Questions for Monster Mill owners

[hezagenius]

My local HBS is closing so I decided on a 3 roller monster mill. It will be in my attached garage so it shouldn't be exposed to the elements.

My questions:
Is it worth paying more for the 1/2" drive shaft?
Is it worth upgrading to the better SS rollers?
Is it worth upgrading to the SS hopper?

 

[Blazinlow86]

I think you will be happy with the base mill. I upgraded to the base model after using a few chinese mills with mediocre results and it's much better. The rollers grip so much better that on the first try I had to change my drills clutch setting otherwise my drill wouldn't spin. guess it depends on how much you want to spend though. Cheers

 

[Jtvann]

My local HBS is closing so I decided on a 3 roller monster mill. It will be in my attached garage so it shouldn't be exposed to the elements.

My questions:
Is it worth paying more for the 1/2" drive shaft?
Is it worth upgrading to the better SS rollers?
Is it worth upgrading to the SS hopper?

1-No
2-No
3-No/Depends

Regular shaft drive does fine
Regular rollers are fine
If you're doing 5 gallon batches, dont upgrade the hopper. Anything larger, it is less annoying to be able to dump your whole grain bill in.

 

[eric19312]

I run 15 gallon batches and have no need for bigger hopper than the base model. I need to swap out the catch buckets anyway it’s not a big deal to keep topping up the hopper while it’s running and the base hopper takes up enough of my garage as it is.

 

[Robert65]

I do 6 gallon batches and am glad I got the extension, the base hopper is borderline and I don't want to have to top up. Just preference.

 

[IslandLizard]

1) I just looked on MM site, the MM-3 comes standard with a 1/2" shaft. Make sure your drill or motor is 1/2".

I have a MM-2 and use the HF 1/2" Heavy Duty Low Speed drill. They have newer models now, they should be pretty much the same inside, looking snazzier. I wish I had bought the 1/2" shaft option, but at the time I hoped my old 3/8" drill would do the work. It couldn't.

2) The stainless rollers are not better than the steel ones, the steel rollers are harder than the 303 SS ones. I'd stick with the standard steel ones, unless you always "wet" condition your grain or leave the mill in a damp area. You can always run a pound of dry grain through after milling "wet" grain.

3) I fill up once or twice. A 5 gallon bucket is usually pretty much full after milling a 5 gallon 1.060 batch.

I like hands free milling:

 

[hezagenius]

@IslandLizard
Your setup is kinda what I was thinking. Get the drill set up so I can turn it on and then just dump in the grain. I don't want to have to hold the drill trigger as I feed the hopper.

I only have a 3/8" cordless so I will be buying a new drill for this regardless.

Monster says they honor coupons from NB and MB so buying direct from them will get me the 1/2" drive shaft. Since I don't plan to wet mill, I'll stick with the standard rollers.

 

[IslandLizard]

I only have a 3/8" cordless so I will be buying a new drill for this regardless.

Some, better, more powerful (high torque) cordless drills can do the job, but they need to start at higher rpms usually to prevent stalling under load. Even that beast of a drill I got groans a bit when I fill the hopper. Similar models are still around $50 at HF, even less with the right coupon. I'd save the good and rather expensive drill for the good work, and buy one dedicated for milling.

I run it at around [EDIT] 170-190 150-170 rpm under load (1/3 of the max speed of 550 rpm). That speed is an educated guess, hard to measure. I guess I could put a piece of red tape on the chuck and count revs over 10-20 secs. If I remember I'll do that next time.

I have had no problems borrowing that Heavy Duty drill for some around the home construction work. Like drilling through poles.

 

[eric19312]

I’m on my second HF low speed high torque drill. First lasted about 3 years and burned out / quit. Thought I’d get a better quality to replace but they are 4x the price and still at best only mediocre quality at least as user reviews go, so went back to HF and have 3 years on this one still going strong. The version I got has a vertical handle, laid flat on my mill table I don’t need to do anything special to lock it into place. Just start it up and press the keep running button and I’m in business.

 

[Robert65]

@IslandLizard and @eric19312, could you provide links or other pointers toward the drill models you are using? I'm using a very nice DeWalt that is a) not ideally suited to the job and b) too nice to keep abusing.

 

[eric19312]

This one seems to be current model


https://www.harborfreight.com/12-in-Heavy-Duty-Spade-Handle-Drill-63112.html

 

[Robert65]

This one seems to be current model


https://www.harborfreight.com/12-in-Heavy-Duty-Spade-Handle-Drill-63112.html

Thanks! I was on their website and spotted that very one as looking like a good choice. I should be passing by there tomorrow, I'll try to grab one and be ready for the weekend.

 

[IslandLizard]

Thanks! I was on their website and spotted that very one as looking like a good choice. I should be passing by there tomorrow, I'll try to grab one and be ready for the weekend.

That's a newer model, same specs as mine.

When I bought mine there were actually 3 models on the shelf, with the same specs, but small, almost imperceptible, differences among them. The one I selected has a wheel adjuster in the trigger, limiting how far you can squeeze it. They did away with that since. If it doesn't lock at the speed you want, use a zip tie to pre-squeeze the trigger at the milling speed.

