Spike - Steam Condenser Lid

[fragged]

So the bright flashlight trick works decently to see into the kettle, but has anyone come up with any DIY anti-fog that doesn't involve chemicals or soap? I'll admit, I forgot to add my fermcap-s and was seconds away from a boil over, but wouldn't you know it, the bubbly boil over that touched the clear see through triclamp port added a film that acted as an anti fog for the rest of the boil. It was nuts, thing was clear as day. Anyone smarter than me that can figure out how to replicate this without actually almost boiling over?

Also, anyone aware of a 4" Triclamp that has a hinged lid that clamps into place (similar to like a port hole on a ship)? Obviously not this exactly, but similar design:
View attachment 730237
Out ring would clamp onto the steam condenser, and the door can be easily opened/closed. That tri-clamp gets so dang hot and it's finicky to get back on and something like this would be awesome. This is definitely a WANT and not a need, the steam condenser works great as is, but this little upgrade would be huge QOL improvement in my opinion.

@Bobby_M are you aware of anything or do you sell anything similar?

Solder one of Bobby's flat face triclamp fittings on the lid, add a light weight butterfly valve. Done, and much safer than flipping a hot lid.

 

[thrillhouse]

I have an older Stout 15 gallon kettle and looks like I am just shy of clearing the space needed for the lid to sit properly. For those of you who use the lid without a perfect fit and rely on the vacuum to seal, any regrets?

 

[cactusgarrett]

Does anyone use this lid in conjunction with the Brewzilla 65L unit? I'm curious as to whether or not the lid fits well (or at all).

 

[Mousetrapbrewery]

Does anyone use this lid in conjunction with the Brewzilla 65L unit? I'm curious as to whether or not the lid fits well (or at all).

Reviews on their site indicate that the 15 gal lid works works with the brewzilla 65. Im thinking about doing this with my brewzilla once it comes in.

 

[Town9]

Has anyone figured out how to get steam to stop leaking out the rim of the lid?

I have a spike 30 gal kettle with the lid on an eHERMS using 5500 ulwd elements. When I run the boil at anything greater than 15% (slightly rolling boil) steam starts leaking out the sides and condensates/drips down the side of the kettle.

I have the standard configuration, no CIP ball…

 

[Biggz1313]

Has anyone figured out how to get steam to stop leaking out the rim of the lid?

I have a spike 30 gal kettle with the lid on an eHERMS using 5500 ulwd elements. When I run the boil at anything greater than 15% (slightly rolling boil) steam starts leaking out the sides and condensates/drips down the side of the kettle.

I have the standard configuration, no CIP ball…

I have the 15 gallon lid and use the pump that came with it and have no issues with steam leaking. Are you sure you have a good flow rate from the water pump and nozzle? Also what do you have you your PID set at during boil? You dont really need it any higher than 40-50% for a good boil and the condenser to keep up with that output.

I personally have issues with the CIP ball spraying water out from under the lid. @SpikeBrewing replied to me on this thread to a gasket I could by and put on it, so ~$60 later I bought the gasket and it still leaks flipping everywhere. It's super frustrating that I can't use the CIP ball because it just spews hot PBW out and down the side of my kettle.

 

[Town9]

I have the 15 gallon lid and use the pump that came with it and have no issues with steam leaking. Are you sure you have a good flow rate from the water pump and nozzle? Also what do you have you your PID set at during boil? You dont really need it any higher than 40-50% for a good boil and the condenser to keep up with that output.

I personally have issues with the CIP ball spraying water out from under the lid. @SpikeBrewing replied to me on this thread to a gasket I could by and put on it, so ~$60 later I bought the gasket and it still leaks flipping everywhere. It's super frustrating that I can't use the CIP ball because it just spews hot PBW out and down the side of my kettle.

The pump is working great as far as I can tell, but not sure about the nozzle? Maybe I’ll take it apart and see if it’s gummed up with scale or something.

I get flow out of the nozzle, but I’m not sure if it’s at the appropriate rate or not.

I use Craftbeerpi to run my boil output at the equivalent of 15% power…when I bump it up to 20% it starts leaking steam and it pops the 4” sight port lid off if I don’t have it clamped on.

