Best burner? Hurricane VS Jet VS Banjo?

[HomeBrewFoSho]

Yea, that looks like a good deal, 3 burners from them $120 shipped. 3 burners from Agrisupply.com $119.35 shipped. I wonder who has the better customer service? After being burnt by Firehousecatering customer service is my deciding factor.

Go ahead and regulate your NG pressure down and see what kind of flame you get. Have you looked into this at all? Your not going to get 11 wc after your NG meter

 

[kladue]

With residential NG supply pressure at 4" - 7" WC a regulator is not needed for the attended brewing system burners, you are controlling the flame size. The standing pilot gas valves use a built in regulator as a control valve for the appliance burner firing rate, and are nearly immune to changes in system pressure from other loads.

 

[ajwillys]

FWIW, I have the Hurricane burner and 'conversion valve' from Williams and I have a regulator for propane (obviously), but not for NG. The pressure is low enough already that it isn't needed. Sometimes, I think it could be a bit more actually.

 

[GNBrews]

Yea, that looks like a good deal, 3 burners from them $120 shipped. 3 burners from Agrisupply.com $119.35 shipped. I wonder who has the better customer service? After being burnt by Firehousecatering customer service is my deciding factor.

I've had excellent luck with them. I placed an order early last month, and they had a tracking number emailed to me within 12hrs.

 

[sjwelna]

With residential NG supply pressure at 4" - 7" WC a regulator is not needed for the attended brewing system burners, you are controlling the flame size. The standing pilot gas valves use a built in regulator as a control valve for the appliance burner firing rate, and are nearly immune to changes in system pressure from other loads.

FWIW I just checked my gas regulator in the house after the 2 psi main and it says 7"-11" so I should be good to go without a regulator on my Hurricane I just ordered.

-Steve

 

[vincemash]

can someone confirm what i am doing, I bought 3 banjo burners. I have a 3/4 " natural gas line where I will be brewing, I also ordered 3 of the Williams Brewing hurricane NG conversion valves.

I will be connecting the burners to the NG with the large diameter yellow flex line sold for hot water heaters.

In addition to the valves I bought I will have to drill out the orifice that came with the burnes, I should start small and work my way up until the flame is where I want it.

Does this all sound correct before I screw something up?

Thanks

 

[samc]

If you bought the NG conversion valves you should be using them without drilling. After testing you might need some adjustment to orifice size, but that is hard to tell at this point. I found them to be a bit too big for my set up. If you have a 3/4" line you will need some reducer fitting to get down to the size of the conversion valve.

 

[vincemash]

If you bought the NG conversion valves you should be using them without drilling. After testing you might need some adjustment to orifice size, but that is hard to tell at this point. I found them to be a bit too big for my set up. If you have a 3/4" line you will need some reducer fitting to get down to the size of the conversion valve.

I had planned on installing the Williams Brewing valves on a gas manifold, and run flex line from the valve to the burner.....the burner comes with a flare fitting with a small orifice on the burner side....this is what I was thinking would need drilling....thoughts?

 

[samc]

No - you need to put the right sized valve in the burner itself. You could drill out the original valves supplied with the banjo and then run the gas from the manifold directly in. Do not choked down the supply by using two valves - don't think it will work.

 

[Bobby_M]

I had planned on installing the Williams Brewing valves on a gas manifold, and run flex line from the valve to the burner.....the burner comes with a flare fitting with a small orifice on the burner side....this is what I was thinking would need drilling....thoughts?

No, the conversion valves are a valve + orifice as one piece. It has to thread directly into the the hole in the air damper. You can run remote valves but then at that point you kinda wasted money on the NG conversion when the stock orifices could have been drilled out.

 

[vincemash]

No, the conversion valves are a valve + orifice as one piece. It has to thread directly into the the hole in the air damper. You can run remote valves but then at that point you kinda wasted money on the NG conversion when the stock orifices could have been drilled out.

Thanks for the replies, I'm thinking I will just try drilling the stock orifices and use some off the shelf gas valves from home depot to control the flame on each burner. I'll just return the WB conversion valves.

 

[vincemash]

Thanks for the replies, I'm thinking I will just try drilling the stock orifices and use some off the shelf gas valves from home depot to control the flame on each burner. I'll just return the WB conversion valves.

Okay another question....will the standard gas ball valves be adequate to control the flame on these or will I need some sort of needle valve?

thanks

 

[ajwillys]

The WB conversion is a valve and orifice in one as bobby said. You could drill out the one you have or keep both (so you can still use LP). The valve that's attached to the orifice already is what you should use to control the flow.

In my setup, I have 1/2" hose run from my NG line to the orifice/valve. The exact hookup is this:

Black Iron hard plumbed -> On/off valve -> QD -> 10' 1/2" hose -> QD -> Orifice/Valve Conversion from WB -> Burner

 

[vincemash]

The WB conversion is a valve and orifice in one as bobby said. You could drill out the one you have or keep both (so you can still use LP). The valve that's attached to the orifice already is what you should use to control the flow.

