Thoughts on efficiency

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Owly055

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It's easy with brewing software to calculate your efficiency as a percentage. Mine ranges from 75% or so, up to close to 90% based on the amount of water and grain used, using Brewer's Friend as my handy dandy calculator. I've fallen below, and come out above.

What is efficiency really? Is it OG as related to grain and water? Is it minutes of labor per glass of beer? Is it glasses of beer per pound of grain?

................ Is it even relevant? If I can produce great beer, do I really care about pounds of grain, or minutes of labor to achieve the result? Probably not.

I've focused heavily on time because I brew 2.5 gallon batches...... I brewed 44 times in 2014....... I like to brew, but I can't justify 4.5 hours brew time alone for 2.5 gallons of brew.... But we've been there before and everybody's tired of it. I can do 2.5 hours easily,, and that's good enough for me.

Grain is cheap....... I pay $25 for a 50 pound of Malteurop 2 row, and a buck seventy five a pound for specialty malts...... I buy my hops in half pound quantities from Yakima Valley Hops, and average about $9 per pound..... About 60 cents worth of hops in a 2.5 gallon brew..... Total that up...... About $3 worth of two row. A dollar or less for specialty malt, 60 cents worth of hops in a generic ale.... add perhaps 50 cents for yeast..... as I culture my own. Add that up and I have about $5.10 in 2.5 gallons of beer (materials only), or 34 cents per half liter bottle. (15 bottles per brew + plus around half a bottle)

Do I really care about materials cost? Obviously not.


An interesting number.......... 15+ bottles from a 2.5 gallon brew. With no trub, and no waste, 2.5 gallons should yield 19 half liter bottles (3.8 liters per gallon) My yield is 81.5%

Obviously BIAB is costing me beer...... I'm losing 3.5 bottles per brew

"Conventional" brewers...... mash, lauter, sparge..... seem to brew based on 5.5 gallons for a 5 gallon yield..... 90% yield........ That would give me a bottle and a half more beer per brew. I've done a lauter and sparge using the grain in a bag resting in a colander before, actually recycling 100% of the worth through the grain bed to filter it, then sparging with hot water...... it adds at least half an hour to the process, and yields a bit more beer due to less trub.........But I haven't documented the gain. It also gives me more sugars per pound of grain.......I might gain one bottle, perhaps 1.5 which would push me right up against 90% efficiency...........but is that increase in yield worth the investment of time? Clearly not. I'm adding at least 20% to my brew time to increase the yield by perhaps 8%. Does it improve the quality of the product.......... I would say not. Does it save me money..... clearly it does.......I'm earning about 51 cents for that extra half hour......... Excellent wages ;-) (NOT).

On the other hand, If I were brewing a 15 barrel batch, the equation would change significantly. Those of us on the very low end of the scale in terms of batch size are at a major disadvantage in terms of time, and have to make choices accordingly. The biggest thing I could do to increase efficiency all the way around would be to move to 11 gallon batches......... But I do not foresee even upgrading to 5 gallons.

As far as I'm concerned quality is my number one priority.... Time is a high priority to me because of the way I brew and the number of brews I make and the size of them.... We all have our priorities, and I expect that quality is number one for all of us. I would hope so.


How do you measure efficiency?


H.W.
 
Efficiency matters much more to pro brewers, because low efficiency means higher costs.

A stable efficiency is a thing to be desired if you're trying to brew the same beer more than once.
 
As far as grain efficiency, If I can increase efficiency without excess cost or the quality suffering, why wouldnt I? (like grinding the grain a tad finer) I like spending less. I also dont use much domestic two row, but 50$ compared with 25$ a sack isnt that much more in the total equation.

It also allows me to make bigger beers on my set of equipment. Im happy with 78% efficiency, and dont see much need to go much higher. The most important thing is its consistent from batch to batch, so I get the beer in the end that I planned to get.