Sorry to hear about your CIP issues, that doesn’t sound fun…

 

[Town9]

The pump is working great as far as I can tell, but not sure about the nozzle? Maybe I’ll take it apart and see if it’s gummed up with scale or something.

I get flow out of the nozzle, but I’m not sure if it’s at the appropriate rate or not.

I use Craftbeerpi to run my boil output at the equivalent of 15% power…when I bump it up to 20% it starts leaking steam and it pops the 4” sight port lid off if I don’t have it clamped on.

Sorry to hear about your CIP issues, that doesn’t sound fun…

just re-read the manual: my exit hose gets submerged often (it shouldn’t be)…that’s gotta be my problem, didn’t even think of the pressure build up that would cause

 

[Biggz1313]

just re-read the manual: my exit hose gets submerged often (it shouldn’t be)…that’s gotta be my problem, didn’t even think of the pressure build up that would cause

Oh yeah that'll definitely do it. Where do you have you exit hose draining to?

 

[Town9]

Oh yeah that'll definitely do it. Where do you have you exit hose draining to?

I have it going into a bucket. I had to buy a longer 3/4 ID silicone hose to reach the bucket, but originally had it touch the bottom which caused it to be submerged after a little bit of boiling.

I cut the hose to where it just hovers above the bucket as it drains and that fixed the leak issue.

Thanks for the help!

 

[sicktght311]

Coming back to this thread as i have questions before i pull the trigger on the Spike lid for my 10 gallon kettles. Remodeling my brew area and i'd ideally like to avoid building another complicated vent system as theres a window i'd like to keep in use in that area

Spike's website says water usage is 5gph if recirculating the discharge on the product page, but in the same page also says the discharge water is hot. But it seems that literally no one is doing this per these threads, and spike's own FAQ contradicts this saying 15-25gallons depending on size, so whats the correct thing here? Continuous feed of cold water, resulting in 10-15gallons of water usage for a 10 gallon kettle? Or do you discharge back into the source water bucket and babysit until it hits 120 degrees and then switch it out for another 5 gallon bucket of cold water?

 

[SpikeBrewing]

Coming back to this thread as i have questions before i pull the trigger on the Spike lid for my 10 gallon kettles. Remodeling my brew area and i'd ideally like to avoid building another complicated vent system as theres a window i'd like to keep in use in that area

Spike's website says water usage is 5gph if recirculating the discharge on the product page, but in the same page also says the discharge water is hot. But it seems that literally no one is doing this per these threads, and spike's own FAQ contradicts this saying 15-25gallons depending on size, so whats the correct thing here? Continuous feed of cold water, resulting in 10-15gallons of water usage for a 10 gallon kettle? Or do you discharge back into the source water bucket and babysit until it hits 120 degrees and then switch it out for another 5 gallon bucket of cold water?

You can go either route. If you want to conserve water we'd recommend recirculating. With that method you'll use about 5 gallons or so. If you don't want to swap a bucket then you can just let it flow into a drain and it'll use more water.

 

[jkcolo]

Coming back to this thread as i have questions before i pull the trigger on the Spike lid for my 10 gallon kettles. Remodeling my brew area and i'd ideally like to avoid building another complicated vent system as theres a window i'd like to keep in use in that area

Spike's website says water usage is 5gph if recirculating the discharge on the product page, but in the same page also says the discharge water is hot. But it seems that literally no one is doing this per these threads, and spike's own FAQ contradicts this saying 15-25gallons depending on size, so whats the correct thing here? Continuous feed of cold water, resulting in 10-15gallons of water usage for a 10 gallon kettle? Or do you discharge back into the source water bucket and babysit until it hits 120 degrees and then switch it out for another 5 gallon bucket of cold water?

Ditch the spike nozzle and pump. I got a nozzle from McMaster and a different tri-clamp fitting and hooked it to a garden faucet. Uses about 9gph; works great. I drain to the sink. Here is a pic.

 

[duelerx]

Been using mine fine on my 20 gal SSBrewtech BME, i totally agree that clear lid cap is so much hassle and you can get your hand burned by the steam.

Found the best solution i highly recommend:

https://www.glaciertanks.com/16amp-g400-loop.html
You have a cap with a hanger AND a loop to hang any hop/spices bag.

