Best burner? Hurricane VS Jet VS Banjo?

Bobby_M said:

No, the conversion valves are a valve + orifice as one piece. It has to thread directly into the the hole in the air damper. You can run remote valves but then at that point you kinda wasted money on the NG conversion when the stock orifices could have been drilled out.

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Thanks for the replies, I'm thinking I will just try drilling the stock orifices and use some off the shelf gas valves from home depot to control the flame on each burner. I'll just return the WB conversion valves.

vincemash said:

Thanks for the replies, I'm thinking I will just try drilling the stock orifices and use some off the shelf gas valves from home depot to control the flame on each burner. I'll just return the WB conversion valves.

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Okay another question....will the standard gas ball valves be adequate to control the flame on these or will I need some sort of needle valve?

thanks

The WB conversion is a valve and orifice in one as bobby said. You could drill out the one you have or keep both (so you can still use LP). The valve that's attached to the orifice already is what you should use to control the flow.

In my setup, I have 1/2" hose run from my NG line to the orifice/valve. The exact hookup is this:

Black Iron hard plumbed -> On/off valve -> QD -> 10' 1/2" hose -> QD -> Orifice/Valve Conversion from WB -> Burner

ajwillys said:

The WB conversion is a valve and orifice in one as bobby said. You could drill out the one you have or keep both (so you can still use LP). The valve that's attached to the orifice already is what you should use to control the flow.

In my setup, I have 1/2" hose run from my NG line to the orifice/valve. The exact hookup is this:

Black Iron hard plumbed -> On/off valve -> QD -> 10' 1/2" hose -> QD -> Orifice/Valve Conversion from WB -> Burner

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Thanks all for the comments.

I got one burner plumbed and drilled my orifices yesterday ...worked my way up till the flame was where I wanted it.

I have 3/4 Black pipe at the source, connected a yellow gas flex line made for furnaces to this, then it goes to my stand where I made a 1/2" black pipe manifold. The 3 valves on the manifold go from 1/2" FPT to 3/8" Flare...I hooked up the burners with 3/8" copper tube and flare fittings.

Initial results, these things put out a TON of heat.....I was almost afraid to fire up the burner without a kettle on there cause I could feel the heat all the way on the ceiling of the garage.

I'll get some pic's posted this week in the brew stand thread.

If anyone is looking for the Williams brewing conversion valves, I have 3 on the way to me and I see they are now sold out online.....I can ship them to you at my cost plus shipping as I don't need them anymore:

http://www.williamsbrewing.com/HURRICANE_CONVERSION_VALVE_P2214C87.cfm



Thanks
Vince

Forgive my ignorance when it comes to plumbing matters. Can I take the burner off my Brinkmann turkey fryer and replace it with a hurricane or banjo burner? Here is the Brinkmann I have http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc...splay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053. I've measure the stand and I believe it will fit. What other modifications if any would I need to do? My current burner works great with 5 gallon batches and an aluminum pot. I do have to worry about boil overs. I've upgraded to a 10 gallon stainless pot but it takes almost and hour for my current burner to heat the wort to boiling.

So all this talk about the burners but where is the best place to get the flexible gas line and valve if you have to split the gas between 3 burners?

I see this has been dead for a while - as Oceanselv asked - can a banjo burner be retrofit into another "cooker"?
I'm thinking of doing this to my Camp Chef. I love the stand and the legs for draining into the carboy, but would like to put a banjo burner in it as well......
Cheers.

Williams has Hurricane Low Pressure Burners for $38.90!!!

Scimmia said:

Just so you don't get in trouble with the wrong parts, a 20# BBQ propane tank is a high pressure supply, low pressure would be a large tank set up to run a furnace.

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Just to confirm the earlier statement. You can use the 20# cylinder for either low or high pressure. It all depends on your regulator. My family owns several propane companies all across the southeast so I can assure you, this is 100% accurate.

marlinharwell said:

Just to confirm the earlier statement. You can use the 20# cylinder for either low or high pressure. It all depends on your regulator. My family owns several propane companies all across the southeast so I can assure you, this is 100% accurate.

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Yeah, this is true. Liquid propane is at 700psi (give or take) no mater what type of tank you have. This needs to then go into a regulator, this is what makes it low or high pressure. The confusion may have come from that fact that a large low pressure reg is built into many big tank systems, so to get high pressure you would need to tap into the line before the reg.
Also there was some confusion (back somewhere) about what high and low pressure was. Low pressure propane is 11 water column inches (11WC) which is about 0.4 PSI. Anything more than that is high pressure. A 5 PSI system is high pressure, and so is a 30 psi system.
Low pressure for NG is 4 to 7 WC and as NG has fewer BTU's per cubic foot you need a much larger orifice than for even LP LPG.

DrJerryrigger said:

Yeah, this is true. Liquid propane is at 700psi (give or take) no mater what type of tank you have. This needs to then go into a regulator, this is what makes it low or high pressure. The confusion may have come from that fact that a large low pressure reg is built into many big tank systems, so to get high pressure you would need to tap into the line before the reg.
Also there was some confusion (back somewhere) about what high and low pressure was. Low pressure propane is 11 water column inches (11WC) which is about 0.4 PSI. Anything more than that is high pressure. A 5 PSI system is high pressure, and so is a 30 psi system.
Low pressure for NG is 4 to 7 WC and as NG has fewer BTU's per cubic foot you need a much larger orifice than for even LP LPG.

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You are on the right track, but 700 psi? No way! Anywhere from 100-200 psi with a maximum of 250 psi. All propane service pressure relief valves are set at 250 psi. Propane pressure fluctuates with temperature, cold temp is lower pressure in the tank vs. when it is hot.

okgasdude said:

You are on the right track, but 700 psi? No way! Anywhere from 100-200 psi with a maximum of 250 psi. All propane service pressure relief valves are set at 250 psi. Propane pressure fluctuates with temperature, cold temp is lower pressure in the tank vs. when it is hot.

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Oh sorry, I was thinking in kPa and writing in PSI.