Efficiency of time Im not terribly concerned about. I love brewing, enjoy the process, and frankly, my time is cheap. If it was a commercial venture labor costs would be more of an issue.
 
You bring up some valid thoughts. Most people only associate efficiency with mashing. But time and effort are both valuable commodities. Especially for those with spouses, jobs, kids, houses. So, nearly all of us have at least one of those things. Some of us have them all.

I'm an all grain brewer, and have started preparing for brewdays a couple days in advance. Finalize the recipe, weigh the grain, run it through the mill, gather and assemble equipment, filling kettles, and such, all happen in the days leading up to brewday. I can dedicate a smaller block of time on brewday, (and therefore brew more often), by putting in a few minutes a day in the days leading up to it.

Call it life efficiency.

Batch size would likely change that efficiency in a negative way, and my costs are effective for my lifestyle, so I suppose I'm probably at near-optimum efficiency. But there is always some room for improvement. One just needs to find the ways that work best for them.
 
I have beer drinking friends. I don't invite them because I like my house the way it is, not how it would be with some half-drunk guys stumbling around in it. I could give beer away but what kinds of beer I like to brew, they don't seem to like to drink. Any time I give a few samples out to someone that does like my style, I lose the bottles and have to buy bottles to replace and the bottles cost about as much as the beer in them. Now I brew what I want in the quantities I can deal with by myself. Would I want to brew 11 gallon batches? Sure! but then having to drink 11 gallons of the same kind of beer is so boring.
 
I have beer drinking friends. I don't invite them because I like my house the way it is, not how it would be with some half-drunk guys stumbling around in it. I could give beer away but what kinds of beer I like to brew, they don't seem to like to drink. Any time I give a few samples out to someone that does like my style, I lose the bottles and have to buy bottles to replace and the bottles cost about as much as the beer in them. Now I brew what I want in the quantities I can deal with by myself. Would I want to brew 11 gallon batches? Sure! but then having to drink 11 gallons of the same kind of beer is so boring.

You make good points......... Most important being the last....... I like to experiment and have a broad array of beers. I can easily go through one brew a week, and every time I drink a beer I think to myself "now what would a bit of victory or a touch of amarillo or mosaic do, or perhaps I put too much crystal in... or not enough..... what would it taste like with half as much crystal and 130 instead of 60, or I'd like it a bit more "roasty".... next time I'll brown a pound of 2 row and throw it in........how about if I mash a bit higher....or a bit lower because it's a bit dry or a bit cloying sweet. Currently I'm doing a two beer set with identical grain bill and hops, one a lager and one an ale. I have one just about ready to drink that has a significant percentage of rice along with pilsner malt in an attempt to get an extremely pale lager........ and so forth.................
I don't have the patience to go through twice as much brew before I have another idea in the works. I'm increasing the length of my pipeline ...... doubling the number of bottles so I can age longer and have more variety of finished beer.
I simple don't want to go to 5 gallons......... something that requires large equipment, and lots of space. I can do what I'm currently doing right in the kitchen.
The point about bottles is significant........ I've lost quite a few and my bottles are expensive at almost $2 per bottle........ I use ONLY swing tops, and I don't like losing them.

Each person has his own style of brewing........... and priorities.


H.W.
 
]Grain is cheap....... I pay $25 for a 50 pound of Malteurop 2 row

I know this wasn't your main point, but mind if I ask where you finding such a great price on base grains? This seems exceptionally cheap!
 
Grain efficiency is a measure of the how close you get to the hot water extract fine (%). The malsters will measure how much (%) extract is produced with a hot steep and very fine grind. For instance, the maximum amount of hot water extract fine (%) for American pale 2-row might be 80%. Yielding 80% extract from pale 2-row is considered to be a 100% efficient wort production process.
 
I know this wasn't your main point, but mind if I ask where you finding such a great price on base grains? This seems exceptionally cheap!

I buy at cost from a local microbrewer...... it pays to have friends!!
 
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