except I gutted the thermostat, defrost timer & light assembly from the right. I put in the Auber PID (in on/off mode) that can handle 10A on the relay side.

I intended to hook up a light bulb and fan to the alarm circuit so I can heat as well, but in my Jacksonville, Florida garage, "not warm enough" is problem I just don't have often enough to warrant the effort.

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Question for Sacdan: Do you have enough room along side the yeast trap to put a carboy, or a corny and close the door?

I getting ready to brew a 10 gallon 1.074 brew pitched with WLP530... I'm thinking I need a blowoff tube.

chuckjaxfl: I havne't checked the space yet.

I took the conical out and rebuilt my "shelf frame" for my fridge. I used 3/4" plywood and built a 1x2 frame out of red oak. I can put all my weight on it and it is sturdy.


Before the supports. My crappy chaulk art. My wife will redo it much better!


Building the new frame/shelf


In place



I will post more pix tomorrow when it is in place and full of beer!

I brewed yesterday and made two batches. I filled the conical with 10 gallons of Christmas Ale. I was also able to fit my 5 gallon batch in a better bottle in the bottom of the fermentation chamber. I left the yeast catcher off this time, as it stilled smelled like pvc glue. I noticed that the conical itself had a strong platic smell. I soaked it in oxyclean and then starsan overnight. I did some research and found a recommendation that I place it in the sun. Bingo! That worked likme a champ! Anyway, this freezer will fit the conical and two better bottles.

Sacdan said:

... I did some research and found a recommendation that I place it in the sun. Bingo! That worked likme a champ! Anyway, this freezer will fit the conical and two better bottles.

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That's great! I'll make a note of that.

What's up with the ports you added? I suppose one is a racking port. What's the other addition to the cone? Also, do you think you're going to get any temp stratification above/below your shelf?

The capped port was a mistake. It was supposed to go up top to fill it. It is just capped for now. I could use it for a temp probe. I am going to drill some holes in the shelf in all four corners and put in a PC fan to ciruclate the air. There is about an inch of space between front of the shelf and the door. Now if I only had room for a few more freezers! This is a great thread and all of my ideas came from the OP and others who have posted here. I did come up with the shelf idea. I hope it continues to hold.

Does anyone have a stock list for there yeast catcher?

I have an 1 1/2" male threaded nipple coming out of my ball valve. I bought a 1 1/2" female threaded to 3" slip adapter, a 12"piece of 3" PVC pipe, and a 3" cap. The pipe had the female end on it, otherwise I would have bought a 3" coupler.

Sacdan said:

Jarrod addeed it to the Website.http://www.ohiovalleyag.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=48_49&products_id=2112

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Link now goes to the main page of agrimart.net

I did a search on their site and found: http://agrimart.net/15-gallon-full-drain-inductor-tank-infd15-19/
But in it's description it lists "Fitting Options: 1 1/2" FPT BOSS molded-in threaded outlet, or 2" MPT outlet"

the 2"MPT confuses me, adding to cart and starting checkout process didn't give me any options to choose "fitting options"...

Is this still the right tank?

mschrock said:

Link now goes to the main page of agrimart.net

I did a search on their site and found: http://agrimart.net/15-gallon-full-drain-inductor-tank-infd15-19/
But in it's description it lists "Fitting Options: 1 1/2" FPT BOSS molded-in threaded outlet, or 2" MPT outlet"

the 2"MPT confuses me, adding to cart and starting checkout process didn't give me any options to choose "fitting options"...

Is this still the right tank?

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I'm interested in an answer to this too, I was planning on ordering one of these today. On a side note, has anyone figured out how to add a rotating racking arm?

Grrrr... So I made a batch today to be the second go at my build and I could not get my yeast catcher to thread on straight and the plastic threads are now crooked and now I'm looking for an alternative. Anyone else have problems with their yeast catcher threading into the ball valve after a couple of times of putting it on? This batch is in there with no yeast catcher until I find an alternative. I was thinking of replacing the male thread piece on the yeast catcher and getting another SS niple with a female end on the yeast catcher and maybe super glueing it.

sgoncalves said:

Grrrr... So I made a batch today to be the second go at my build and I could not get my yeast catcher to thread on straight and the plastic threads are now crooked and now I'm looking for an alternative. Anyone else have problems with their yeast catcher threading into the ball valve after a couple of times of putting it on? This batch is in there with no yeast catcher until I find an alternative. I was thinking of replacing the male thread piece on the yeast catcher and getting another SS niple with a female end on the yeast catcher and maybe super glueing it.

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I've (obviously) been watching this thread. I think when I take on this project, I'll put a cam-lock or a tri-clover between the valve and the bulb.

Seems like you could start with one of these:
http://www.brewershardware.com/1-1.5-Tri-Clover-X-1.5-Male-NPT.html

and go tri-clover from there. Or put big camlocks between the bulb and the valve.