PID Alarm Problem

[sasky7777]

I have a Kal clone built from a kit, and I seem to have everything running properly except for the PID alarm. They are the Auber SYL-2352. The top number in red all read around 62*F, as I haven’t calibrated them to my Thermopen. The bottom number in green I can change and set. The elements fire and hold the temp to my set point.
What I can’t get working is the alarm. I’ve checked my wiring three times and it’s been checked by a journeyman electrician. The alarm goes off for the timer so I know it works.
I set the first ALARM 1 at 135*F, and set ALARM 2 at 70*F. With the water at roughly 60*F I should get an alarm, and with the set point at 140*F I should get an alarm one I hit set point. The issue I see is that the PID doesn’t show a light coming on for ALM1 or ALM2. All of this leads me to believe that the PID isn’t set right.
I have gotten the alarm to go off on the PIDs like 10 % of the time which is frustrating since it will work and then stop and I haven’t changed anything other than cycling the power on and off.

 

[Gameface]

I have a Kal clone built from a kit, and I seem to have everything running properly except for the PID alarm. They are the Auber SYL-2352. The top number in red all read around 62*F, as I haven’t calibrated them to my Thermopen. The bottom number in green I can change and set. The elements fire and hold the temp to my set point.
What I can’t get working is the alarm. I’ve checked my wiring three times and it’s been checked by a journeyman electrician. The alarm goes off for the timer so I know it works.
I set the first ALARM 1 at 135*F, and set ALARM 2 at 70*F. With the water at roughly 60*F I should get an alarm, and with the set point at 140*F I should get an alarm one I hit set point. The issue I see is that the PID doesn’t show a light coming on for ALM1 or ALM2. All of this leads me to believe that the PID isn’t set right.
I have gotten the alarm to go off on the PIDs like 10 % of the time which is frustrating since it will work and then stop and I haven’t changed anything other than cycling the power on and off.

Not sure what to tell you. From my recollection that is how you're supposed to set it up. If the red alarm light isn't coming on on the PID then it doesn't think there is an alarm condition and isn't sending the signal out, so it's not your wiring I don't think.

 

[skidmark]

Is there a setting for whether the alarm comes on for rising or falling conditions?

 

[sasky7777]

Is there a setting for whether the alarm comes on for rising or falling conditions?

Not that I know of. Just two temperatures.

 

[kal]

To be clear:

- ALM1 will turn on when the temperature (the measured red PV value) passes through the ALM1 value on its way up.
- ALM2 will turn on when the temperature (the measured red PV value) passes through the ALM2 value on way down up.

Key words are "passes through". Make sure that the "Hy-1" and "Hy-2" values are set to the default 9999.

More info: http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/control-panel-setup
Check out the manual too for more info.

Calibration of the temp probes will ensure what you're reading is accurate, but doesn't change the logic.

If anyone's curious, here's how I use ALM1 and ALM2:

ALM1 is useful for knowing when:

- The hot liquor has reached strike temperature (alarm sent from the Hot Liquor Tank PID).
- The grain has reached a mash, step, or mashout temperature (alarm sent from the Mash/Lauter Tun PID).
- The hot liquor has reached sparge temperature (alarm sent from the Hot Liquor Tank PID).
- The wort is about to boil (alarm sent from the Boil Kettle PID).

ALM2 is useful for knowing when:

- The wort has reached hop stand temperature (alarm sent from the Boil Kettle PID).
- The wort has reached yeast pitching temperature (alarm sent from the Boil Kettle PID). (I don't actually do this myself but would be useful for brewers who use immersion chillers).

Good luck!

Kal

 

[augiedoggy]

Is there a setting for whether the alarm comes on for rising or falling conditions?

there should be.. all the pids I own work that way.

 

[sasky7777]

So double check the Hy-1 and Hy-2, and then ramp up the temp past ALM-1 and I should get and alarm, and then let the water cool below ALM-2 and it should go off.
That explains the intermittent working of the alarm.
Just for my own knowledge why do the alarms only signal when it passes through and not just when the temperature is outside the range of the alarms?

 

[kal]

Just for my own knowledge why do the alarms only signal when it passes through and not just when the temperature is outside the range of the alarms?

Not sure - I haven't been through this specific manual in detail, but there's probably a way to have it work the way you want to. That said, would it be of any use however?

Alarms exist to notify when a threshold is passed, to notify that action is required at the moment the alarm condition become true. Alarms = action required.

We don't configure and turn on an alarm to notify when the temperature has higher than 180F if the temperature has already reached 200F as there's no point. You already know you're beyond. You wouldn't turn on the alarm. It's too late. The condition and time to react has already passed.

Kind of like your car warning you to put on your seatbelt after you've already crashed.

Kal

 

[augiedoggy]

So double check the Hy-1 and Hy-2, and then ramp up the temp past ALM-1 and I should get and alarm, and then let the water cool below ALM-2 and it should go off.
That explains the intermittent working of the alarm.
Just for my own knowledge why do the alarms only signal when it passes through and not just when the temperature is outside the range of the alarms?

on my old analoge control panel with mypin pids I did set up my dual alarm rims pid to set off and alarm if the pid went too high or too low from a "range" I setup.. I think thats what your asking and if so I know it can be done.. with a dual alarm mypin td4 anyway. I believe I tried to do something similar with my ezboil but to be honest I found the thing not very user friendly for some reason and only used it for a short time before jumping to brucontrol.

 

[sasky7777]

Not sure - I haven't been through this specific manual in detail, but there's probably a way to have it work the way you want to. That said, would it be of any use however?

Alarms exist to notify when a threshold is passed, to notify that action is required at the moment the alarm condition become true. Alarms = action required.

We don't configure and turn on an alarm to notify when the temperature has higher than 180F if the temperature has already reached 200F as there's no point. You already know you're beyond. You wouldn't turn on the alarm. It's too late. The condition and time to react has already passed.

Kind of like your car warning you to put on your seatbelt after you've already crashed.

Kal

Yes, that makes sense, the way they are now will work fine for me. My background is in agriculture and all the GPS and precision ag monitors go off like a Christmas tree crossed with an air raid siren when ever anything isn't completely right, so I was expecting these to be not as sophisticated as well.

 

[tdiowa]

One question. You said that the timer alarm goes off as it suppose to. Does the PID and Timer share the same alarm? If you do unhook the timer from the alarm and see if the Alarm works when fired by the PID. I tried using a single alarm for the Timer and PID and it didn't work. Had to install a separate alarm for each.

 

[Gameface]

One question. You said that the timer alarm goes off as it suppose to. Does the PID and Timer share the same alarm? If you do unhook the timer from the alarm and see if the Alarm works when fired by the PID. I tried using a single alarm for the Timer and PID and it didn't work. Had to install a separate alarm for each.

That shouldn't be necessary.