Metalworking Table for Fabricating Brewing Equipment

[Normans54]

Hi all,

I recognize I am stretching the limits of what is appropriate to discuss here, but I am just starting to get into metalwork and want to incorporate it into my DIY brewing projects. While learning how to use a MIG/TIG welder and plasma cutter are definitely on my to do list, l only have the ability to solder and braze right now (though I do have both a grinder and an abrasive cut-off saw.) Given my desire to get into metalwork, I need a suitable work table for grinding/cutting/brazing. My plan was to build a table top out of MDF which I would then wrap in bended galvanized steel sheet metal (as I those are the materials to which I have the easiest access). I would then “seal” the corners of the bended sheet metal with low temperature solder specially designed for use on galvanized steel. Before I do all that work, however, I wanted to know if this would provide a surface for metalworking that would be suitably protected from sparks/open flames as well as something strong/stable enough to clamp stock to when fabricating. Thanks so much for any advice/feedback!

 

[day_trippr]

I would not use galvanized steel on a welding table. Not only is it potentially bad for your health it will contaminate your metals and tools. Straight mild steel will work fine.

fwiw, when I was attending the Youtube School Of Gas MIG Welding to learn how to weld up my brew rig I took a flat solid core door, placed it across a pair of tall sawhorses, and screwed a slab of 14 gauge sheet steel to one side (I used flat head screws and matching countersunk holes). That worked great and I still drag it out on occasion for other projects. There were times where I was working tight to that sheet of steel for long-ish periods and the underlying wood door would smolder a bit. Not sure if MDF would be any worse in that regard.

Not sure "wrapping" the steel over the edges will provide any greater utility to your table. Imo, everything happens on top or higher. Might want to give that some thought as it would be a significant complication: a stout enough gauge to provide a useful life span will resist anything approaching a sharp bend unless you take it to a pro shop with a massive brake...

Cheers!

 

[Normans54]

I would not use galvanized steel on a welding table. Not only is it potentially bad for your health it will contaminate your metals and tools. Straight mild steel will work fine.

fwiw, when I was attending the Youtube School Of Gas MIG Welding to learn how to weld up my brew rig I took a flat solid core door, placed it across a pair of tall sawhorses, and screwed a slab of 14 gauge sheet steel to one side (I used flat head screws and matching countersunk holes). That worked great and I still drag it out on occasion for other projects. There were times where I was working tight to that sheet of steel for long-ish periods and the underlying wood door would smolder a bit. Not sure if MDF would be any worse in that regard.

Not sure "wrapping" the steel over the edges will provide any greater utility to your table. Imo, everything happens on top or higher. Might want to give that some thought as it would be a significant complication: a stout enough gauge to provide a useful life span will resist anything approaching a sharp bend unless you take it to a pro shop with a massive brake...

Cheers!

Thanks for the feedback. I knew galvanized would contaminate stuff if it came in contact with water/was used in the brewing process, but I didn’t know it would contaminate my tools. Will def. be switching to mild steel. The reason for wrapping the sheet metal around the edges is that in my experience, it is difficult to clamp things directly to MDF because it is so brittle (particularly when it is on the edge of the board.) My thinking was that wrapping the edges in metal and sealing them with solder would give me an edge with enough support to firmly hold stock down while working with it.

 

[Golddiggie]

IME with MIG welding, going with thin metal is a great way to learn about how it will warp all over the place. You'll not have a flat part of it in short order. I started with a piece of 3/16" steel as my initial welding surface. After that warped on me (bad enough that it was not flat enough to use) I would up getting a piece of 18"x20"x1" steel from a friend that I put legs onto. I recently gave that away since I needed to reclaim the space more than that table. I have a larger one (also 1" thick steel) that I use anyway.

I have a friend that welds for a living and his table is 1/2" thick steel plate with another 1/2" thick plate of aluminum on top of that. He primarily TIG welds, using the aluminum surface. But, he can easily remove that and use the steel surface for working on larger pieces. Or when he needs to make jigs to hold things in position.

IIRC welding (any form) on galvanized metal will release toxic gases that you'll breathe in. Not something I would even think about doing. Same thing with flame welding it or even flame cutting (including plasma cutting) it. Unless you have a Mongo level fan to blow the fumes away from you at least.

Fumes that can mess you up is another reason I won't stick, or flux core MIG, weld. Maybe if I was out in a field someplace needing to weld something and that was my only option. Luckily, I don't do that kind of thing. Everything I'm welding is in the garage/dirty shop area.

