I have that same kegerator. Just curious, but I can get 3 cornies and the 5 pounder in there with no problems. Are you useing pin lock cornies?
I probably could have, but it's crowded in there, so it made sense to move the stuff that doesn't need to be cooled 'out'... now checking/setting pressure, and changing cylinders doesn't require removing cornys.. plus I plan to go to a 15 or 20 lb tank as soon as possible... Much cheaper for CO2 that way...
I went a cheaper route (though not easier) and just modified the standard tower for three taps, but I like your idea better.
Afterwards, I found I had uneven cooling. The front 2 kegs were considerably warmer than the back one. So I attached a hard drive cooler directly to the cold plate for circulation and now it cools great.
Yours looks great. I may have to go that route.
When I built this, I planned to add a fan to move air up into the tower box and back down into the fridge.. But so far I haven't had any cooling issues with the tower, and I haven't even fastened it down yet or used a gasket...
It takes longer now to get the kegs to serving temp when I put them in there, but once they do, the thermal mass of the liquid keeps them all cool...
Do you put fermometers on your cornys? I do.. that way they can serve dual purpose as secondary fermenters, and I can tell when they've dropped to serving temp in Miss Keggy...
I did turn the kegerator temp down a bit when I went to three kegs though..
Prior to this, I had two kegs, one hooked to the tower, and the other inside hooked to a party tap.. That sucked because I had to open the door and hook up the tap when I wanted to have a drink.. then un hook it before I went to bed.. and the party taps beer line was too short, so I always got a lot of foam...
Now it all works perfectly.. I'm enjoying the crap out of this thing... Only problem I ran into, is that the shanks on the taps loosened up (I guess from the wood being cooled?) But I was able to tighten them up by just cranking on them slightly with tap attached , then disconnect the ball locks and reposition the faucets to upright....
Eventually, I'm going to make a large piece of oak slightly wider than the tower, and about two times as deep... I can then attach the new box to the top of that, fill the existing hole through the top of miss keggy with expanding foam, and drill a new pass through hole farther back.. Then I can move the tower back a few inches, and place a stainless drip tray on top of the piece sticking forward...
The box also allows me to sneak wiring inside so that I can install an LED strip light in the recess under the lip on the front where the taps stick out... could mount a dimmer on the back of the tower box or on the back of the kegerator...