Suggestions for dip-tube solution in mash tun with a "bump" in the middle

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Smellyglove

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I've just bought a new mash tun. And I want to install my FB and add a dip tube.

The reason for this post is that the mash tun has a buildup in the middle, which is 1.4" from the edge of the tum. The wort will obviously gather in this area around the middle, so that's where I want the dip-tube to go.

The poblem is, that with only 1.4" of space, the fitting and the double ferrule will build more than this length. So how should I solve it?

I've found this dip tube on ebay http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=190950792867&ssPageName=ADME:X:RTQ:US:1123

The way I see it I would need a dip tube that extends all across the mash tun (which is 13" in diameter) and get the wort from the other side. Or, add a 90deg elbow to the fitting, then the double ferrule and cut the aforementioned dip tube so it will get into that narrow area, to the side of where the fitting is located.

I havent bought the dip tube yet so other solutions are more then welcome. it has to be SS though.
 
You can go up or down however you need to inside the tun, if you make sure that the outlet from the spigot is lower than the bottom of the dip tube, this will then provide a syphon geometry, so it will all get sucked up. A piece of plastic pipe on the spigot will do it.
 
You can go up or down however you need to inside the tun, if you make sure that the outlet from the spigot is lower than the bottom of the dip tube, this will then provide a syphon geometry, so it will all get sucked up. A piece of plastic pipe on the spigot will do it.

Maybe I didn't understand you post. But my concern is getting the dip-tube as close to the bottom as possible, which is in a 1.4" edge around the tun (the tun is round one btw). If the dip tube doesnt go all the way to the bottom I will have leftovers.
 
That dont sound suitable for a domed false bottom, so would a slotted pipe laying in the peripheral gallery work better ?
 
That dont sound suitable for a domed false bottom, so would a slotted pipe laying in the peripheral gallery work better ?

The FB is flat as a stamp. It's the bottom of the mash tun which has a buildup in the center.

I know I can get the diptube down where I want it, it's just that will not be in the standard way.
 
I agree with Stealth, post a pic please.

From what I gather, there a "bulge" in the center and this will make the wort flow to the other side of the tun...is that right? How about a compression fitting and some soft copper? You'll be able to bring it to wherever you need in that case.
 
To me it sounds like there is a moat/gutter around the perimeter of the round cooler that is 1.4" wide. The remainder is raised up like a mesa or a butte. So laying a perfect flat false bottom would leave the moat/gutter underneath and serve as the collection point. Problem is that the false bottom in contact with the raised portion becomes useless, therefore you're not better off using a false bottom versus a slotted tube versus a braided hose in the moat.

But a picture will really clear things up :D
 
If in fact, it is "moat like" around the perimeter, could you not:
Space the false bottom up off of the "mesa", with a spacer one size bigger than your siphon tube, and then route your siphon tube over into the "moat".

Heaven forbid you had to shim up one side of the mash tun so that all would flow to the low side of the moat...........Where your siphon tube,( hose extension thereof), would be anxiously slurping away.......:D
 
The FB fits perfectly. And yes, I was trying to describe a "gutter" which goes around the bucket.

Behold my artistic creation:
The example on the right is where the tube will end up if i just build it straigt into the bucket, and straight down. As I said, I want it SS. I still believe I should build it straight in, add a 90 deg elbow, and pick it up somewhere to the right of left of where I have the bulkhead.

Diptube.jpg
 
Yes you have done it, extend to the opposite side, to your yes position, you still need to add the down tube at the outlet to get it to syphon.
 
Obviously you'd need to improvise for your setup, but would one of these ideas work?

This thread? http://forum.northernbrewer.com/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=86132

Or maybe they'll just spark an idea! :D

Well, I'm pretty anal about it being SS all the way, and I don't lnow how to make a custom bend on a SS tube.. And those 90deg elbows are 2" long, which would make it extend beyond the "gutter". I really want to have as little piping down there as possible since I know that I most certainly will accidentally knock a pipe going from one side to the other out of place when I'm using the paddle for mash-in.

