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Ballast points sculpin IPA

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Thanks. I will use that yeast rather than my recovered one.

I did this clone as an all grain BIAB. Seemed to go well but I missed my targets: OG = 1.065 instead of 1.076. I pitched the recovered yeast from a fresh bottle of Sculpin IPA (I guess I lied when I said I would use WLP001 unless that is what this is, some say its WLP028).

The day after I brewed I tasted my first bottle of Red IPA that I did with recovered Stone IPA yeast and it was horrible. I suspected from the tastes on transfer to the secondary and to bottles. Strong taste of apple cider vinegar and rubber. Made me very nervous. I suspect the problem was the yeast I recovered. There were very few viable yeast from that bottle.

Well, this one is wonderful. 6 days after pitching I am down to 1.090, exactly the amount below my target FG that I was below my target OG. And the beer tastes great. Hoppy, dry, malty goodness (flat and warm but who's complaining).

So, I'll toss the Stone yeast and try that one again. The Sculpin yeast is a keeper.
 
6 days after pitching I am down to 1.090, exactly the amount below my target FG that I was below my target OG. And the beer tastes great. Hoppy, dry, malty goodness (flat and warm but who's complaining).

That should be 1.009, of course.
 
Tried recipe listed above about two and a half months ago. Fudged the hop bill a bit, but it worked out beautifully. The sediment was extreme, though. I didn't realize (as someone new to brewing) that the dry-hopping adds a TON to the sediment and that another fermentation is probably best. That said - after a month, the flavor was a bit sweet and citrusy; after two months it was amazing, and the clarity was enhanced giving it a dusty-orange color. Many thanks for the recipes!
 
The day after I brewed I tasted my first bottle of Red IPA that I did with recovered Stone IPA yeast and it was horrible.

At a beer tasting a couple months back I talked to a guy from stone about the yeast in the bottle.. He said they filter out all the yeast prior to bottling then use a different strain just for bottling.. Might explain why it sucked??
 
Went to ballast point on Monday during San Diego beer week and had Habenero sculpin. Amazing stuff. I am going to use this recipe and hopefully not to many Habeneros and see what happens. If who ever has friends over there can find out what they would add to give gallons I would appreciate it greatly.
 
You can just call their homebrew mart on linda vista and ask them for guidence. I'm sure it's something they get asked like 5 times per day.
 
Wow! Brewed it 6 days ago, took a gravity today and drank the sample. Awesome beer! This will be my go to ipa from now on, assuming I can get the hops
 
I assume steeping grains are not required for this brew? I haven't yet done an extract brew that didn't include some type of steeping grains.
 
Also, if I figure out the O.G. of the extract version based on using DME, I come up with slightly less than 1.060. In order to get to the target ABV of 7.0%, that means the final gravity reading would need to be less than 1.010. Where am I going wrong here? Based on what people are saying, the O.G. should be around 1.065 and with a target abv of 7.0, that would mean the F.G. would fall somewhere between 1.012 and 1.016.
 
I did this clone as an all grain BIAB. Seemed to go well but I missed my targets: OG = 1.065 instead of 1.076. I pitched the recovered yeast from a fresh bottle of Sculpin IPA (I guess I lied when I said I would use WLP001 unless that is what this is, some say its WLP028).

The day after I brewed I tasted my first bottle of Red IPA that I did with recovered Stone IPA yeast and it was horrible. I suspected from the tastes on transfer to the secondary and to bottles. Strong taste of apple cider vinegar and rubber. Made me very nervous. I suspect the problem was the yeast I recovered. There were very few viable yeast from that bottle.

Well, this one is wonderful. 6 days after pitching I am down to 1.090, exactly the amount below my target FG that I was below my target OG. And the beer tastes great. Hoppy, dry, malty goodness (flat and warm but who's complaining).

So, I'll toss the Stone yeast and try that one again. The Sculpin yeast is a keeper.

My mind is blown. These guys use clean & easy to acquire yeast. Just buy a vial & starter it. Plus there's no guarantee you get the house strain (if any) from the bottle.
 
beerandloathinginaustin said:
My mind is blown. These guys use clean & easy to acquire yeast. Just buy a vial & starter it. Plus there's no guarantee you get the house strain (if any) from the bottle.

I have by now used this yeast to brew more than ten batches of beer. IPA, black IPA, RIS. I have also rescued yeast from Pranqster and a few others. I always grow big starters and all have gone very well except for the old bottle of Stone IPA which I tossed. Most bottle conditioned beers are conditioned with the brewing yeast. One should used fresh bottles for recovery. I always colony purify and confirm there is no contamination. I then stock the yeast using proper methods.

So, I ask, why is your mind blown?
 
I guess I just associate dreg harvesting in my own brewing with getting things I can't get from liquid yeast. Jolly Pumpkin's wildness, strains of Brett, new saison yeasts etc. Seems easier to grab a $7 vial of Cali 001 when that's what I need.
 
Well, I can grab one of a dozen or so stocked 50 ml vials of concentrated yeast and do an overnight starter for free any time I want. Just like my own White labs. Admittedly, not everyone has the resources to do this. I should also say, I am not sure that Sculpin yeast is WLP001. Do we know for sure? I'm sure its not critical but may affect outcome. Just made one of my favorite IPAs using it. In fact, I called it Brewitt's Favorite IPA. :mug:
 
The recipe they give out in the store recommends WLP001 IIRC but I didn't take that to mean that is what they use in the store. White Labs stocks proprietary yeast for some breweries, Stone for example. Nevertheless, I'm sure it is certainly very close to the same thing.
 
