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jkarp
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Anybody happen to catch a copy of the November BYO yet?
Countertop Brutus 20
- Thread starter jkarp
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jkarp
Well-Known Member
That's not true! I left AT LEAST one copy behind at The Brew Hut.
This is pretty much a direct clone of jkarp's system with the exception of the chiller. I'm going no chill for now until I get a chance to get a chiller in the bucket. I was just too anxious to get through that first brew. I really want to publicly thank him for all of his help. Because of him, I became a paying member of the site.
Did my first brew today. Burnt out my element (stupid mistake on my part), so I had to finish on the stove. We'll see how it turns out in a few weeks, I guess.
Did my first brew today. Burnt out my element (stupid mistake on my part), so I had to finish on the stove. We'll see how it turns out in a few weeks, I guess.
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jkarp
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Very cool! Except for the cooked element of course. I've come close to plugging in an empty kettle a couple times with the switch on. Now I don't plug ANYTHING in until I've got water in the kettle.
I just wasn't paying close enough attention when heating the MLT and let the water get too low in the kettle. Unfortunately, I didn't realize my mistake until the mash was under way and the kettle was not heating the rest of my water. At that point I figured there's no turning back without wasting all the grain, so I trudged ahead.
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BoilerInSoCal
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This set up looks perfect for me. (1) I've been thinking about going electric for a while now, but don't have a 240-v set up; (2) I've been thinking about cutting the size of my batches to allow for more variety and a smaller belly (and No. 2 is on the way, so the wife isn't drinking her share!); (3) being able to brew out of reach of No. 1 would be nice (or easily transport the system to a friend's place); and (4) being able to store all of the components in a small closet is great.
I'm curious, has anyone tried the plate chiller in lieu of the CFC? I saw some older posts suggesting it, but have not seen any results posted.
I'm curious, has anyone tried the plate chiller in lieu of the CFC? I saw some older posts suggesting it, but have not seen any results posted.
HarkinBanks
Well-Known Member
I did it with a shirron, works great, but you have to use a kettle screen in the brew pot. Backflushing is very easy. And don't think you have to limit yourself if you don't have 240, I use two 120V 2000W elements in my 8 gal BK, also works great. I have a 10 gal MLT.
-Dan-
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Pump / CFC inside:
Interesting project. That raises a question regarding cleaning... Do you take everything apart once you are done cleaning? I'm wondering if mold builds up inside the silicone tubing if you leave everything connected after cleaning.
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jkarp
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Somewhere back in this thread I walked through a brew day. Once the beer's safely tucked away in the fermenter, I rinse the kettle, fill it with hot water and some Oxyclean and then cycle it through the pump and chiller for a few minutes. Oxyclean is a superb brewery cleaner. After the oxy cycle, I rinse out the kettle, fill again with hot water and pump it through the pump / CFC (dumping to the sink) to rinse it out. A dozen or so rotations of the bucket over the sink rolls out any remaining water from the coils and its ready to put up. Never seen a hint of mold anywhere - even with a month between brews.
Looking ahead, I figure I'll disassemble the silicone inside the bucket annually just to check for corrosion and give those connections a thorough cleaning.
FlintPaper
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Awesome article jkarp.
I'm thinking of building one myself now.
I'm thinking of building one myself now.
Sockmonkey
Well-Known Member
Awesome design!
The BYO article led me to finding this thread. I'm definitely going to build one, trying to utilize my existing equipment and possibly converting to 5Gal.
The BYO article led me to finding this thread. I'm definitely going to build one, trying to utilize my existing equipment and possibly converting to 5Gal.
Gregredic
Well-Known Member
Definitely going to take a few pointers from this when I build my electric brew rig.
HarkinBanks
Well-Known Member
Congrats on the article Jkarp, can't wait to read it when it goes online!
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jkarp
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Thanks everybody!
Dalarast
Well-Known Member
I was at the LHBS the other day in Virginia Beach VA talking about my goal of piecing together a brew setup out of kegs I'm picking up online and trying to make a dream build. But since I live on the oceanfront in a townhome with no garage and all the joys of being a happily married father I have lack of space. So the LHBS pulled out your article and recommended your setup. Word travels fast in the brew community! Great job man on a true piece of using what you got to do what you want...
Sockmonkey
Well-Known Member
jkarp, two quick questions on your thermocouple:
1) I only see two "liquid tight" TCs on AuberIns. Are you using the 2" or 4" probe model?
2) What fitting is used between the TC and the siteglass body?
1) I only see two "liquid tight" TCs on AuberIns. Are you using the 2" or 4" probe model?
2) What fitting is used between the TC and the siteglass body?
HarkinBanks
Well-Known Member
Go with the 4" TC. It will give you better readings during chill mode.
IIRC, you need a brass 1/2" to 1/4" reducer into the sightglass. The TC is 1/4". You can get the reducer at Home Depot in the plumbing section. Wrap the heck out of those connections with teflon tape, they can leak.
