Russian Imperial Stout Advice/Critique

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

harry-wang

Active Member
Joined
Apr 7, 2009
Messages
31
Reaction score
1
Location
California
This is my attempt at formulating a Russian Imperial Stout. I really just want advice if I should change anything before I brew it. I plan on adding oak chips soaked in bourbon for 1-2 months. I really want that dark fruit flavor to shine. Any advice on oak chips would be helpful as well, Ive never used them.

All Grain
Batch Size (fermenter): 5.50 gal
Boil Time: 60 min
Est Original Gravity: 1.114 SG
Est Final Gravity: 1.022 SG
Estimated Alcohol by Vol: 12.4 %
Bitterness: 88.8 IBUs
Est Color: 67.4 SRM

Ingredients
Amt Name Type # %/IBU
21 lbs 8.0 oz Pale Malt (2 Row) US (2.0 SRM) Grain 1 77.5 %
2 lbs Roasted Barley (300.0 SRM) Grain 2 7.2 %
1 lbs Chocolate Malt (350.0 SRM) Grain 4 3.6 %
1 lbs Black (Patent) Malt (550.0 SRM) Grain 3 3.6 %
12.0 oz Rye, Flaked (2.0 SRM) Grain 6 2.7 %
12.0 oz Oats, Flaked (1.0 SRM) Grain 5 2.7 %
12.0 oz Special B Malt (180.0 SRM) Grain 7 2.7 %

2.00 oz Chinook [13.00 %] - Boil 60.0 min Hop 8 55.6 IBUs
2.00 oz Chinook [13.00 %] - Boil 15.0 min Hop 9 27.6 IBUs
1.00 oz Chinook [13.00 %] - Boil 5.0 min Hop 10 5.5 IBUs

2.0 pkg Nottingham (Danstar #-) [23.66 ml] Yeast 12 -
2.0 pkg Safale American (DCL/Fermentis #US-05) [50.28 ml] Yeast 13 -
2.0 pkg California Ale (White Labs #WLP001) [35.49 ml] Yeast 11 -

Unsure what yeast I want to use. I'll probably make a 2-3L starter

Mash at 150


Thanks everyone for your help
 
Wow...that's an awful lot of dark, roasted malts. Take a look at this recipe and compare.

Edit: If you plan to oak for a couple months, use oak cubes, not chips, so you don't get as much tannins. Soak the cubes in your favorite bourbon for a couple weeks, then dump them in, along with the bourbon.
 
Agree I stopped using black patent in my stouts. Debating to add a little back.
I use equal parts barley Munich and chocolate. I use crystal where you are using special b. I use about a third of the amount of crystal 60 as other grains. So if I use .75 of each of the three, then I will use .25 lbs crystal.

Black patent is really my only concern at that level. Is it there for color or strong flavor?
 
Ok cool, cubes it is. How much bourbon should I use?

Est Original Gravity: 1.111 SG
Est Final Gravity: 1.021 SG
Estimated Alcohol by Vol: 12.1%
Bitterness: 90.2 IBUs
Est Color: 45.7 SRM

21 lbs 12.0 oz Pale Malt (2 Row) US (2.0 SRM) Grain 1 81.3 %
1 lbs 8.0 oz Roasted Barley (300.0 SRM) Grain 2 5.6 %
1 lbs Chocolate Malt (350.0 SRM) Grain 3 3.7 %
1 lbs Special B Malt (180.0 SRM) Grain 4 3.7 %
12.0 oz Rye, Flaked (2.0 SRM) Grain 6 2.8 %
12.0 oz Oats, Flaked (1.0 SRM) Grain 5 2.8 %
4.0 oz Crystal Malt - 60L (60.0 SRM) Grain 7 0.9 %


What do you think of this?
 
grain bill looks fine to me for an imperial...maybe drop the black patent a bit. I've used oak chips in the past. I weighed them, added into a small mason jar, and added enough bourbon to cover...probably a cup or so for 5 gallons.
 
Are you force carbonating or bottle conditioning? At 12% ABV you're really going to be pushing the tolerance of those 3 yeast choices.

For oak, I've switched exclusively to spirals now. You get the depth and complexity of cubes but the surface area of chips. Complete extraction at 6 weeks typically.

If you're looking for a Bourbon barrel quality, I'd go American oak. Probably medium or even dark toast.
 
I dropped the black patent from the grain bill. As for the Spirals is there any issue aging them longer then 6 weeks? I am kegging so ill be force carbing. Is there a better yeast to use then the ones listed.
 
I don't think letting it go longer will achieve much from the oak. Will it hurt? I don't think so. You may get slightly more tannin extraction. If that's a concern, just toss it in after you've let it ride in secondary for a few weeks and start the timer then.

I like Nottingham, personally. Make sure you pitch plenty (2-3 packs) and have a blow-off tube, though.
 
I don't. I sprinkle it on top of the foam. It rehydrates there and has the time it needs to avoid sugar shock.
 
A new situation just a rose. This is the biggest beer I've ever done. I'm doing a 5 gallon batch, My grain bill is so large it ask for 10 gallons of mash water for 1.5 ratio. At 10 gallons I don't have any water for my sparge. Is that when I substitute my base malt for DME?
 
You could do that or reduce the mash water to just over 1 quart/lb.


Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew
 
Are you using bottled water? I might be concerned you'll miss your target volume.


Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew
 
I tend to make more sparge water than necessary just in case. Either way, you're good to reduce your mash down to as low as 1 quart per pound safely.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top