 

[sharp6]

Ditch the spike nozzle and pump. I got a nozzle from McMaster and a different tri-clamp fitting and hooked it to a garden faucet. Uses about 9gph; works great. I drain to the sink. Here is a pic.

That's a great idea! Could you post a link for the tri clamp fitting and nozzle? I am using an rv regulator currently, this would simplify my setup.

 

[jkcolo]

That's a great idea! Could you post a link for the tri clamp fitting and nozzle? I am using an rv regulator currently, this would simplify my setup.

Here are the links for the parts I used.

Misting Nozzle, Full-Cone, 416 Stainless Steel, 1/8 NPT Male, 9.49 gph At 40 PSI | McMaster-Carr

304 Stainless Steel Threaded Pipe Fitting, Low-Pressure, Straight Reducer, 1/2 x 1/8 NPT Female | McMaster-Carr

Welcome to Adventures in Homebrewing - What is your Adventure?

I used a garden adapter and 90 deg elbow for the supply water.
This is the combination that worked for me. The nozzle sits just low enough in the vertical pipe that the spray doesn't travel in the horizontal pipe back into the brew kettle (very important)! Here's a pic of the assembled part. Good luck.

 

[duelerx]

Any opinion of Steam Slayer DIY - 1.5" TC Sprayer Head Assembly that is sold on Brewhardware?, i like the idea of moving to hooking to a garden hose to 9ghp.

 

[Bobby_M]

Any opinion of Steam Slayer DIY - 1.5" TC Sprayer Head Assembly that is sold on Brewhardware?, i like the idea of moving to hooking to a garden hose to 9ghp.

It's freaking amazing. I'm not sure what you need to know...

 

[duelerx]

It's freaking amazing. I'm not sure what you need to know...

I agree!, looks so much better than using the mini pump and sprayer Spike provides for their steam condenser, just wanted to be sure the length of the sprayer is fine for the Spike's steam condencer.

 

[Mad Mann]

Has anyone figured out how to get steam to stop leaking out the rim of the lid?

I have a spike 30 gal kettle with the lid on an eHERMS using 5500 ulwd elements. When I run the boil at anything greater than 15% (slightly rolling boil) steam starts leaking out the sides and condensates/drips down the side of the kettle.

I have the standard configuration, no CIP ball…

For my set up I had to use a bungee cord across the top.

 

[RayZab]

I agree!, looks so much better than using the mini pump and sprayer Spike provides for their steam condenser, just wanted to be sure the length of the sprayer is fine for the Spike's steam condencer.

Did you go this route? Wanted to know if it's working well. I have a gift card with Spike to use and was also thinking of getting the steam condenser lid and combining it with the DIY steam slayer sprayer so I can hook it up to my garden hose.

 

[Beer:30]

Here are the links for the parts I used.

Misting Nozzle, Full-Cone, 416 Stainless Steel, 1/8 NPT Male, 9.49 gph At 40 PSI | McMaster-Carr

304 Stainless Steel Threaded Pipe Fitting, Low-Pressure, Straight Reducer, 1/2 x 1/8 NPT Female | McMaster-Carr

Welcome to Adventures in Homebrewing - What is your Adventure?

I used a garden adapter and 90 deg elbow for the supply water.
This is the combination that worked for me. The nozzle sits just low enough in the vertical pipe that the spray doesn't travel in the horizontal pipe back into the brew kettle (very important)! Here's a pic of the assembled part. Good luck.

View attachment 758553

resurrecting a SUPER old thread, but how did this set-up work for you? Did this nozzle/configuration work for your house water pressure and still allow the lid to function properly? Any modifications to this assembly since you built it? I am going to follow your lead and ditch the pump and bucket. TIA!
Eric

 

[matt_m]

My house water pressure is like 45-50 PSI, while the Spike pump puts out 6 PSI, so running the condenser sprayer right off the tap gave a dramatically stronger stream. I bought an inline water pressure regulator (typically used for RVs), and am able to crank it all the way down to 0 PSI if I want to. I haven't had a chance to try it with an actual brew yet, but I can confirm that with the pressure set to 6(ish) PSI, the spray coming out of the nozzle looks much more like the one with the pump now, so I see no reason why it wouldn't work.

How has this been working out for you?