Yes, go with the 4". I got the 2" and it doesn't protrude into the BK at all and it's a little slow and inaccurate by a degree or 2. The 4" is on my list of things to get in the future.
HarkinBanks
Well-Known Member
Thankfully JK told me to get the 4" one before I built my system, more kudos to the Countertop Brutus 20 guru.
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jkarp
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You guys got it. I think that reducer may be missing from the BOM here. It *is* in the parts list I sent to BYO. I believe they're going to be doing an on-line extension to the article at http://www.byo.com that will include it.
Got my issue of BYO yesterday in the mail.
Nice article, though I found this thread more useful (though quite a bit longer).
Nice article, though I found this thread more useful (though quite a bit longer).
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jkarp
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Thanks Baron ken. As is normal in publishing, quite a bit of detail got edited out. I'm hoping BYO will cover more of the details online when they post the materials list.
Lonnie Mac
Well-Known Member
Dayum my friend! Just got my BYO today. Most excellent article! (And not because you mentioned my name!)
I am very humbled my friend, and thanks! This is very much your system!
You have gone to a place where I (and a lot of others) have been thinking for quite some time. Small batch brewing... As I started in a small apartment and then went to big batches, I have been working toward smaller batches too... Although I don't have the (lack) of drinking problem you have! A small batch could last me maybe a day? I miss experimenting sometimes, but I want to do it with all grain...
Excellent system bud... Gotta have a beer one day!
I am very humbled my friend, and thanks! This is very much your system!
You have gone to a place where I (and a lot of others) have been thinking for quite some time. Small batch brewing... As I started in a small apartment and then went to big batches, I have been working toward smaller batches too... Although I don't have the (lack) of drinking problem you have! A small batch could last me maybe a day?
I miss experimenting sometimes, but I want to do it with all grain...Excellent system bud... Gotta have a beer one day!
wyzazz
Well-Known Member
Congratulations on the BYO Article!!!
Sockmonkey
Well-Known Member
I'm still debating on whether I want to scale this system up for 5 gallons; if I can do it with a single 120V element (2000W), then it's a no brainer. If it's going to require multiple 120V elements or a 240V element, then that makes my decision much harder since it will introduce some logistical problems.
I've read every thread I can find on electric MLT / BK and some people indicate that 5 gallon batches can't be done with a single 120V element. However, the "Electric Heat Calculator" spreadsheet that has been referenced a lot indicates the following:
Heat 5 gallons 60F to 155F w/ 2000W = 37 minutes
Boil 7.5 gallons from 170F w/ 2000W = 24 minutes
These numbers seem reasonable to me. So, any thoughts or advice from JK or others?
I've read every thread I can find on electric MLT / BK and some people indicate that 5 gallon batches can't be done with a single 120V element. However, the "Electric Heat Calculator" spreadsheet that has been referenced a lot indicates the following:
Heat 5 gallons 60F to 155F w/ 2000W = 37 minutes
Boil 7.5 gallons from 170F w/ 2000W = 24 minutes
These numbers seem reasonable to me. So, any thoughts or advice from JK or others?
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jkarp
Well-Known Member
Dayum my friend! Just got my BYO today. Most excellent article! (And not because you mentioned my name!)
I am very humbled my friend, and thanks! This is very much your system!
You have gone to a place where I (and a lot of others) have been thinking for quite some time. Small batch brewing... As I started in a small apartment and then went to big batches, I have been working toward smaller batches too... Although I don't have the (lack) of drinking problem you have! A small batch could last me maybe a day?
Excellent system bud... Gotta have a beer one day!
Glad ya liked it Lonnie. I had a couple of quotes in there from you that sadly hit the editing room floor, but I was pumped they added the reference to your 10 build. Next time you're in CO, the beers are on me.
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jkarp
Well-Known Member
5 gallons is quite doable, but that's starting volume. I get a good rolling boil with 5 gallons in my 120V 2KW kettle. After a 2 hour boil (max I ever envision doing), I'd end up with 3.5 gallons of finished beer.
Now, if you want 5 (or more likely 5.5) gallons of finished beer, you'd be looking at starting the boil with upwards of 7 gallons. Without some serious effort at controlling heat loss from the kettle, I really don't think a single 2KW element will give you a good boil on 7 gallons. POL, our resident electric brewing guru, may chime in, but I believe he'll have the same opinion. A weak boil can lead to some seriously disappointing beers (as anyone who's pushed their kitchen stove to the limits knows).
HarkinBanks
Well-Known Member
JK is right on. After some experimenting and a lot of "Pol" reading on here, a 7 gal boil with one 2KW element will not cut it. I built my clone with two 2KW elements and it will give 7 gallons a rip roaring boil. I plug my second element into a separate circuit in my kitchen for the boil and throttle the other element in my PID back to 75%. This gives me 3500W for my full boil.
Jaysus
Well-Known Member
Totally super Awesome!
