How many BTU's is your Hurricane Natural Gas Burner .......burning

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This is not really true, as I have used both gas and electric systems. My electric systems have kicked the pants off my gas systems for boiling.

9000W is equal to 30,708 BTUs... BUT it heats 3x faster than my little 55K BTU propane burner.

I dont know how else to design a gas system aside from proper shielding, so that it helps to concentrate the heat at the kettle.

9000W will take 13 gallons from sparge temp. 160F to a boil in 11 minutes. I could never get close to this with my gas burners, I couldn't do it that quickly in a 7 gallon boil in fact. I can also heat 5 gallons of strike water at a rate of 10F per MINUTE. I dont understand the brute force analogy, because this seems like brute force to me. ;)

I know people like to say that electric is slow, but it isnt when you consider that it is about 95% eff (accounting for heat loss) and it has been tested time and time again with gas burners and the numbers are anywhere from 20-30% eff. This means that you need a gas burner that is 3-5x larger than is electric counterpart to heat in the same amount of time.

Even a 5500W BK is equal to a gas burner of about 75K BTUs... it is just much cheaper to operate.

I would put my electric BK against most gas BKs any day.

My garage used to get up to about 90F in the dead of winter when I had a gas BK running. With electric it is still a balmy 45F when the BK is running, because all of that heat is going into the garage, not my boil.

We are wayyyy OT here though and re-hashing the same thing that has always been hashed. Gas users swear electric is slow to heat, and electric users who have used both, know it isnt true, the heating times speak for themselves.

To each their own, but the correct information should be out there
 
Kladue is not referring to any system you or I have had. He is referring to something like this. Because there is so much energy available in fossil fuels, they have the potential to be equivalent to electric. It all comes back to the efficiency of getting those BTUs into the wort.

I was really trying not to turn this thread into an electric vs. gas debate. The OP was asking about formulas for determining BTUs, etc. Maybe we should let this go.
 


Holy off topic. This wasn't supposed to be a thread about how many btu's are getting into keggles or how they're getting there. I was just stating what the btu tables say my burner is putting out period. This was so other people that want to get their orifice sizing right the first time on a hurricane or banjo burner. No one could tell me what their burners were putting out for btu's thats all. So I'm letting people know that the 56000 btu mark seems to be a good one to shoot for. Good flame color and no soot on the keg. My efficiency may go up when I drill the holes around the skirt too.
 
That is 10,200 BTUs of heat that you are getting into your pot. Where are you getting the 56,000 BTU number?

Yah, sorry, my initial question to you was "how are you calculating your BTUs...." Orifice size and pressure.

Then we got here. Sorry.
 
And for the real question for anyone who may have done this , do you know exactly how many BTU's your running?

I posted the answer on the second page. Here. You need to measure the weight of the tank before and after a burn, multiply by the propane energy content, then divide by hours. That gets you BTU/hr.
 
Passed, I also liked how you edited your post to include the heat content figure for NG. Of course, with your method and NG, it's pretty hard to "weigh the tank" before and after, so I'm not too sure the additional info was really needed! :)
 
Passed, I also liked how you edited your post to include the heat content figure for NG. Of course, with your method and NG, it's pretty hard to "weigh the tank" before and after, so I'm not too sure the additional info was really needed! :)

OMG, you're right. I'm so stupid. Sometimes the obvious evades me while the details obscure my view.
 
No, not stupid, you wanted to provide additional info, which is good. These things happen when we Prost and Post, you know! :) I've tasted my own show leather more than once on boards like these!
 
Finally got around to checking this, not sure if you still need it. A 1/8" drill bit kinda fits, 7/64 is too small. It looks like its about drilled all the way out.

Okay, so for anyone that's made it this far I think it's safe to say that 1/8" drill bit should work for most people. That's what the "conversion valve" is and that what I ended up at by testing the pressure and testing the flame. For those of you with really strange NG pressure you should shoot for the 56,000 BTU mark on the orifice sizing charts. Also I am using the "Banjo" burner and it is indeed the same as the "Hurricane". Well maybe cheaper but the same. Also to go from the brass orifice to 1/2" NPT I used a brass bushing and brazed the two together even though the threads were not NPT on the orifice itself. It worked out really well this way as I hard piped everything on the stand(I have a pipe threader to male custom length pipes).
 
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