Mendozer's Keezer

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mendozer

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I scored an old Amana off CL for $20. Turned it...slowly into my keezer. I had kegs in there for about 3 months with plastic picnic taps and finally had the time to do the rest today:
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The lid with the collar (1x6 pine) mounted with 4 gusset angles. I lined the corners with rope weatherstripping (grey stuff) to plug the holes. I'll also line the outside seam where the pine meets the gasket with silicone. The caulk tube I bought today was stuck so I'll be returning it for another and finish that tomorrow.
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Mounting the secondaries that I built here to the back. I was forever trying to make a pretty box with a sheet metal face to hold it in. Then I said "screw it" and used the flexible steel plumber's tape. On the right is a barbed piece that actually goes through the wood to the other side.
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The other side has a female QD. I thought this was a nifty idea since I can leave the system closed when i need to fill up my tank. Also, I don't have a tube running through the wood leading to a potential cold air leak. So from inside to outside it follows: 5/16" barb to 1/4" NPT --> 1/4" female pipe coupling --> 1/4" NPT to female QD --> male QD to 1/4" NPT --> 1/4" female NPT to 1/4" barb --> regulator with 5/16" barb
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The back, where I made a small hole to stick my Johnson Controls probe through, then filled it with the rope weatherstripping. I had to get creative when dismantling the tops of the hinges from the freezer lid. There's no hole for a nail to go through (like whirlpool and frigidaire) so I had to jam the thin metal hinge cover into the crease that closed in order to keep it from snapping back after removing the bolts. I then made pilot holes into the wood and re-attached the bolts. On the inside, I filled the holes (although plugged with the bolt) with more weatherstripping. I also cut the wire going from the lid to the compressor as that's the light sensor. Right now I don't care about the light, but I kept the wire taped to the back in case I want light in there. I'll just splice an extra 8" of wire and I'll be good. Until then, electrical tape is covering it.
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The probe is in water mounted into the corner there by the world's best mounting device...duct tape. On the left of the regs I bent back the bottom of my refrigerator thermometer and screwed it into the wood for easy reading.
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On my primary regulator is a Y splitter. One goes into the keezer via QD and the other stays with a gas-in piece for purging my kegs after racking.
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Everything hooked up (all MFL connects except the small segment going from secondary to wall of keezer, which is barbed). I only had enough line to hook my two hefeweizens up. The other is a cider, which is just aging and a Manny's clone I just kegged and I'm aging it for a bit while dry hopping. I also taped some of that foam insulation board to the walls. easy enough, although maybe not necessary. And under the pine is rubber weatherseal with the "all" pattern (likes like 5 points on a rectangle) rather than the simple P design. When i close it i can hear a "whip" so i know it's sealing good.
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Time to relax now with a nice hef. You'll see there are no taps mounted on the front. I'm still using my picnic taps until I find a good price on used taps and shanks, then I'll put 5 on the front since 5 kegs will fit in there. I'll eventually put a Y on one of the secondaries, or maybe just keep 4 on tap and one aging at any given time.


Happy Brewing!
 
It's ALIVE!!!! Here it is finally finished with aeshetic touches:

oak stain on collar, steel flashing bent around corners with machine screws, Perlick SS 525 with SS shanks on the side (the handles would prevent me from getting to keezer lid handle), Chalkboard paint all around, and black spray paint on the old white gasket.

Side note on details... I used MFL nuts on the shanks because I have MFL everywhere else on regulator, keg posts, etc. So just to make it easy I went with those. I went with the faucets, shanks, mfls, and the little things like the faucet covers from Nick at TheBeerTapStore.com Email him and he'll work with you to assemble a package at a good price. This ended up (with shipping to Seattle from New York) to be about the same as ordering pre-made SS assemblies with barbs off ebay. (each faucet, shank, mfl combo came out to $62) not bad conisdering ebay's best price was $60 and each MFL separate is like $8 not including washers or nuts.

All in all, I'm really stoked about this and I smile every time I come home and walk by this thing

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Looks awesome! Interesting going with the taps through the side, rather than the front. I like the look of the flashing and machine screw too, gives it an industrial look.
 
yeah it was done for handle access, but it leaves less clutter when you open it. the tubes aren't right in front if you which is nice.
 
Looks great! I like the use of the Chalk Board Paint. Its some great stuff. I took an extra piece of sheetrock and screwed it to my wall. I framed it in window casing and painted it with the chalkboard paint. I mounted a dartboard in the center of it. Great way to keep score. and in your case great way to label your beers.
 
very nice. Looks to be the same size as the one I am using. I went with the controller on the front left and right now three taps to the front right. I didn't paint mine so it's still white but seeing yours all black I am thinking about doing the same with the chalkboard paint. Looks awesome bro!
gret job.
 
Well, the freezer died on me.

Moment of silence................


I bought a new one and of course this means new collar, possible design changes, etc. I'm keeping the taps on the side (less mess when opening), the QD on the side (since it never leaked and I like having the option to use my male QD side for topping off beer or wine after a transfer to fall under any oxygen in the bucket or carboy) and paint.

I am thinking of changing the handles since the new freezer has the recessed handles built into the lid. I think it'd be cool to have handles on the front of the collar. Thinking of these:

chest pull

ring pull

or iron pipe

towel bars didn't seem strong enough and grab bars are expensive. The pipe looks bad-ass but it'll be $25 to make with the parts, compared to the others of $4 each.

For the chest or ring pull I was thinking two on the front of the collar. I'm favoring the ring pull because it's unique and it's flush.

Thoughts on these or other ideas you think would be good improvements?
 
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