If you're having a hard time finding a good hunk of steel to use for a surface, try going to scrap yards in your area. There are a few in my area where I've seen large pieces of steel that would be perfect for tables. Thick and large enough. IF I didn't already have one that works well in the space I have for it, I would have snagged one of them long ago. Hell, I have a decent sized piece (almost/about 3'x3') of AR400 plate (1/2" thick IIRC) that I could use for a new welding table. Or make it into the base for the power hammer I plan to build after I move into my own house (without close neighbors).

 

[matt_m]

When I had the space for a shop I built my welding table from a HEAVY angle iron cart someone gave me that had some uber heavy duty casters. I added a 3'x4' 3/8" plate top that stuck over the edges by 6+ inches. Heavier would have been better but my steel guy had a sheet of 3/8 that was a perfect size and gave me a good price. It was thick enough to drill and tap holes for mounting a vise semi-permanent on one corner. I also added a couple 2" receiver tubes and mounted a tubing bender and a different vise on mounts that slid into those. As a bonus, I could mount those on the back of the tractor when I needed an even more substantial or portable base...which is also how I broke a vise lol. I needed the portability of the casters but couldn't find anything affordable that locked so I just made a set of plywood "donuts". I would just lift (barely) the table and slide them in/out with my foot. I didn't have any holes besides the vise holes. I'd clamp at the edges, use magnetic mounts, and once or twice tacked some brackets in place. Then we moved into a subdivision so my daughter could go to a better school. On the plus side I found brewing.

If I wanted to get back into it in my suburban garage I'd be really tempted to go with something like this.

 

[Golddiggie]

@matt_m Using 3/16" steel, with the table you linked, is good for very light duty welding. Both the material thickness you'll be welding and how long you'll be welding before needing to let the table cool down.

I do have wheels on my current table. Not locking, but full caster wheels that can handle at least 250# each. Table, itself, weighs in at probably 150# (if not closer to 200#). I had help setting it on the wheels after I welded the legs onto it. Right now I have my anvil nested under it on the stand I made for that. I need to shift that over to a different base that will be easier to move around.

I've made more than a few things with my MIG welder (Lincoln 180C). My welding buddy is selling his older plasma cutter (HyperTherm 35 IIRC) since he got the 45 model to use with the CNC table he ordered.

For the OP, best advise I can give for the welder you're going to get is to NOT get a low cost brand. Get something from one of the big boys. Lincoln, Miller, Hobart are all solid brands with solid products. I've had Lotos products in the past and wouldn't get them again (finally got rid of the last of those). While their plasma cutter is "OK" it caused issues with a GFCI tripping (noise from the 240 feed on a 120v GFCI outlet fed through the same conduit). Their TIG also gave me issues where I had to turn it off/on often. More pain than either is worth. "Buy once, cry once" really does apply here.

I've welded material easily double the thickness on the chart of my 180C before. It just takes a little more prep and thought to get that done. You'll also learn that the listed settings are guestimates, or starting points, and you'll adjust according to other factors. I even welded a AR500 target onto a bracket for someone that's holding up far longer than the previous weld did (by someone with a stick welder). I got a little advise from people who had done similar things before and that worked.

 

[Normans54]

@matt_m Using 3/16" steel, with the table you linked, is good for very light duty welding. Both the material thickness you'll be welding and how long you'll be welding before needing to let the table cool down.

I do have wheels on my current table. Not locking, but full caster wheels that can handle at least 250# each. Table, itself, weighs in at probably 150# (if not closer to 200#). I had help setting it on the wheels after I welded the legs onto it. Right now I have my anvil nested under it on the stand I made for that. I need to shift that over to a different base that will be easier to move around.

I've made more than a few things with my MIG welder (Lincoln 180C). My welding buddy is selling his older plasma cutter (HyperTherm 35 IIRC) since he got the 45 model to use with the CNC table he ordered.

For the OP, best advise I can give for the welder you're going to get is to NOT get a low cost brand. Get something from one of the big boys. Lincoln, Miller, Hobart are all solid brands with solid products. I've had Lotos products in the past and wouldn't get them again (finally got rid of the last of those). While their plasma cutter is "OK" it caused issues with a GFCI tripping (noise from the 240 feed on a 120v GFCI outlet fed through the same conduit). Their TIG also gave me issues where I had to turn it off/on often. More pain than either is worth. "Buy once, cry once" really does apply here.

I've welded material easily double the thickness on the chart of my 180C before. It just takes a little more prep and thought to get that done. You'll also learn that the listed settings are guestimates, or starting points, and you'll adjust according to other factors. I even welded a AR500 target onto a bracket for someone that's holding up far longer than the previous weld did (by someone with a stick welder). I got a little advise from people who had done similar things before and that worked.

