PicoBrew Zymatic

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I saw the part # a few months ago scanning the threads, thanks. I did a total disassembly/clean of them, nothing stuck, just a lot of build up. It seems most people switch both out at once, and possibly upgrade the flow rate. Does that seem to affect anything other than drain time?
I saw there is a guy up in Everett selling his zymatic. I was considering buying it for parts/extra step filter. Does it seem the pumps just slowly die? I kinda assumed it would just kick and not run anymore. Debating about how cost effective it would be to just get a backup system, or just the parts needed now.

On a side note, I have one of the original step filter, without the holes. I also got on second one with the holes, but no rubber plugs. Any suggestions on a replacement part for the plugs? I cant even find a decent picture of them
As for the step filter holes, just fill them with food grade silicone since you should be hand-washing them any way. Those holes were originally designed for draining when placed in the dishwasher. I have not found a source for those, but honestly, I have not looked.

I'm not sure a "spare parts" machine is necessary, given that we have outsourced nearly all of the parts on the unit. If it was a "good" price I might, but it would have to be a real good price.

I've never had a pump actually go bad and I use seaflo pumps all over our brewery for moving liquid. The pump heads will wear out though, due to the high temps, but they are unlikely to just quit. The edpm seals inside tend to wear out and not seal as well as they used to, which leads to diminished flow. I have two units where I replaced the drain pump with the slightly higher flow rate and one of those units has a matching wort pump and the other does not. If you do only replace one with the faster flow rate, make sure it is the drain pump. The difference between .7 lpm and 1.2 lpm is negligible performance-wise on the drain, but may have an impact if used only on the wort side.

I'm assuming, since you completely dismantled your unit, that you topped off the glycol. Be a shame to not do that, while you are there.
 
Yup, topped it off
I switched the two pumps(including electric) and it was still having the same issue. I then tried my second step filter and it drained fine. After looking around, the rubber skirt inside the drain hole was torn, probably restricting flow. I pulled it out, any ideas on a replacement piece? it appears to be a small rubber tube that pulls in on the end, unless the drain port is inserted in. Could I just replace it with a piece of silicone tubing, and deal with it dripping when removed?
 
I saw the part # a few months ago scanning the threads, thanks. I did a total disassembly/clean of them, nothing stuck, just a lot of build up. It seems most people switch both out at once, and possibly upgrade the flow rate. Does that seem to affect anything other than drain time?
I saw there is a guy up in Everett selling his zymatic. I was considering buying it for parts/extra step filter. Does it seem the pumps just slowly die? I kinda assumed it would just kick and not run anymore. Debating about how cost effective it would be to just get a backup system, or just the parts needed now.

On a side note, I have one of the original step filter, without the holes. I also got on second one with the holes, but no rubber plugs. Any suggestions on a replacement part for the plugs? I cant even find a decent picture of them
You can try and replace the drain pump with one with a greater capacity. e.g. BRAND NEW SEAFLO 12V DC 1.1GPM 70 PSI Water Pressure Pump for RV Boat Marine 647336945126 | eBay

versus this which is in the zymatic
SEAFLO 2.6LPM 0.7GPM 12V 1.2A 20PSI Water Pressure Pump SFDP1-007-020-21 735940184243 | eBay
which has a 1.1 gal/min vs 0.7.

I think Mike Howard has tried this.
James
 
Yup, topped it off
I switched the two pumps(including electric) and it was still having the same issue. I then tried my second step filter and it drained fine. After looking around, the rubber skirt inside the drain hole was torn, probably restricting flow. I pulled it out, any ideas on a replacement piece? it appears to be a small rubber tube that pulls in on the end, unless the drain port is inserted in. Could I just replace it with a piece of silicone tubing, and deal with it dripping when removed?
That little silicone valve is a Cross Slit One Way Duck Check Valve. I've yet to be able to locate an exact match, but again I have not put a lot of effort into it since I found one that I shoe-horned into it.

I think I was searching for one that was 1/2" x 1/2" x 1/4" (13mm x 13mm x 6mm) or so and ran across that match on Amazon which has an ID of 8mm. I ended up ordering several different sizes and one of them worked. I never got back around to actually adding that item to the parts list, however, it is still on my "todo" list.

If you have some calipers, you can try to get a better measurement off the one you have and then just search for a close match. Silicone it in place with some food grade silicone and call it good for now.
 
Sorry folks, our brewery has been at a festival all weekend and I've been busy. If you need the glycol instructions, PM me and I'll give you my email address.
 
I can walk you through how to set up your stepper arm so it aligns over each hole. I responded to your note about it.
Sorry to bother you about this 3 y/o post - but I'm having trouble with this and I really want to get it repaired before Christmas! Did you by any chance post a guide to fixing the stepper arm not aligning with the holes?
 
Sorry to bother you about this 3 y/o post - but I'm having trouble with this and I really want to get it repaired before Christmas! Did you by any chance post a guide to fixing the stepper arm not aligning with the holes?
I never created an Alignment Guide for this procedure.

What I learned is that the physical disk controls the alignment of the arm. This means that alignment can be slightly off at some of the holes as the arm swings around. Your best bet is to align the arm at the HOME position and make fine tweaks until the arm stops at each location over the holes in the cover. It won't be perfect, but it shouldn't make a mess.