 

[Robert65]

That's a newer model, same specs as mine.

When I bought mine there were actually 3 models on the shelf, with the same specs, but small, almost imperceptible, differences among them. The one I selected has a wheel adjuster in the trigger, limiting how far you can squeeze it. They did away with that since. If it doesn't lock at the speed you want, use a zip tie to pre-squeeze the trigger at the milling speed.

So I gather this drill has sufficient torque to maintain speed if started up before feeding the hopper? (My high speed DeWalt will stop dead if I try that, one reason I'm looking for a dedicated mill drill, the other being difficulty of maintaining low speed...)

 

[IslandLizard]

So I gather this drill has sufficient torque to maintain speed if started up before feeding the hopper? (My high speed DeWalt will stop dead if I try that, one reason I'm looking for a dedicated mill drill, the other being difficulty of maintaining low speed...)

When you start it with an empty hopper the drill should run at about half speed or a bit faster. As soon as you pour the grain it slows down and you can hear it "chewing" in the right speed range.

I've started it with a full hopper too, no problem. But, it's best to have it all mounted down, not operating hand held. The amazing torque could break your wrist (and dump the hopper, sideways) if it locks up due to an unexpected rock or when a roller has locked up. I had this happen twice, had to straighten the bent 3/8" drive shaft, then built the stand.

I always make sure the slave roller (on the MM-2) spins freely before starting the drill. On the MM-3 you should check both undriven rollers. It won't mill if one is stuck.

 

[IslandLizard]

IIRC, the linear milling speed should be ideally somewhere in the 12-15 inch/second range, can't seem to locate a link to that. Larger diameter rollers are better than smaller ones, due to a smaller nip angle. But you'd need to go to seriously large rollers (6-10" diameter) to see any difference. For homebrewing 1.5" mills are the most common.

With a 1.5" roller mill at 150 rpm, the linear speed comes in at around 12"/sec.:

1.5" * 3.14 * 150 rpm / 60 seconds = 11.775"/sec.
​

I think that's what I'm aiming at, ~170 rpm max.

 

[Robert65]

IIRC, the linear milling speed should be somewhere in the 12-15 inch/second range, can't seem to locate a link to that.
A 1.5" roller mill at 150 rpm comes in at around 12"/sec.:

1.5" * 3.14 * 150 rpm / 60 seconds = 11.775"/sec.​

Thanks, first time I've had that kind of basis for calibration. I have the MM2 Pro with the 2 in rollers, so I'll have to do a little math.

 

[IslandLizard]

Thanks, first time I've had that kind of basis for calibration. I have the MM2 Pro with the 2 in rollers, so I'll have to do a little math.

I edited the post you're replying to, showing the formula and so.

With 2" rollers you would simply run your drill/motor at 3/4 of that 150 rpm speed , ~113 rpm (under load). Anywhere between 110 and 130 rpm should work fine. (2" / 1.5" = 4/3).

I got some info from here:
https://discussions.probrewer.com/showthread.php?14821-Grain-Mill-Roller-Speed

 

[eric19312]

Here is how I set mine up. I just oriented the handles to keep the drill from spinning. Dealt with height mismatch with a couple wood scraps. Did the same thing before I got the cabinet on top of a couple homer buckets.

 

[eric19312]

That's a newer model, same specs as mine.

When I bought mine there were actually 3 models on the shelf, with the same specs, but small, almost imperceptible, differences among them. The one I selected has a wheel adjuster in the trigger, limiting how far you can squeeze it. They did away with that since. If it doesn't lock at the speed you want, use a zip tie to pre-squeeze the trigger at the milling speed.

Good point. Mine has the round locking button and the variable speed dial on trigger seen below. Both are extremely useful and not clear still part of the HF drill.

Edited to add...
This one might be better choice if HF did get rid of the trigger features
VonHaus 10 Amp 1/2" Heavy Duty Drill Mud Mixer with Spade Handle and Variable Speeds For Drilling and Mixing https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0771PM16R/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_M0wWDb1HCV438

 

[Robert65]

Good points. I'll see if the HF drill locks at all, if not... I think Lowes has a Kobalt around the same price that does lock, but max speed is around 850 rpm vs HF's 550, so adjustment will be more finicky. But still an option so long as the torque is there.

 

[Robert65]

Got the HF drill. Can't adapt my current arrangement to accommodate it, so next project will be building a new mount for it and the mill, whenever I get around to that. Will be plenty of crappy weather this winter, nice to have some indoor projects lined up, and I know better milling is in the future. Thanks for the tip.

 

[AnthonyTD]

I took a old driveway gate motor and coupled it to my mill. The motor is only 12v but it runs through a worm gear so they're is plenty of torque and a nice slow speed.

The coupler in the middle is an Oldham coupler that I made in my workshop. This allows everything to turn with no wobbles from misalignment.

 

[govner1]

How slow? 150-180 rpm is ideal

 

[AnthonyTD]

How slow? 150-180 rpm is ideal

Yep around the 120 mark.