Thx for the feedback. I plan on upgrading to a proper welding setup when I take the plunge into learning MIG/TIG/plasma but for the time being, I don’t need that. As a result, I am thinking about going with 16 gauge cold-rolled steel sheet metal on top of a piece of 3/4” MDF for the time being. However, @day_trippr raised an interesting point about the possibility of the MDF smoldering if exposed to heat for a long time and I cannot imagine it is a good idea to breathe MDF fumes. As a result, I was wondering if it would be a good idea to sandwich some sort of heat shield in between the steel and MDF. Thus far, the only thing I have been able to think of that might prevent that smoldering is a layer of hardiebacker but that is less than ideal given how heavy/thick it would make the table top. Do you have any suggestions for things I could use instead?

 

[Golddiggie]

I'd go with thicker than 16g steel for the surface. At least 10g.

Personally, I'd take a trip to a scrapyard to see what you can find there for something much thicker. You'll pay pennies per pound (typically) to get that. Then just get something to make legs for it, or get a set of legs you can attach to the plate. You could use something as easy as angle iron (2"x2"x1/4" would support a good amount of weight). Run a length across the back and the sides low, then another higher across the front (if you even need that). That way you can get a chair up under it to get closer to what you'll be welding. I make the legs for mine long enough that I can stand at it comfortably to weld. Plus I can place things under it.

If there are any metal shops in your area, you might be able to get a decent price on a hunk of steel from them. More so if you get the rest of the material to make the table at the same time.

IMO, your current plan isn't even "Mickey Mouse" level, it's more of "Goofy" level.

If you put where you're located, I'm sure there's someone that will know of a "honey hole" where you can get a good hunk of steel for the table for short money.

 

[Normans54]

Thanks for the feedback. I live in West Los Angeles so if someone has a line on scrap metal, I would be all over it. That aside, why is 16g not thick enough if I am just going use it as a surface for cutting/grinding/brazing and not MIG/TIG welding or plasma cutting?

 

[Golddiggie]

IME, even brazing will put enough heat into the metal to get it to start warping. You might not think that's a big deal, until you no longer have enough flat surface to actually put something together. 10g gives it more mass to work with and hope to retain integrity. If you ditch the brazing/soldering on that table, then you could go with the thinner metal. At that point, though, you won't really need the metal skin on it. I'd just get a good workbench, or build one. I actually built my latest bench in the garage with a set of heavy duty legs (Amazon) and a 'butcher block' style top from Homeless Despot. I also put a drawer under it for small items that I use often with either my milling machine, or when working on things in the garage area.

If you mount a good size vise to the table, you could use that to hold smaller items.

 

[MaxStout]

Another good reason to use thick plate for the table top is that if you need to pound on work pieces with a hammer you won't dent the top.

If you can't get a hunk of plate at your local scrapyard, check with a steel fabrication shop. They may have a nice cutoff piece to sell you.

 

[Golddiggie]

Nothing beats an anvil for pounding on pieces. Mine is about 150#.

 

[Normans54]

Hrm... Maybe I should just go with a butcher block top for the table and get a small, cheap welding table that I can pull out when needed instead. Thx for the advice!

 

[Golddiggie]

IMO "cheap" welding tables are cheap for good reasons.

The workbench I made (mentioned earlier) will be used to hold the belt grinder (2x72) I'm building. Plus have room for other things, depending on how I position it.

If you come across an anvil in decent shape, for non-retarded prices, grab it. Even a 50# anvil would be of good use. Ones from places like Harbor Fright are not what I would get (for any use). Find a nice condition, old one, and you'll have one that will probably outlive you. The one I have was a friend's father's. Since he already had one, it was offered to me. We lifted it onto his Bridgeport mill and took the divot out of the surface (about 3/16" deep). That took about 5 hours and the power feed on the table was NOT happy after about an hour. We used the handles to move it to climb mill to get it taken care of.

 

[Normans54]

Generally speaking, there is always a reason why something is “cheap”. While I will definitely spring for a nice welding table when it comes time to get deeper into the craft, I am just getting into metalwork right now so all I need is a relatively compact surface that won’t melt, catch fire, or fall apart while I am learning how to use the tools of the trade. From what I have seen, I can get a 2’x3’ welding table with an 8ga steel top for under $250. That should suit me fine for the time being (particularly given that I have a ton of other table space that I can drape with welding blankets if I need more room to work.) However, I do look forward to the day that I buy a fabblock welding table (not to mention a nice multi-process welding machine, anvil, bench grinder, and all the other toys that come with the hobby.) Thanks for the advice. It definitely was helpful.