Help with RIMS controller

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Noidios

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I am about ready to wire everything up and everything seems straight forward to me except the contactor coil. The layout of the coils connections is different on the schematic than the actual coil I received form Auberins.com. Can someone please tell me which terminals relate to which position on the diagram?

Wiring Diagram (piece in question is near the top right):
Auberin-wiring1-SYL-2352-basic5-RIMS.jpg


Actual Coil:
coil.jpg





I also just noticed that the diagram states that the element MUST be a LWD 2000w. Will this element that I already have workinstead?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000KKVZUO/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I would contact P-J and ask him directly. He is a great fellow who will not steer you wrong and he has designed many of the systems that a bunch of us use. It may take a day or two, but he will answer and give you the correct answer. Be patient fer a day or two,

Wheelchair Bob
 
That coil accommodates several connection types. There are spade connectors on the each side. Look for L1 or T1 (Load 1 or Terminal 1). Connect your source to T1 and T2 and the corresponding load on the other side L1 and L2. i.e. - put the hots on 1 and the neutrals on 2.

For the coil - those connectors are on the long sides of the contactor. The coil is a simple, though powerful, electromagnet. It does not matter which side is hot or neutral. There are 2 spade connectors on each side so they can be daisy chained together for switching several large loads (like a several large runs of fluorescent lights) at one time. Hook the hot on one side and the neutral on the other side.

Paul

I am about ready to wire everything up and everything seems straight forward to me except the contactor coil. The layout of the coils connections is different on the schematic than the actual coil I received form Auberins.com. Can someone please tell me which terminals relate to which position on the diagram?

Actual Coil:
coil.jpg





I also just noticed that the diagram states that the element MUST be a LWD 2000w. Will this element that I already have workinstead?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000KKVZUO/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Thanks for the help guys. I appreciate it lots. P-J doesn't accept private messages, but I think that I understand now. Can you tell me if this revised diagram looks correct to you?
Thanks
contactor.jpg
 
Okay, I think my bucket of stupid questions has only two left. Noidios, sorry, but your build is exactly what I'm looking to do, so I keep posting my questions on your threads :D

Stupid Question #1: How in the heck do you attach the wires to the contactor? Is there some sort of female device to put at the end of the wire to place over the metal prongs on the contractor?

Stupid Question #2 (this one's a doozy): How do you affix the various components such as the SSR, contactor, etc. to the enclosure itself? Screws? Adhesive?

Thanks to everyone for their patience!
 
Okay, I think my bucket of stupid questions has only two left. Noidios, sorry, but your build is exactly what I'm looking to do, so I keep posting my questions on your threads :D

Stupid Question #1: How in the heck do you attach the wires to the contactor? Is there some sort of female device to put at the end of the wire to place over the metal prongs on the contractor?

Stupid Question #2 (this one's a doozy): How do you affix the various components such as the SSR, contactor, etc. to the enclosure itself? Screws? Adhesive?

Thanks to everyone for their patience!

Bumpity-Bump. I'm hoping to start wiring tonight, so if anyone can offer advice regarding these questions, I'd be very, very grateful.
 
Okay, I think my bucket of stupid questions has only two left. Noidios, sorry, but your build is exactly what I'm looking to do, so I keep posting my questions on your threads :D

Stupid Question #1: How in the heck do you attach the wires to the contactor? Is there some sort of female device to put at the end of the wire to place over the metal prongs on the contractor?

Stupid Question #2 (this one's a doozy): How do you affix the various components such as the SSR, contactor, etc. to the enclosure itself? Screws? Adhesive?

Thanks to everyone for their patience!

1. They're called (female) blade connectors. They get crimped or soldered to the wire and slide over the terminal (blade).

2. I prefer screws or bolts, so things don't snap out when the glue/cement gives out.

If you have to ask these questions, are you sure you want to build this yourself? You're dealing with some serious voltages and currents there.
 
1. They're called (female) blade connectors. They get crimped or soldered to the wire and slide over the terminal (blade).

