What happened to Eaton GFCI circuit breakers?

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bagbrewer

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Wondering if any of you know why Eaton seems to be more and more scarce lately. I have a Eaton/Cutler Hammer panel with type CH breakers and finding a 240v gfci version seems nearly impossible lately. I'm not sure if they are just not producing this type anymore or if it's a worldwide shortage.
 
I went through this 6-8 months ago with Eaton type BR breakers. I got lucky.... I called an electrician friend who asked around and found me a used one. I only needed 30A. I've been on the hunt since for a 50A just in case I ever want to upgrade.

Good Luck!
:mug:
 
@Deric that might not be a bad idea. I might be able to get a local electrician to source one and sell to me.
 
Call a local electrical distributor/warehouse. If they don't have them they may point you in the right direction.

Alternatively, buy a regular panel breaker, plus a spa (sub)panel (any brand, one that suits the job and your wallet). Spa panels come with their own GFCI breaker, and may cost a lot less than a main panel GFCI. That's the route many people/brewers used to choose here.
 
Call a local electrical distributor/warehouse. If they don't have them they may point you in the right direction.

Alternatively, buy a regular panel breaker, plus a spa (sub)panel (any brand, one that suits the job and your wallet). Spa panels come with their own GFCI breaker, and may cost a lot less than a main panel GFCI. That's the route many people/brewers used to choose here.

That's exactly what I would do. Should be easy to find a standard double-pole breaker for any panel. Then put the Spa Panel at the location for the brewing setup. Spa panels are pretty much always 50 amp, which doesn't matter as long as the breaker in the main panel is rated correctly for the wire installed.

I planned to go that route until I found a GFCI breaker I needed on clearance at Lowes for $8. Almost soiled myself when I found it that cheap.
 
You can get inline 240 VAC GFCI breakers. Not the cheapest solution, but it doesn't stall your brew day either.
 
I bought a spa panel of the same brand as my panel, took the breaker out of it for my main panel, and sold the empty unused panel to someone for $10.

I also needed an Eaton/Cutler Hammer breaker (BR type for me), and I did this ^^ -- except my unused spa-panel is still for sale. Anyway, the price for the spa panel and breaker was less than just the breaker (which was also not in stock anywhere that I could find). I got the spa panel and breaker at a local Lowes. I noticed it hit stock and disappear a few times over the late spring and early summer before I actually bought it. It currently shows as unavailable .... :-/ -- hopefully it comes back soon.
 
I ran into the same problem last year when I replaced my fuse panel with a (large) breaker panel. I did have to use some Siemens breakers but they still fit and did work, even though they cost more. Crazy to see it's still an issue.
 
Thanks for all the replies. I wondered how different one brand/type breakers were from others. From my understanding mixing brands/types was against code. I found some in-line gfci solutions worldcordset's (I think that's right) website. Might have to go that route or spa panel.
 
That's interesting. Seems like a much easier to find and cheaper solution than any other option I've come across.

Edit: reply to @Ozarks_Mountain_Brew suggestion of DIN rail mounted gfci.
 
I do not have any experience with mixing and matching a brand of breaker with a brand of panel.

Seems to me if the power backplane connections are within tolerance and fit together properly, there is no reason you cannot put Brand A breaker in Brand B panel.

The back plane is the crucial place where you need to get a good solid fit between electrical connections.

Having said all that, I would be surprised if any manufacturer sanction only their breakers in their panels or their breakers. In the case of a failure, any mixing and both the breaker maker and the panel maker would disavow any responsibility. (if they found out)

I probably would not do it unless I found an authority that I could trust, 100%.
 
@RufusBrewer I did some Google searching and although I couldn't find a quote from NEC code, the answer I found was that even if it connects it won't fit as intended. Most of what I read suggests where mixing is acceptable, it comes from one company acquiring another like with Eaton & Cutler Hammer and involves additional testing. I could see competing companies not wanting to test all possible configurations so that seems like a reasonable justification for them not wanting to take responsibility in those instances.

The DIN rail solution intrigues me I'm just not clear on what's different about those that makes them so much cheaper than other GFCI solutions. It seems that this would be the preferred method for brew controllers given the price if all else is equal.

edit: @bagbrewer the worldcordset option you found seems like it would make taking everything with you easier than a hard wired circuit panel breaker if that's important to you.
 
I think part of the reason for the lower cost of the DIN rail devices is that the manufacturer cannot lock you into their product line. Any DIN or mini-DIN rain device will fit on the rail and can be wired into the panel, so there is more market competition helping keep the prices sane. With the normal US panel design, in most cases you have to buy the same line to fit the proprietary mounts/interfaces. You are starting to see an effort to counter the universal nature of DIN by manufacturers having custom shapes and switch lever designs so that the fashionable who want their panels to be uniform will buy the same product line.

The other part could be that the device is cheap junk. I don't know the product line or manufacturer, so I cannot offer any commentary on the quality of the devices in question.
 
I think I'm between the DIN rail option and a 30 amp in-line GFCI, barring them being cheap junk. Does anyone have experience with worldcordset? I originally came across them through YouTube while watching @highland_brewer build an in-line GFCI but I don't think I've read any threads sharing user experience with them. Prices are reasonable though.

@Antonio Martinez, yes portability is important to me as I'm in the military and only a few years away from retirement so being able to take it all with me without needing to repair dry wall would be a bonus.
 

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