getting started with small batches in the Caribbean

I live in the Caribbean and don’t have access to “proper” beer (only a couple of commercial, artificial lagers). I like decent beer (ales, porter, etc.) but don’t drink a huge amount of it (even when its available). I am thinking of getting into home brewing (already read the beginners section of the joy of homebrewing) but have a couple of concerns:

1) I see that temperature is an issue, if I use the water/ice baths described elsewhere on here will I be OK? How long will I need to keep the temperature down (usual room temp is around 26-32 C)?

2) Making 5 gallons means I’ll end up drinking one batch for far too long (I usually get through less than a 6 pack in a weekend even when good stuff is available) and I don’t really have the storage space for about 4 creates of bottles per batch. Am I better to scale down in a large system or can I get smaller equipment?

Any thoughts/comments/advice greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance

For equipment, you can get smaller fermentation vessels and that's what I'd do. Scale your recipes accordingly. You want something with enough headspace that it won't blow out during primary. There's really no "too much" in this, within reason. If you can find a 3-gallon carboy, go with that.

As for temperatures, for ales you'll probably want to keep your primary in the 60s F (under 20C) for at least the first 48-96 hours, and if you can do that you might as well keep it there for the full fermentation. Higher than that is where you start to develop fruity flavors and fusel alcohols in higher degrees. If you can't get a small enough secondary to minimize headspace (to prevent oxidation) then you can leave it in the primary, many people do that anyway and get good - possibly better - results. I'd find a 3 gallon vessel and brew 2 gallon batches, leave it in there until you are ready to bottle. Once you get the brew in the bottle, temperature is less of a concern, though above 25C is kinda high.

I've actually read that 26C or so is about the threshold for those fusel alcohols, though, but lower is better. Once you get them, they don't dissipate and they can really screw up a brew. The other thing you can do to hedge your bets is to make a yeast starter and pitch at good temps, and aerate your wort really well before pitching. If the yeast are happy, they'll return the favor.

Those are my thoughts. Correct me if I'm wrong on anything.

There's a ton of threads on here for small batch brewing including some in the similar threads box below. I've also put together a detailed post on it here.

You can still do 5 gallon batches, but pitch different types of yeast onto 2 3-gal carboys. 2 beers for the work of 1. Dry hopping or secondary additions broaden the possibilities even further.

Here's my two cents from experience,

1. Your question about temperature is relative to the style. You probably already know about the diff between fermenting laguar and ale so I won't bore youe you . I brew ales almost exclusively and always ferment around 75f to 80f and never have had any temp problems. Ice baths using a cooler will work if you can't reach this temp any other way.

@. batch size, I make alot of half batches (2.5 gal) I use all the same equipment for them as I do 5 gal except for the kettle.You could buy smaller coolers for spargers and mash tons but really it would just be an added cost if you already have stuff for 5 gal batches.

Cheers

OK, so temperature might not be a problem then. If it is only the first few days where it is critical I can always leave it in a suitably airconditioned room, moving it to a slightly warmer room (or turning off the aircon) after a few days.

As for batch size, I keep going back to the Mr Beer (I read Revvy's, and others, positive comments on another thread) but I'm worried i might just be wasting my money and might be better going for one of the beginner kits from one of the various homebrew retailers (such as http://www.ebay.com/itm/True-Brew-K...012?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3cbae79574). Based on comments above it looks like I would be fine brewing 2.5 gal in this type of kit.

Hey Tiredboy,

Did you get started? I am based on MoBay and of the exact same mind set at the moment. I would be interested to hear how you are getting on with the heat before I start gathering equipment together.

Chuffy2

Hi chuffy2,

I ended up setting the fermenting bucket up in the bedroom and running the AC 24/7 for 2 weeks for the ferment. Can't really comment on the success yet as tonight is tasting (its been in the bottle for 3 weeks now). I'll let you know.

The biggest problem is cost of getting the kit down here but if you sort that then you should be OK (there is a brewshop about 25 minutes drive south of Miami airport if you find yourself up that way, but check what they have first as I cleared them out of DME yesterday!).

Before I brew my next batch I intend on getting a small chest freezer and temperature controller to save having to run AC all the time and I'll use it as a cool store for food/beer when not fermenting.

Tiredboy said:

The biggest problem is cost of getting the kit down here but if you sort that then you should be OK (there is a brewshop about 25 minutes drive south of Miami airport if you find yourself up that way, but check what they have first as I cleared them out of DME yesterday!).

Before I brew my next batch I intend on getting a small chest freezer and temperature controller to save having to run AC all the time and I'll use it as a cool store for food/beer when not fermenting.

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I don't know, sounds to me like the most expensive part would be running the AC for two weeks- I hope that beer turns out! The fermentation chamber sounds like a good idea. Let us know how everything goes:rockin:

I'm not sure what extra cost was incurred running the AC 24/7 rather than night time only as it meant that the doors and windows were closed so it only needed to maintain temperature rather than cooling the room down every day (open doors and windows during day usually to air).

