Are you planning on coiling it around couplers or using it as standard soldering, such as feeding the solder to the heat? I've never tried the thin solder in a coil, but I imagine it would work very similar to the thick solder, possibly even better because more surface area to heat. However, it may be a little harder to control if feeding it to heat, because it would be consumed to fast you'd really have to move. So, basically, I use the thicker solder because that's what I bought, and it's what most everyone else uses.
Soldering Stainless steel
- Thread starter BargainFittings
- Start date
Help Support Homebrew Talk:
Are you planning on coiling it around couplers or using it as standard soldering, such as feeding the solder to the heat? I've never tried the thin solder in a coil, but I imagine it would work very similar to the thick solder, possibly even better because more surface area to heat. However, it may be a little harder to control if feeding it to heat, because it would be consumed to fast you'd really have to move. So, basically, I use the thicker solder because that's what I bought, and it's what most everyone else uses.
I planned on wrapping it around couplers, coiling it under lock nuts - basically not feeding it to the heat.
I noticed the kits come with a really thin gauge, but when buying the solder separately it seems to be much more common in the 1/8 size
I noticed the kits come with a really thin gauge, but when buying the solder separately it seems to be much more common in the 1/8 size
150 - 250 or so was used for auto body repair (before everything was plastic...).
That is a big soldering iron.
Solder is softer than steel so the connection is not as "strong" but it also has more give so it should be durable enough.
A reason to go with brazing or silver solder is that they are higher temperature materials. Plumbers solder melts at around 350 degrees so it should be OK but if it ever gets direct head from a big burner or gets boiled dry it might fail.
Of course the flip side is you will have to use a torch to do the high temp solders/ brazing.
I'd say go for it, you can always buy more solder if you run out. My 1lb solder roll and 1 pint flux was about $40. I went with Orchard Supply lead free 440 degree solder and Mcmaster.com stainless flux.
noiz2 said:
Almost 80 pages and no one's had this issue yet. Although, one nice thing is nothing will leak if it fails from burning a dry kettle. Buried in here somewhere, someone either jumped on a fitting or dropped a keg right on it and the solder held strong. This is an effective method and it's hard to mess up. Soldering FTW!
Didn't say it would fail just that it could be an issue to be aware of. As long as it's not a pressure vessel it is pretty hard to get a surface that has gallons of water in contact with it to get much over boiling so generally not an issue. With some of the burners on high though you do get flames licking around the sides and then it would be possible for the fitting to get directly heated.
I was just pointing out possible issues since few posting on this thread seemed to know much about the differences between solder, silver solder, and brazing.
Solder is not used generally for structural purposes where silver solder and brazing are.
But as you point out nobody has had problems so...
It's certainly simpler to do.
I was just pointing out possible issues since few posting on this thread seemed to know much about the differences between solder, silver solder, and brazing.
Solder is not used generally for structural purposes where silver solder and brazing are.
But as you point out nobody has had problems so...
It's certainly simpler to do.
![Craft A Brew - Safale S-04 Dry Yeast - Fermentis - English Ale Dry Yeast - For English and American Ales and Hard Apple Ciders - Ingredients for Home Brewing - Beer Making Supplies - [1 Pack]](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/41fVGNh6JfL._SL500_.jpg)
wyzazz
Well-Known Member
You should decide how much you want per roll and sell them. ;0)
Wow! I could use a couple of those. I'm running low on Stay-Brite #8.
Hey l3asturd, I thought I might find you in here. I liked your demo the other weekend. Next time I have a keg to do, I might be asking you a few questions or pointers.
I might sell a few to help pay for my auber pids.
Hey I'd be happy to help out!
If you do, please let me know. I'm interested in 2 of the Stay-Brite #8 solder.
Thanks.
P-J
wyzazz
Well-Known Member
Mmmmmm, Sta-Brite...
I'd love to buy 4-8 ozs of the S-B #8 from you as an entire spool would be more than a lifetime supply for me....but I completely understand if that's too much of a hassle.
Might be an odd way to do this, but here's my element mounting solder job. I used a single gang stainless plate. I punched a hole but to be honest they sell them with circles punched in them already, so it was dumb to punch my own. I did dimple with a larger version of "The Tool". I pulled the 1" half coupler through the faceplate and soldered, then pull the coupler/faceplate combo through my keg wall.and soldered.
Here's the finished product (besides the steel weatherproof enclosure, which will mount backwards.
Looks like I forgot to clean the inside
Leak testing has begun!
Here's the finished product (besides the steel weatherproof enclosure, which will mount backwards.
Looks like I forgot to clean the inside
Leak testing has begun!Honestly it's a hobby in itself! I've been walking around looking for things to solder together! Haha. My fingers are all cut up and dead though. I ordered new fingers from China so they'll be here in a few weeks.
By the way, I wasn't planning on splitting the rolls up. I don't have a digital scale or anything so I'd have no idea how much to send.
I will sell a roll for almost half what the stores charge though. $40 a lb. if anyone wants one or 2 send me a pm. If not, I better start a silver soldering business so I can use these rolls up.
By the way, I wasn't planning on splitting the rolls up. I don't have a digital scale or anything so I'd have no idea how much to send.
I will sell a roll for almost half what the stores charge though. $40 a lb. if anyone wants one or 2 send me a pm. If not, I better start a silver soldering business so I can use these rolls up.
l3asturd said:Might be an odd way to do this, but here's my element mounting solder job. I used a single gang stainless plate. I punched a hole but to be honest they sell them with circles punched in them already, so it was dumb to punch my own. I did dimple with a larger version of "The Tool". I pulled the 1" half coupler through the faceplate and soldered, then pull the coupler/faceplate combo through my keg wall.and soldered.
Here's the finished product (besides the steel weatherproof enclosure, which will mount backwards.
Looks like I forgot to clean the inside
I don't get it by the pics. Why solder to a cover plate that has a threaded fitting? Did you solder fittings to your keg? I can't tell. Pretend you're water folks. Where are you going to squeeze through?
l3asturd said:
Sorry, had a few last night. Didn't mean to come off as an ass. So, you have a coupling soldered in between the cover plate and the keg? How are you attaching a box?
wilserbrewer
BIAB Expert Tailor
Wow...I must be pretty thick skinned...I didn't pick up on any ass like attitude. This method is a bit confusing, looks like the plate is soldered to the coupling, then the coupling soldered to the keg, then the box is mounted backwards on the plate.
DustBow said:
That is how I see it. Most element mounting methods I see here are not that way though. The element flange should be outside the box IMO. There was a thread that discussed this a while back that got pretty heated and then deleted.
Thats correct.
Basically I wasn't comfortable with a locknut soldered to the wall, so I dimple soldered the coupling to the wall. I also wanted a stronger box mounting option than jb weld, so bought a stainless box cover and soldered it to the coupling. The element is teflon taped to hell and is still torqued enough for liquid tight compression against the o-ring. The backwards element box will have a silicone rubber gasket (DIY gasket) and i will fill any crevice with silicone gel, plus the solder joint around the coupling. I plan on stress testing everything extensively before applying electricity. This thing will be NEMA 4X rated by the time I'm done with it.
Didn't pick up on any assness...and I have plenty of being an ass first hand experience!
l3asturd said:
That's good. Cheers.
I'm still wondering how you are going to screw a box to that cover plate though. I guess a right angle screwdriver?
i just ordered these from amazon for much cheaper, are they the right parts?
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003RWTYPA/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003GXF5QW/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
hope so and sorry I got the last coupling socket.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003RWTYPA/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003GXF5QW/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
hope so and sorry I got the last coupling socket.
Last edited by a moderator:
Similar threads
