Mash Paddle Finish???

I just finished my first Mash Paddle and was looking into putting a finish on it. I read about using mineral oil but i already have a beeswax and mineral oil mix. Its food safe and i was just wondering if anybody else has used that combo on their mash paddle.

My main concern is that during the boil the wax may leach out/off of the paddle. I was thinking i could use a hair drier to help get the wood to absorb the finish.

Most, if not all, of the wooden paddles I've seen have been unfinished, spefically to prevent the finish from interacting with the wort in any way. You don't want the oils to get into the wort, as they'd tend to degrade your head retention, and you certainly don't want anything like polyurethane or the like going into there...

The person that made my paddle said to use JUST mineral oil (same stuff you use on wood cutting boards) as needed. You don't want other things getting into your mash (wax would sit on the surface, and most likely flow at mash temps). Just because it's 'food safe' doesn't make it mash safe or friendly.

BTW, mineral oil gets absorbed by the wood itself and just help to prevent it from cracking/splitting from getting too dry. You shouldn't use so much that it's left sitting on the surface.

I am thinking of using a beeswax/mineral oil finish not polyurethane. I know enough about finishes to not use that stuff.

Would the wax and oil leach out after the wood has absorbed it?

I would not put any finish on it at all. Even mineral oil and linseed oil will start to leach out at the higher mash temps. What type of wood did you use? As long as it is a good hardwood you will be fine without any finish, just rinse it off and hang it up to dry when your done.

Hard Maple.

No finish. Just the sweet wort that has dried into it after it has gently caressed those little sugars out of the fruit of the earth. Sorry, was I waxing poetic again?

I used Maple from Lowes.

I REALLY want this paddle to last since i only had a camp saw, dremel and later on some files to make it. So there is a ton of SWEAT and a bit of blood that went into making it. My second one is taking a lot less time but i have a few more tool.

zmad2000 said:

I used Maple from Lowes.

I REALLY want this paddle to last since i only had a camp saw, dremel and later on some files to make it. So there is a ton of SWEAT and a bit of blood that went into making it. My second one is taking a lot less time but i have a few more tool.

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IF it starts to show sign of splitting, then oil it. Otherwise, leave it alone. I've oiled mine once in more than a few batches. I might not need to do it more than every year, or five. I'll probably oil the handle section more often than the part that goes into the mash.

I just use a butcher block wax on it when it starts to get dry. Let it soak in for 30 minutes or so and then wipe it clean. I don't worry too much about anything leaching out in the minimal amount of time it is in contact with the wort.

mine is unfinished.. i just hose it off when i'm rinsing out my mashtun after a brewday and haven't had a problem.. had it for about 2 years now

Mine is finished with the beeswax/mineral oil....been using it for over a year...no problems with head retention or any of those paranoid things people talk about...all myths....IMO I mean its not like you leave that mash paddle in the mash for more than a few minutes...maybe you would see some bad things happen if you mashed in your mash paddle with the grains

It come down too a matter of preference on how you want your mash paddle to look

Schumed said:

Mine is finished with the beeswax/mineral oil....been using it for over a year...no problems with head retention or any of those paranoid things people talk about...all myths....IMO I mean its not like you leave that mash paddle in the mash for more than a few minutes...maybe you would see some bad things happen if you mashed in your mash paddle with the grains

It come down too a matter of preference on how you want your mash paddle to look

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Same here. Just mineral oil, and no problems at all. Plus it looks cool.

I've made and sold dozens of mash paddles. Really the finish vs not finish debate is a matter of personal preference. I've used them all and only noticed I'll effects on head retention with the linseed oil and the mineral oil bees wax combo. I think the linseed oil mistake was a result of it not drying long enough. Check out this link for more info on food safe finishes.

http://www.finewoodworking.com/SkillsAndTechniques/SkillsAndTechniquesArticle.aspx?id=26893

The pure tung oil does by far last the longest, and it is not nearly as difficult to apply as the article would have you believe, but the cure time is really really long and at 30-45 dollars for a quart you are looking at a large investment for the very small amount you will use. Good luck

http://www.rustoleum.com/cbgimages/products/WABtb01L.jpg

I used this on the one I just made.

I have been thinking about buying that. After reading reviews and going over the price. Beeswax $10 and mineral oil $5 is about the same price wise but i get more uses out of it vs the butcher block oil.

zmad2000 said:

I have been thinking about buying that. After reading reviews and going over the price. Beeswax $10 and mineral oil $5 is about the same price wise but i get more uses out of it vs the butcher block oil.

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I teach wood working classes and use the Watco butcher block oil frequently. It does work well for many applications, but it does dry very quickley in the container. So much so that I can't store it very long. As soon as open it the clock states ticking. It needs to be used within a month or it's ruined.

I used nothing on my hard maple mash paddle, looking good after a year...I also use a stainless spoon in the boil. I wouldn't stir the wort in my kettle with it.