In my setup, I have 1/2" hose run from my NG line to the orifice/valve. The exact hookup is this:

Black Iron hard plumbed -> On/off valve -> QD -> 10' 1/2" hose -> QD -> Orifice/Valve Conversion from WB -> Burner

Thanks all for the comments.

I got one burner plumbed and drilled my orifices yesterday ...worked my way up till the flame was where I wanted it.

I have 3/4 Black pipe at the source, connected a yellow gas flex line made for furnaces to this, then it goes to my stand where I made a 1/2" black pipe manifold. The 3 valves on the manifold go from 1/2" FPT to 3/8" Flare...I hooked up the burners with 3/8" copper tube and flare fittings.

Initial results, these things put out a TON of heat.....I was almost afraid to fire up the burner without a kettle on there cause I could feel the heat all the way on the ceiling of the garage.

I'll get some pic's posted this week in the brew stand thread.

If anyone is looking for the Williams brewing conversion valves, I have 3 on the way to me and I see they are now sold out online.....I can ship them to you at my cost plus shipping as I don't need them anymore:

http://www.williamsbrewing.com/HURRICANE_CONVERSION_VALVE_P2214C87.cfm



Thanks
Vince

 

[oceanselv]

Forgive my ignorance when it comes to plumbing matters. Can I take the burner off my Brinkmann turkey fryer and replace it with a hurricane or banjo burner? Here is the Brinkmann I have http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc...splay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053. I've measure the stand and I believe it will fit. What other modifications if any would I need to do? My current burner works great with 5 gallon batches and an aluminum pot. I do have to worry about boil overs. I've upgraded to a 10 gallon stainless pot but it takes almost and hour for my current burner to heat the wort to boiling.

 

[humann_brewing]

So all this talk about the burners but where is the best place to get the flexible gas line and valve if you have to split the gas between 3 burners?

 

[bdgrfrisch]

I see this has been dead for a while - as Oceanselv asked - can a banjo burner be retrofit into another "cooker"?
I'm thinking of doing this to my Camp Chef. I love the stand and the legs for draining into the carboy, but would like to put a banjo burner in it as well......
Cheers.

 

[Timay3977]

Williams has Hurricane Low Pressure Burners for $38.90!!!

 

[marlinharwell]

Just so you don't get in trouble with the wrong parts, a 20# BBQ propane tank is a high pressure supply, low pressure would be a large tank set up to run a furnace.

Just to confirm the earlier statement. You can use the 20# cylinder for either low or high pressure. It all depends on your regulator. My family owns several propane companies all across the southeast so I can assure you, this is 100% accurate.

 

[DrJerryrigger]

Just to confirm the earlier statement. You can use the 20# cylinder for either low or high pressure. It all depends on your regulator. My family owns several propane companies all across the southeast so I can assure you, this is 100% accurate.

Yeah, this is true. Liquid propane is at 700psi (give or take) no mater what type of tank you have. This needs to then go into a regulator, this is what makes it low or high pressure. The confusion may have come from that fact that a large low pressure reg is built into many big tank systems, so to get high pressure you would need to tap into the line before the reg.
Also there was some confusion (back somewhere) about what high and low pressure was. Low pressure propane is 11 water column inches (11WC) which is about 0.4 PSI. Anything more than that is high pressure. A 5 PSI system is high pressure, and so is a 30 psi system.
Low pressure for NG is 4 to 7 WC and as NG has fewer BTU's per cubic foot you need a much larger orifice than for even LP LPG.

 

[okgasdude]

Yeah, this is true. Liquid propane is at 700psi (give or take) no mater what type of tank you have. This needs to then go into a regulator, this is what makes it low or high pressure. The confusion may have come from that fact that a large low pressure reg is built into many big tank systems, so to get high pressure you would need to tap into the line before the reg.
Also there was some confusion (back somewhere) about what high and low pressure was. Low pressure propane is 11 water column inches (11WC) which is about 0.4 PSI. Anything more than that is high pressure. A 5 PSI system is high pressure, and so is a 30 psi system.
Low pressure for NG is 4 to 7 WC and as NG has fewer BTU's per cubic foot you need a much larger orifice than for even LP LPG.

You are on the right track, but 700 psi? No way! Anywhere from 100-200 psi with a maximum of 250 psi. All propane service pressure relief valves are set at 250 psi. Propane pressure fluctuates with temperature, cold temp is lower pressure in the tank vs. when it is hot.

 

[DrJerryrigger]

You are on the right track, but 700 psi? No way! Anywhere from 100-200 psi with a maximum of 250 psi. All propane service pressure relief valves are set at 250 psi. Propane pressure fluctuates with temperature, cold temp is lower pressure in the tank vs. when it is hot.

Oh sorry, I was thinking in kPa and writing in PSI.