Switching to All Grain and need advice on equipment!

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take a look at a metal braid(eg bazooka screen or water hose) instead of a false bottom. i've found i get better efficiency with the braid. it is also much cheaper.

I don't use any false bottoms and don't have any complaints. SS braid in my 10 gal cooler and a hops spider in the keggle. I have a false bottom that came with one of my keggles and it did nothing to stop the hops pellet sludge from plugging up the dip tube. Like $20 to build a decent hops spider :mug:

So basically I should grab all of it. Would having three burners be a benefit? All of this will be costing me about $275 which i think is a great deal and all i will need is to get a couple false bottom and valve set ups(why are they so damn expensive!!!)

I still only have 1 burner, a second would definitely be nice. A third though, probably no use if you are mashing in a cooler. I want to build a stand eventually, but right now I get along just fine lifting my 5 gallon batches for transferring to the fermenter.

I took a small copper tube, drilled it and put it inside a steel-braided hose. Works great. I crush fine at .030 and I haven't had a stuck sparge yet. Last three batches have each been exactly 84% efficiency.

This is my plan if I ever run into stuck sparge issues, but so far I have had no problems. Probably just use some scrap copper from one of my chiller builds.
 
Nice so the spider is just a strainer while putting the wort into the BK. I just bought two new 50qt coolers from walmart for $30 a piece. The guy on craigslist is asking for a fortune for his 6 yr old gear. I think im going to just buy two new banjo burners and a 10 gallon kettle new. And the scrap up some valves as i go. Unless anyone reading this threat has any used burners, valves or 10 kettles that you like to sell. Thanks again for eveyones help.
 
The hops spider uses a nylon bag to contain the hops during the boil. Check the DIY section for examples. Many use an insinkerator flange a hose clamp and a few threaded rods.

Keggles can be bought fairly cheap. I want to say I spent like 125 on the one I bought used that already had the ball valve and temp probe/fluid level tube. 15 gal stainless pots are like double that new.
 
I use a modified bazooka tube in that it have a smaller diameter, finer screen tube inside of it to catch anything that gets by the main screen...works great, never a hint of a stuck sparge and I use $20 12v dc food grade pumps which are amall in size so keeping the grain out of the pumps is important.I went electric but if you are looking for a propane burner I suggest checking out amazon....
I bought a brand new bayou classic burner for $35 shipped because the box was damaged.
and I bought a 10gallon igloo beverage cooler thaere new for $38...... tall narrow coolers work better than regular rectangle ones I have tried both as well as trying to make high gravity beers with a 5 gallon igloo... disaster( which ended with me using my oven to mash pots of grain in a decoction style and the belgian triple came out great)
 
Did you pick that smaller screen up at a home depot or something? Im looking at the Banyou Classic burners on amazon and I came across this setup
http://www.ebay.com/itm/King-Kooker...066&&clkid=5479831408867139474&_qi=RTM1562572
looks like an interesting set up and if i can get it for cheap i may go for it. Reviews on amazon are decent. Thoughts?

I use the king cooker for my 2 vessel, 1 pump, 10gallon setup.
Bought it for under $150; check Sams and Walmart online.
Because I use Keggles, I had to raise the second burner. I just used some cinder blocks that I had laying around. Mash tun on the top, boil kettle doubles as a HLT. RIMS system to control Mash temp.
Jet burners are inefficient but very effective; I can reach a boil very quickly. These are used for Crawfish boiling in Louisiana and South East Texas where reaching a boil quickly is very important.

7353-6518.jpg


Here is a picture of the system working (Mash).
I circulate through the RIMS to minimize heat loss; but looking into getting one of these soon to possibly eliminate this:
http://www.keg-skins.com/shop/

Strike water is heated directly on the top burner for mashing in, sparge water is heated in the boil kettle.
First runnings are pulled into a bucket and the sparge water (I batch sparge) is pumped from the BK to the Mash tun.
Then I dump the first runnings into the BK and drain the mash tun into the BK. Makes for a simple compact system.
 
It is sturdy and fairly light weight out of the box.
My modifications added a bunch of weight with the cinder blocks and the plywood instrument panel keeps it square.
The keggle on top isn't super sturdy; a flat bottom kettle would work better on the top burner.
 
Thanks for the reply. I am just getting started and I just got two 12.5 gal Coleman extreme coolers to use and MLT and HLT and am looking to a kettle or keggle for my BK. Im wondering if i can get this cheap if i just do it and then eventually change my HLT to a kettle or keggle in the future. Or should i just get one Bayou burner? Thought?
 
Thanks for the reply. I am just getting started and I just got two 12.5 gal Coleman extreme coolers to use and MLT and HLT and am looking to a kettle or keggle for my BK. Im wondering if i can get this cheap if i just do it and then eventually change my HLT to a kettle or keggle in the future. Or should i just get one Bayou burner? Thought?

Are you planning on using the 5 gallon pot you talked about to heat up the strike water? If so, then get two.