However, the most important bit is that I tasted the beer last night and it is fantastic!! So it appears that fermenting for 2 weeks in a room maintained at around 73 degrees (measured near fermentor) did not make the beer undrinkable. I can't say whether it would have been any better if it had fermented cooler but the beer is really good - if I had a bottle of it in a bar, I would happily order more as its better than many I've drunk when I've been out (and certainly beats what I can get locally).

In case it helps anyone else (including chuffy2), here are the details (including mistakes I thought could cause problems):

1) DME kit of Our Special Holiday Ale (21B) from Austin Homebrew (anchor clone).
2) Didn't have a big enough pot so split between 3 for hop additions and hops divided accordingly (https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f39/help-i-dont-have-big-enough-brew-pot-278196/#post3470005)
3) Added the "gunk" (can't remember official term) from the pots to the fermentor. Actually made an effort to include it, didn't realise it should stay in boiling pots!
4) Used Muntons premium gold ale dry yeast and BrewVint yeast fuel
5) Temperature control was putting a room thermomenter near the fermentor and maintainign room at 73 degrees based on thermometer. Also put femrnting bucket in a tub of water to minimise any temperature fluctuations and hopefully conduct any produced heat away from fermentinfg bucket.
6) Left it in primary fermentor for 2 weeks exactly (didn't have hydrometer to test it but instructions said 5-7 days in primary followed by same in secondary - and yes, I was one of those people that panicked that I needed a secondary even after what people here said - https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f39/how-long-primary-if-no-secondary-279288/)
7) Tasted OK when bottling but a bit too hoppy and pretty cloudy
8) Bottled in combination of bottles ranging from 11.5oz red stripe stubbies to 19.2oz cider bottles and everything in between (although all but one were brown glass)
9) Bottled one in clear glass so I could see how it was progressing (ie whether it was clearing). Can't remember where I saw/heard this tip but if I find the link I'll give credit where credit is due.
10) Bottles left in a covered plastic box (to contain any potential bottle bombs) in an unconditioned room (78-80 degrees) for 3 weeks exactly. Didn't open box during the three weeks but that was because I was away, not sure I would have had willpower if I'd been at home!
11) 1 night in the fridge then tasted and it was fantastic. Now to see how it improves over time (some in fridge, some still in plastic box).

A bit of a long post but I know that all the advice I got on this forum really helped me so wanted to post some feedback as a first time brewer. As the phrase goes RDWHAHB (even if it's hard to relax becuase you think its gone wrong!).

Next stop, chest freezer, temp controller and a bigger boil pot, ingredients for batch 2 already on dining room table!!

I've brewed beer that I liked when I had it fermenting at 72 (room temperature up here) but now that I can ferment it cooler (62 to 65) I look back and think how much better it has become. I think you will like your beer even better if you can control the temperature and keep it cooler for at least the first week of the fermentation. If you get a controller set up, after a week I think you should let the beer warm up closer to the 72 mark as I think that encourages the yeast to complete the ferment.

RM-MN said:

I've brewed beer that I liked when I had it fermenting at 72 (room temperature up here) but now that I can ferment it cooler (62 to 65) I look back and think how much better it has become. I think you will like your beer even better if you can control the temperature and keep it cooler for at least the first week of the fermentation. If you get a controller set up, after a week I think you should let the beer warm up closer to the 72 mark as I think that encourages the yeast to complete the ferment.

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This is what I have been doing. I start to ferment at around 64 and then after it slows down I raise the temp to 68-70 and let it finish up at the higher temp. It seems to be working out very well.

Just a few things about your process:

3) the "gunk" is called break material, usually cold break from cooling down your wort. It's coagulated proteins and other stuff falling out of solution. It's totally fine to put it into your fermentor. I always put it in, but some people are anal about keeping it out. I'm not sure the reason, though I've heard that having too much break in the fermentor can contribute back to having chill haze, which getting a good cold break is supposed to eliminate in the first place.

7) beers for me always taste extra bitter before they're done. Partly because the hops mellow with age, partly because the beer is green, and partly because conditioned and carbonated beer tastes very different. I always discount the hoppiness by about 25% or more when tasting a hydrometer reading.

Glad it went so well. With your temperatures under control, your beer will only improve!

Thanks for the feedback Tiredboy - glad to hear it all worked out. I'm starting to pull together a few bits and pieces from my previous days of homebrewing and will pick up the rest in the New Year (planning a visit to Miami now).

Thanks again.

Chuffy2

There's also a shop in North Miami that I have had recomended, can't remember details but can look it up if you want. Depends on where you're going. If you find any other good shops (or anyone else has recomendations) in Miami then I'd love to hear them.