You can access the TEST MENU of the Zymatic and find the STEPPER STOPS menu item, to use while adjusting the position. There is a small "allen head" set screw in the Stepper Arm drive mechanism that will let you slightly adjust where the arm stops. This set screw will allow you to move the OPTIC DISK CLOCKWISE or COUNTER-CLOCKWISE, to adjust the stopping position of the arm as the disk breaks the LIGHT CIRCUIT in the OPTIC POSITION SENSOR.

PM me for more information.
 
I never created an Alignment Guide for this procedure.

What I learned is that the physical disk controls the alignment of the arm. This means that alignment can be slightly off at some of the holes as the arm swings around. Your best bet is to align the arm at the HOME position and make fine tweaks until the arm stops at each location over the holes in the cover. It won't be perfect, but it shouldn't make a mess.

You can access the TEST MENU of the Zymatic and find the STEPPER STOPS menu item, to use while adjusting the position. There is a small "allen head" set screw in the Stepper Arm drive mechanism that will let you slightly adjust where the arm stops. This set screw will allow you to move the OPTIC DISK CLOCKWISE or COUNTER-CLOCKWISE, to adjust the stopping position of the arm as the disk breaks the LIGHT CIRCUIT in the OPTIC POSITION SENSOR.

PM me for more information.
I just took the back off the machine last night and I was wondering how that worked - thank you! I can get that fixed pretty easily.

Unfortunately, it seems like the drain pump isn't turning on at all so that's going to be much trickier to sort out. I can't BELIEVE how difficult it is to get into that bottom compartment.
 
FYI for anyone needing to rebuild their Stepper Arm. When you put the arm back together, remember to use this (Haynes 80S Lubri-Film Plus) lubricant. If you don't use a good food grade lube, you will ruin the seals in a very short time.

Also, here is a link back to when I rebuilt my stepper arm for the first time.
 
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Hello all - very long time lurker on these boards, and extremely appreciative of all the information shared. I was an early Zymatic brewer, and went for the Z2 upgrade before Pico went under. Maintenance practices seem to be about the same, however the Z series does have easier access to the hardware for glycol top ups, etc. And while most of the parts appear to be off the shelf, I had a recent thermal fuse failure for which I have not been able to source a supply. Hoping the brain trust can assist.

This thermal fuse is screwed to the back of the boiler in a Z system, and sits in between the relay and the heater element. I'm sure I can find a suitable 121c 250v contact fuse for another application, but this is the first time I have been unable to easily locate this exact part. Any ideas?

Appreciate the help, as I'm down one Z and drinking my way through my home brew backlog! Thanks! :)
image1.jpeg
 
Could I get the glycol mod need to add resovor as I have the fatal error one
@aviation6614 we don't currently have a document for the reservoir build. If you search this thread you can see what others have done from a simple tube to the top to something more elaborate like an oil catch can.

I sent you a PM in case you were needing the Glycol Refill procedure
 
Hello all - very long time lurker on these boards, and extremely appreciative of all the information shared. I was an early Zymatic brewer, and went for the Z2 upgrade before Pico went under. Maintenance practices seem to be about the same, however the Z series does have easier access to the hardware for glycol top ups, etc. And while most of the parts appear to be off the shelf, I had a recent thermal fuse failure for which I have not been able to source a supply. Hoping the brain trust can assist.

This thermal fuse is screwed to the back of the boiler in a Z system, and sits in between the relay and the heater element. I'm sure I can find a suitable 121c 250v contact fuse for another application, but this is the first time I have been unable to easily locate this exact part. Any ideas?

Appreciate the help, as I'm down one Z and drinking my way through my home brew backlog! Thanks! :)
View attachment 839769

Not the right form factor
https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Baile-RY121-10A-250V-Thermal-Fuses_1600165549053.html
Close
https://kb-3d.com/store/heated-bed-...c-trip-temperature-ceramic-1634486072757.html
Now, what does the back of that item look like? Can you pull it and see if the internal fuse can be replaced?
 
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Thanks Mike. The existing thermal fuse is definitely encased in ceramic. There is no way I can pull it out of the casing. The back is the same as the front, only blank. I saw the 125c and also thought it would be close enough to work. Everything else is just the thermal fuse on a bare wire, which is not as easy to mount to the boiler. Thanks for the response and the suggestions! Your knowledge and experience with these machines is fantastic!
 
As a reminder to everyone.

Always pay really close attention to the sound your Zymatic makes when first turned on. This will be the first indication that you might be low on glycol. It should not sound like the pump is cavitating at all and it should not surge.
 
@Mike Howard
Thanks, I skipped replacing the duck valve and just get a little dripage when I pull the step filter out. Besides that no more pump issues.
How the issue I am getting is the step arm bubbling back up. I took a look at your tear down and will do that. Should the silicone seals on the stepper arm both be inserted down the tube? Very pic I see has one above it, not sure what that is doing, and one inserted down. I assume these should both be well lubed up with haynes?
thanks for your help
 
@Zachary Macmillen both of the silicone sleeves should be coated in Haynes Lube and inserted into the tube. The reason they creep up is that the sleeves are not properly lubed, or have dried out and need maintenance. This should be a periodic maintenance check and the reason I no longer screw my lid down.
 
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