Used harbor freight punch, cannot seal boil kettle

[vr608]

Hello folks, first post but been lurking here on/off for the past year or so.

I'm currently working on an electric BIAB kettle and as the title explains, I used the HF knockout punch kit on my aluminum 42 quart pot before I realized the hole size is NOT 1-1/4". For those that were successful with the HF kit, what combination of O-rings/gaskets/shims are you using in order to create a leak free seal? I've tried using the silicone gasket supplied with my 5500w heating element (Denord 240v) as well as the 217 O-ring, but neither seems to do the trick. I've also been generous with the teflon tape as well, but that hasn't helped either.

Ideas? Due to the popularity and low price of the HF punch kit, I imagine there has to be some repeatable configuration that will prevent leaks, but so far I haven't come across any in my forum searches. Thanks in advance!

 

[mredge73]

Knockout kits are normally sized to pipe/conduit trade sizes. Did you use the 1" knockout or the 1 1/4" knockout?
If the hole is too big it will never seal and because the pot is aluminum it will be difficult to repair.

You may be able to find a plug/washer/o-ring to fill the hole and punch a new one on the other side.
Silver soldering on aluminum is tricky but you can also try to solder on a ferrule.

 

[woo_pig]

I know 3/4 is actually 1 1/8 and 1 is 1 3/8.

 

[vr608]

I used the 1" punch, which created a 1.362" hole (from what I understand). It would appear that I'm between NPS sizes; I thought about using a 1x1-1/4 NPT bushing, but the thought of enlarging the existing hole to the OD required (1.660) gives me the jitters.

 

[Jwin]

I know it's to late, but for others reading this in the future, use a stepped bit on aluminum pots. They work great on soft metals...
A set of 2 at HF can be had for under $20 and will be way more useful in the future than knockouts.
Just be cautious not to go to far and past the step needed, or partially into the next step, causing a thin wall. Once the hole is drilled, put the bit through the other side of the hole, if you can, and give it a quick spin to help debur.

As to your current situation, maybe look to BobbyM @ brewhardware and/or jaybird. If anyone could fashion a fix for you, would be those guys.

 

[vr608]

OK I'll try to do that. The easiest solution would be some form of bushing that would change a 1" conduit to 1" NPT, but I haven't found such a device anywhere yet.

Hopefully someone else that has used the HF punch to install an element will chime in, it seems that this has been done successfully before.

 

[vr608]

Of course now that I've gone back to look at the punches, it seems that the HF 3/4 punch would have done a better job of getting me to the right size. Lesson learned, need to remember always to measure twice and cut once, as the saying goes.

For now, I've tried using a the 217 o-ring on the interior of the kettle and the gasket that came with the element on the outside, and it appears to be leak free for the moment. I'll have to let it sit for a few hours leak free before attempting a heat test.

 

[mredge73]

Good luck with this, trade sizes will get you if you don't pay attention.
If you ever start looking into soft or hard tubing their trade sizes are not the same as pipe/conduit trade sizes.
Tubing is measured on the OD whereas threaded pipe is measured on the ID. So you can actually run 1/2" tubing inside a 1/2" pipe.

 

[vr608]

So the latest on this is that I decided to take the plunge and expand the existing hole to the next knockout size up, 1-1/4, which appears to be 1-5/8" actual (about 42mm according to my digital caliper). Along with a 1 x 1-1/4 bushing, 222 o-ring and 1-1/4 locknut, I've finally gotten this thing sealed. Part of my decision in doing this is to give myself the option to upgrading to a 1.5" TC connection, which I'm seriously considering at this point. I like the idea of being able to easily remove the element in order to properly clean my kettle between brewing sessions.

So if anyone is using the HF punches and a 42 gallon aluminum pot (should work with stainless too), the above materials work well in getting a good seal. I found that you really have to crank down on the locknut in order to get a leak free seal (just make sure the locknut has a groove for the o-ring so as to not deform it). Of course, you'll also need a 217 o-ring for the connection between the element and the bushing, along with teflon tape around the element threads.

 

[JONNYROTTEN]

...

 

[JONNYROTTEN]

I like the idea of being able to easily remove the element in order to properly clean my kettle between brewing sessions.

You never have to remove the element. I just use a sponge on mine after brew day. It was getting crusty after a few years. So I dry fired it not that long ago...I'll admit it made me nervous...It got cherry red smoked like no tomorrow but it instantly looked like a brand new element and stills works fine.

 

[vr608]

I actually meant having the ability to easily clean the area where the element enters the kettle, since there is normally a locknut and o-ring there with a weldless setup. Even though it is probably going to be sanitized during boiling, being able to really get in there and periodically clean any debris stuck in there is definitely advantage in my opinion.

 

[Morrey]

For those who are reading this thread as they may be planning to drill a kettle, I was successful drilling my Blichmann 10G non electric kettle last week to add a whirlpool arm kit.

This is my second kettle I have done, and I would never use anything but a step bit. Stainless tends to heat up your bit and can cause heat damage to bit and kettle quickly. I did a 1/8" pilot hole while a helper continually spritzed the bit and hole with cooling water mist from a spray bottle. Same continual spritzing with the step bit and it kept everything running cool as a cucumber. No oil......just a continual mist of cooling water which also lubed without making a mess. One step at a time, check fitting. Slow but sure.

 

[JONNYROTTEN]

For those who are reading this thread as they may be planning to drill a kettle, I was successful drilling my Blichmann 10G non electric kettle last week to add a whirlpool arm kit.

This is my second kettle I have done, and I would never use anything but a step bit. Stainless tends to heat up your bit and can cause heat damage to bit and kettle quickly. I did a 1/8" pilot hole while a helper continually spritzed the bit and hole with cooling water mist from a spray bottle. Same continual spritzing with the step bit and it kept everything running cool as a cucumber. No oil......just a continual mist of cooling water which also lubed without making a mess. One step at a time, check fitting. Slow but sure.

Yep..I think I used some sort of olive oil on mine...Harbor Freight step bits work fine no need for anything expensive....just go sloooowww