I haven't put the time into putting a clone recipe together for this, but I can tell you everyone's gravitates are waayyyyyyyy off. It's a 1.063/1.008 beer.

Sculpin is extremly dry. I'd say that hitting a terminal gravity of 1.010 or lower is your number one priority with the grain bill. I'm assuming they mash very low, and add carapils to give the beer body. WLP001 seems fitting due to the desired attenuation.

The hop bill for any other brewery sounds ridiculous, but keep in mind that ballast point grew out of a homebrew shop, so they need a full selection of hops in stock for their home brew customers. Personally, I'd see no problem with simplifying the bittering addition. Maybe .75oz Warrior and .5oz CTZ.

The rest looks about right. People overestimate the necessity of of flameout hops in this beer. It has a massive dry hop character, so I'd guess it looks pretty close.

Again, adjust the target OG and FG, and the recipe looks pretty dead on
 
My clone gives 1.065 OG and 1.007 FG and I think it hits pretty close to the mark. Typically I get 80-84% attenuation with yeast recovered from the bottle. It's my go to yeast and is like or the same as 001.
 
Sounds like you're right on the money then.

I saw 1.014 as a FG posted earlier in thread (last year), and just wanted to point out that's 6 points higher than it should be.
 
i said i had the recipe last night when i woke up this morning my inbox was filled soo here u go I got this recipe from the ballast point its a extract recipe i have yet to make it but used parts that i liked from it to create something new this ale is a more citrus like Ipa but with a kick let me know how it comes out CHeers:mug:

EXTRACT:
6 lbs Dried light malt extract (DME)
1 lbs corn sugar

HOPS
60 minutes
.50 oz warrior
.50 oz Magnum
.25 oz northern brewer
.25 oz columbus

30 minutes
.50 oz crystal
.25 oz centennial
.25 oz Simcoe

0 minutes
1.0 oz Amarillo

DRY HOP
2.0 oz of Amarillo
2.0 oz of Simcoe

YEAST
White labs california Ale yeast wlp001

I'm thinking about giving this a go in a week or so. I recently tried Sculpin for the first time a couple of weeks ago and I think I'm in love. We have a new store in town with 60 beers on tap for growler fills and I keep buying the Sculpin. I just can't get away from it.

My concern is that I'm not set up for a full boil yet. My current kettle is only 3.5 G so I can get away with a 3 G boil if I pay attention. With the decrease in IBUs by using top-off water, am I wasting time trying this before I can do a full boil? Or should I just make a 2.5 G batch? Even with a 2.5 G batch I imagine I'll have to top off a little due to boil off.

Thoughts? Thanks!
 
the beeradvocate recipe IPAAAA posted, which people seem pretty happy with, is giving me over 100 IBUs (Rager: 114! Daniels and Tinseth are just under 100)

Ballast Point website lists Sculpin' at 70 IBUs.

what's the deal?

When I've had the commercial beer, it's been plenty bitter, super dry, and has a lot of hop flavor. Would love to replicate it given the cost here on the East Coast. But should I be adjusting the hopping to get closer to 70 IBUs?
 
what's the deal?

When I've had the commercial beer, it's been plenty bitter, super dry, and has a lot of hop flavor. Would love to replicate it given the cost here on the East Coast. But should I be adjusting the hopping to get closer to 70 IBUs?

No, that's correct. IBU formulas don't work for West Coast IPAs. Pliny calculates at like 240IBU (Rager), where in reality it's around 90.

So just ignore what the formula says, and carry on.
 
I know this is an old conversation, but I wanted to post the following Hop information. This was provided to me by Ballast Point on Monday. No, they did not provide a hop schedule, just the list.

Mash hops: Simcoe
Boil: CTZ, Chinook, Cascade, Northern Brewer, Centennial, Galena, Amarillo
Dry Hop: Amarillo & Simcoe
 
i said i had the recipe last night when i woke up this morning my inbox was filled soo here u go I got this recipe from the ballast point its a extract recipe i have yet to make it but used parts that i liked from it to create something new this ale is a more citrus like Ipa but with a kick let me know how it comes out CHeers:mug:

EXTRACT:
6 lbs Dried light malt extract (DME)
1 lbs corn sugar

HOPS
60 minutes
.50 oz warrior
.50 oz Magnum
.25 oz northern brewer
.25 oz columbus

30 minutes
.50 oz crystal
.25 oz centennial
.25 oz Simcoe

0 minutes
1.0 oz Amarillo

DRY HOP
2.0 oz of Amarillo
2.0 oz of Simcoe

YEAST
White labs california Ale yeast wlp001


Does anyone have a recommendation for the dry hop? Spread it out, or all 4 ounces at once? Duration? Any thoughts will be appreciated. :tank:
 
Does anyone have a recommendation for the dry hop? Spread it out, or all 4 ounces at once? Duration? Any thoughts will be appreciated. :tank:

I would spread it out. You'll get the same dry hop character, just more of it. I like 4-7days per addition, but do whatever you've had success with in the past.

It'll taste like sculpin either way.
 
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