As far as prices, my boil kettle, I bought a Keggle of craigslist that already had the top cut for $50, and converted that in a BK using weldless fittings. I then bought another recently for about $35, and cut the top off myself, then had this one tig welded, for my HLT.
 
im going to try and get either a 10 or 15 gal kettle or a keggle and my BK. But for now all that has been purchased are the 2 12.5 gal Coleman Xtreme coolers for the MLT and HLT. I cant seem to find and good deals up in the Chicago area for keggles :(
 
im going to try and get either a 10 or 15 kettle or a keggle and my BK. But for now all that has been purchased are the 2 12.5 gal Coleman Xtreme coolers for the MLT and HLT. I cant seem to find and good deals up in the Chicago area for keggles :(

You have to be patient, sometimes people want $100 for keggles, and sometimes $40, just a matter of timing. Sometimes you can find a good deal on a keggle with a valve and more in it at times. I would just say watch craigslist everyday and brew with what you have, and upgrade slowly. That is what I did. I bought a SS 7.5 Gallon Pot from a store on sale for $39.99 and used that for a long time, then finally found a good deal on a keggle.

Here is how I started with all grain

5 gallon pot HLT -> 5 gallon Igloo Cooler -> 5 gallon BK for months
5 gallon pot HLT -> 50 quart coleman -> 7.5 gallon BK for months
7.5 gallon pot HLT -> 50 quart coleman -> 15.5 gallon keggle BK for months

next brew

15.5 gallon keggle HLT -> 50 quart coleman -> 15.5 gallon keggle BK.

eventually the 50 quart I'm going to move to a 70 or 75 quart.

But as you can see this has been a slow progression for me, you may need to do the same, or maybe you'll find a sweet deal. Cheers.
 
im going to try and get either a 10 or 15 gal kettle or a keggle and my BK. But for now all that has been purchased are the 2 12.5 gal Coleman Xtreme coolers for the MLT and HLT. I cant seem to find and good deals up in the Chicago area for keggles :(

Just PMed you the keggle contact info.
 
Thanks for the reply. I am just getting started and I just got two 12.5 gal Coleman extreme coolers to use and MLT and HLT and am looking to a kettle or keggle for my BK. Im wondering if i can get this cheap if i just do it and then eventually change my HLT to a kettle or keggle in the future. Or should i just get one Bayou burner? Thought?

How will you heat the water that is in the HLT? Handling hot water without a pump is no fun at all.

Anyway, you need to decide how many pumps and vessels you want.
Flat 3 vessel system needs 2 pumps.
2-tier needs 1 pump.
3-tier does not need a pump, completely gravity fed.

So if I wanted a cheap start in all grain and had a few coolers lying around, I would build a 3 tier stand out of wood. One burner on the ground with a 15 gallon BK to give me the ability to do 10 gallon batches in the future. You may already have a burner and BK that you used for your extract batches, that should give you a start. You will need to add valves to the hlt and mash tun (~$25 each). The mash tun will need a manifold/false bottom, price if variable on what you want. Get 20' of silicon tubing and camlock fittings to transfer wort (~$50-$75). You will need an immersion cooler to cool the wort before dumping the kettle into the fermentor. And that is all you really need to get started.

I have found that if you plan to make upgrades in the future, you are better off going big now. I have a bunch of stuff just hanging around that I don't use anymore due to upgrades. It would have saved more money and time if I would have just skipped the curiosity phase of BIAB and extract brewing and just jumped in feet first.
 
How will you heat the water that is in the HLT? Handling hot water without a pump is no fun at all.

Anyway, you need to decide how many pumps and vessels you want.
Flat 3 vessel system needs 2 pumps.
2-tier needs 1 pump.
3-tier does not need a pump, completely gravity fed.

So if I wanted a cheap start in all grain and had a few coolers lying around, I would build a 3 tier stand out of wood. One burner on the ground with a 15 gallon BK to give me the ability to do 10 gallon batches in the future. You may already have a burner and BK that you used for your extract batches, that should give you a start. You will need to add valves to the hlt and mash tun (~$25 each). The mash tun will need a manifold/false bottom, price if variable on what you want. Get 20' of silicon tubing and camlock fittings to transfer wort (~$50-$75). You will need an immersion cooler to cool the wort before dumping the kettle into the fermentor. And that is all you really need to get started.

I have found that if you plan to make upgrades in the future, you are better off going big now. I have a bunch of stuff just hanging around that I don't use anymore due to upgrades. It would have saved more money and time if I would have just skipped the curiosity phase of BIAB and extract brewing and just jumped in feet first.

Haha i hear yea. My big money pit lately has been my keezer, taps and tap list display from the guys on here called RaspberryPints. Amazing setup now that its all done. I have a lead on a used keg that ill use for my BK and I have a couple of 12.5 gal coolers which will be my HLT and MLT. Going to do a 3 tier system for now. so once i figure out the keggle then i need to get my valve and i should be good to go minus a grain mill. I really appreciate everyones help on here.

20140304_201024 (1).jpg
 
I have a lead on 2 igloo coolers, one 5 gal and the other 10 gal.

I usually do 5 gal brewer with high OG beers.

I do 2.5-gallon batches and recently did a 1.111 OG RIS. My 5-gallon Igloo cooler mash tun was almost full. If you plan on doing 5-gallon high-gravity brews, I think you'll need the 10-gallon Igloo cooler.

Look at at the Green Bay Rackers Can I Mash It?
or
KotMF
calculators for size of mash tun needed.
 
I would get the turkey fryer and included burner for $30, and a cooler, any cooler and try a batch using the BK as the HLT. Or get a couple paint strainers, or make a bag and try a BIAB.

Start with the minimum equipment needed IMHO and build up. I can't imagine setting up 3 burners and tanks and vessels do a first AG.
KISS!
 
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