The perfect thing would be a really short 90deg elbow, but I cant find such a thing.

Edit: this is exactly what I need:
NEW SWAGELOK ELBOW ADAPTER 1/2IN HOSE STAINLESS 1/2IN NPT FITTING D268418.

It's ebay. (If I post ebay links from my phone they don't work when viewing on a comp)

But shipping to me is $85. So that's obviously not happening.
 
If you don't want a dip tube going all the way across you would need a 180 degree dip tube that bends back around and then goes down.But I think you are overthinking things. What is the actal dead space in the "gutter"? I would be surprised if it's more than 8-10 ounces. I doubt it would effect your efficiency very much.
 
If you don't want a dip tube going all the way across you would need a 180 degree dip tube that bends back around and then goes down.But I think you are overthinking things. What is the actal dead space in the "gutter"? I would be surprised if it's more than 8-10 ounces. I doubt it would effect your efficiency very much.


I don't know what the deadspace is yet. But still. All small streams together makes a river. I'm building my brewery mkIII, and trying to get the most out of it.
 
Is it possible to fit a pipe all the way through a double ferrule? So it sticks out on both ends?

If it is then I have found my solution.
 
Is it possible to fit a pipe all the way through a double ferrule? So it sticks out on both ends?

If it is then I have found my solution.

Some have full bore throughout the length while others will only have full bore half way or so. It would simply be a matter of finding a full length bore ferrule.
 
How about this:
http://www.bargainfittings.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=36_56&product_id=126
12npt38compression90-500x500.jpg


With 1-2 inches of this:
http://www.bargainfittings.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=52&product_id=164
tubingbyinch-500x500.jpg


Use an O-ring (and/or silicone gasket) and stainless washer on the inside. Fasten your ball valve directly to the NPT fitting protruding on the outside.
http://www.bargainfittings.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=36_39_64&product_id=59
http://www.bargainfittings.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=42&product_id=228
http://www.bargainfittings.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=42&product_id=189
http://www.bargainfittings.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=42&product_id=105

This effectively puts an immediate diptube as close to the cooler wall as possible. I would venture a guess that you'd be no further than an inch from the cooler wall.
 
If you look at the pictures posted by stpug, there are some good ideas. If you turn the elbow so it isn't pointing straight down, maybe 20* to either side then run a length of tubing to the gutter/add more elbows to get the tube to the gutter you shouldn't need that fancy elbow.

Alternately, if you were to overlook its obvious lack of SSness, a short length of copper tube bent into a "silly straw" type pattern would also do the trick.

All you need is suction.... And you will rarely see the tube while mashing... My vote is silly straw.
 
How about this:
http://www.bargainfittings.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=36_56&product_id=126
12npt38compression90-500x500.jpg


With 1-2 inches of this:
http://www.bargainfittings.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=52&product_id=164
tubingbyinch-500x500.jpg


Use an O-ring (and/or silicone gasket) and stainless washer on the inside. Fasten your ball valve directly to the NPT fitting protruding on the outside.
http://www.bargainfittings.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=36_39_64&product_id=59
http://www.bargainfittings.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=42&product_id=228
http://www.bargainfittings.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=42&product_id=189
http://www.bargainfittings.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=42&product_id=105

This effectively puts an immediate diptube as close to the cooler wall as possible. I would venture a guess that you'd be no further than an inch from the cooler wall.

Thanks! I've completely forgotten about this site. I've been searching for this exact albow for at least an hour and a half on ebay. All i could find was shipping options in the $80s.

At the checkout at bargainfittings it said that there were no shipping options available. I sent them an email and hope they can sort it out for me.
 
Go here:
http://www.grainger.com/content/worldwide

And click on the country you seek, and see if they have any distributors near you.

They have all kinds of stuff!

If there is a distributor that works for you, and you DON'T see what will work for you, go to "grainger.com", and look for your product, and give that info / Grainger part # to your distributor.........May help them track it down a little easier.

Off topic, but I sold a vintage vehicle last year that went to Finland.
 

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