2. I prefer screws or bolts, so things don't snap out when the glue/cement gives out.

If you have to ask these questions, are you sure you want to build this yourself? You're dealing with some serious voltages and currents there.

Thank you. And, regarding your latter point, I hear you. You know, I started off saying no, I don't want to build it myself. In fact, I started a separate thread asking where I could buy something commercially (all of the ones I know of are crazy complicated for full electric breweries--I'm just looking to run a 1500W element, a PID, and a pump). Lots of folks on this forum have convinced me that it's not that difficult to do, and truly, I'm sure I can follow a wiring diagram. To be sure, though, this would be the first time I've done anything like this, so some of the elementary basics (like the ones I asked here) I obviously need to learn. I do have second thoughts at times, but, again, I keep reasoning that so long I connect the components exactly as diagramed, I should be fine.
 
To address your #1 question - C1 and C2 (on the drawing) are the only points that actually need the quick connects / blade connectors. The blades on the T and L sides can be removed, and is actually what I did - then you can use the screw terminal to clamp down on the wire, giving you a much more secure connection. As said, if you use the blade connectors / quick connects, make sure you crimp and or solder (I did both) them really well, otherwise you're introduced a resistance point and it can cause failure.

#2 - Bolting is definitely the way to go. Many of the panels in use have a secondary 'back' inside the panel, that you can drill holes in and mount components to, without actually penetrating the exterior of the box.

As far as building it - I would have to agree. You are asking some very basic questions that might imply that this is your first go at any sort of electrical wiring. Yes, it's easy to do - one wire goes here, the other goes there, plug it in and you're set. It's also VERY easy to screw up - crossed wires, or even single stray strands from a wire can cause problems. And with electricity, especially with the voltages you're dealing with, when things go bad they can go real bad. You could destroy one of your components, shock yourself, or start a fire. Only you know how meticulous you are - how likely are you to accidentally cross a wire or miss a stray strand? How likely are you to plug it in before triple checking that everything is plugged in? If you've undertaken other DIY / build projects before and have the mind-set to get it right the first time, then you'll have no problem here. If you have a half dozen lop-sided IKEA book shelves and coffee tables in your house - this may not be the project to go at alone.

Not trying to talk you out of it, just make sure you're fully aware of what you're getting into. Maybe you have a friend with some electrical experience that could help you out? That'd be a win-win!

-Kevin
 
To address your #1 question - C1 and C2 (on the drawing) are the only points that actually need the quick connects / blade connectors. The blades on the T and L sides can be removed, and is actually what I did - then you can use the screw terminal to clamp down on the wire, giving you a much more secure connection. As said, if you use the blade connectors / quick connects, make sure you crimp and or solder (I did both) them really well, otherwise you're introduced a resistance point and it can cause failure.

#2 - Bolting is definitely the way to go. Many of the panels in use have a secondary 'back' inside the panel, that you can drill holes in and mount components to, without actually penetrating the exterior of the box.

As far as building it - I would have to agree. You are asking some very basic questions that might imply that this is your first go at any sort of electrical wiring. Yes, it's easy to do - one wire goes here, the other goes there, plug it in and you're set. It's also VERY easy to screw up - crossed wires, or even single stray strands from a wire can cause problems. And with electricity, especially with the voltages you're dealing with, when things go bad they can go real bad. You could destroy one of your components, shock yourself, or start a fire. Only you know how meticulous you are - how likely are you to accidentally cross a wire or miss a stray strand? How likely are you to plug it in before triple checking that everything is plugged in? If you've undertaken other DIY / build projects before and have the mind-set to get it right the first time, then you'll have no problem here. If you have a half dozen lop-sided IKEA book shelves and coffee tables in your house - this may not be the project to go at alone.

Not trying to talk you out of it, just make sure you're fully aware of what you're getting into. Maybe you have a friend with some electrical experience that could help you out? That'd be a win-win!

-Kevin

I hear you, and thank you for your thoughts. I've done basic wiring and electrical work in my house (like switches, receptacles, ceiling fants, etc.). I've just never assembled components into an empty box before, and some of the conections I've not seen until this point.
 

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