Tubing Sizes

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Oyarsa

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I am in the process of building my first keezer. I purchased these items:

https://www.morebeer.com/products/gas-manifold-14-aluminum.htmlhttps://www.morebeer.com/products/intertap-beer-faucet-stainless-steel-flow-control.htmlhttps://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07YYRX3PL/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Now I'm trying to figure out what size tubing I need, how much, and what disconnects to buy.

I wish I could use MFL, but with both the manifold and shanks being barb style connections, I figure I should get use to the idea of using barbs.

The manifold says it is 1/4" and the shanks say they have inner diameter 3/16". Could someone please save me from my overthinking and point me to what size tubing for gas and liquid, what size disconnects for gas and liquid, what size hose clamp? Is it important to have the exact same size ID (1/4 for gas, 3/16 for liquid), or is it ok to be a bit higher or lower? Do I need to worry about matching the disconnect sizes to the manifold and shank sizes?

Thanks for your time on what is probably an easy question if I wasn't overthinking...
 
Too bad you didn't pose the equipment question prior to buying because the chorus would have strongly recommended 1/4" MFL type manifolds and barbless shanks, as that would enable the use of push-to-connect fittings. But we can work with what you have, it'll just take a wee bit more effort :)

The line you want to use is "EVABarrier" tubing, 4MM ID. Morebeer carries it (they also sell 5mm and 6mm ID tubing of the same type). They also carry the push-to-connect fittings that would have made all your connections trivial, but you can still get the 4mm ID line over 1/4" barbs if you heat up the tubing ends in hot water first.

You will need roughly 1/2 foot of 4mm ID line per CO2 psi. I run 12 psi with 6 foot lines and get perfect pours. You can use the same 4mm ID tubing for your gas runs, no need to use anything different, and because EVABarrier tubing is the most resistant to oxygen permeability of any line available to us mere mortals it's actually a good idea to use it on both beer and gas sides to keep O2 out of your beer.

I would at least recommend you get 1/4" MFL version disconnects all around, so you can use the 1/4" FFL to 8mm OD tubing push-to-connect fittings so you don't have to do the barb thing there...

Cheers!
 
As @day_trippr said, you want 4mm ID / 8mm OD EVA Barrier tubing for both beer and gas, not vinyl. Do a search here.

And yes, you do need MFL for the associated push-fit connectors.
 
I can return the shanks. I suppose I can live with barbs on the manifold end. My regulator is MFL.

So, for 3 kegs, here's my shopping list:

Beer Faucet Shank (Stainless) - 4 in. | MoreBeer x 3

Duotight Push-In Fitting - 8 mm (5/16 in.) x Female Beer Thread | MoreBeer x 3

CM Becker Ball Lock Disconnect Beverage Out - Flare | MoreBeer x 2 (already got 1) and the corresponding gas disconnects.

Duotight Push-In Fitting - 8 mm (5/16 in.) x 1/4 in. Flare | MoreBeer x 7 (all disconnects and the regulator)

https://www.morebeer.com/products/e...-tubing-532-4-mm-id-516-8-od-placeholder.html
Look right?

I didn't realize before buying the freezer that the equipment is more expensive than the freezer. Guess I should have done my homework.
 
I recently installed all EVAbarrier tubing and duotight fittings in a keezer. Just be sure to check the duotight fittings once you have gas running.

I ended up losing some Co2 as I came across a leak the next day which I believe was due to a faulty duotight fitting connected to my regulator.

I replaced it with another one and knock on wood haven't had any issues since.
 
I recently installed all EVAbarrier tubing and duotight fittings in a keezer. Just be sure to check the duotight fittings once you have gas running.

I ended up losing some Co2 as I came across a leak the next day which I believe was due to a faulty duotight fitting connected to my regulator.

I replaced it with another one and knock on wood haven't had any issues since.

There are also little plastic inserts you can clip on the duotight junctions that will keep the connection from getting pushed in/coming loose from jostling.
 
There are better prices alternatives, but you will incur an extra shipping charge if buying from a 2nd supplier.
https://www.ritebrew.com/product-p/843425.htmhttps://www.ritebrew.com/product-p/843386.htm
Ritebrew has been one of my main goto online stores for kegging/keezer equipment.
Sadly, they don't have EVA Barrier tubing (yet).

You're going to need some extra ball lock disconnects for utility use. Such as for (semi-) closed transfers into kegs, purging headspace etc. At least 1 of each for gas and liquid.
If you're ever want to push beer from one keg into another (jumping a keg/beer), you'd need one additional liquid disconnect, and associated push fittings.

MFL (flare) is the best way to connect, screw the barbs. ;)
 
Those are some pretty significant price differences. Guess I'll know where to look next time I need anything.
 
What do you all use to cut the EVABarrier. I see that there is a cutter specifically for it, but I'd rather not wait for it to ship to me or pay the shipping for just that item. Anyone use anything else successfully?
 
I just use a regular tubing cutter like this:

1609130902925.png

But you can use pretty much anything as long as the end is cut square and the tubing doesn't get dinged up...

Cheers!
 
Thanks! I was leaning toward something like that, but wasn't sure if it would suffice.
 
Or a sharp utility knife blade, a chef's knife, etc.
Use something to guide your knife along if you want a closer 90° cut.
 
Thanks! I was leaning toward something like that, but wasn't sure if it would suffice.
EVA barrier tubing can be cut with any sharp blade without particular effort. The main advantage of the dedicated cutters is that if used correctly they'll guarantee a 90° cut.
 
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