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O-Ale-Yeah

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This is my attempt to make a checklist for me and my newbie friends. I did everything wrong with my first brew and did a little better with my current brew.

5.5 Gallon Brew Directions

o Set 9 gallons of water out for 1 to 2 days to rid it of chlorine or boil for 15 minutes.

o Warm or cool water to:

o 137°F if needing a protein rest mash temp of 122°F if recommended for your grist.

o 140°F for mash-in temp of 125°F if a clean, thin, dry, watery beer, with higher alcohol value is wanted.

o 167°F for a mash-in temp of 152°F if recommended for your grist or if shooting for moderate body & moderate alcohol content.

o 172°F to mash at 157 °F if a full-bodied, sweeter, thicker-feel beer with lower alcohol content is wanted.

o Heat water to 180 for a 10-minute mash-out temp of 170°F if you want.

o Pour 1.5 quarts of strike water per pound of grist into mashtun & stir in grist. Stir every 15 minutes if you want.

o Check mash pH and adjust if needed.

o Adjust temperature as set durations if doing step mashing by adding hot water or removing, heating, & returning mash. Total mash duration ranges from 60-90 minutes.

o Prepare your yeast:

o Sanitize a 2-cup container. Boil 1.5 cups of water for 3 minutes & pour 1.25 cups into container. Cover container with lid, foil, or cling wrap & allow to cool to 70°F before sprinkling in dry yeast.

o Heat kettle water to 170°F to prepare fly sparge water or your chosen temp if batch sparging.

o After 30 to 90 minutes check wort using iodine to see if all starches have been converted to sugar, if you want.

o Vorlof, filter some wort back into itself 3 or 4 times to run clean before filtering back into the kettle.

o If Fly sparging, randomly sprinkle 170°F water into mash keeping a 1 to 2-inch layer of water above the grain. Open ball valve draining mashtun at a slow pace as you fly sparge over a duration of 45-60 minutes until reaching desired kettle volume, or,

o If batch sparging, drain mashtun & fill with chosen volume of chosen water temp.

o Boil wort for 60-90 minutes (in KC water boils at 201°F).

o Toss in hops at designated durations.

o Place wort chiller in boil 5 minutes before end of boil to sterilize it (takes 2 minutes to sterilize)

o Cover & cool rapidly down to 70°F with wort chiller &/or ice bath around pot. Keep it covered as much as possible since wort is now vulnerable to contamination. From here out, everything that touches the wort must be sanitized.

o Check & record specific gravity.

o Whirlpool wort to create trub cone & transfer into fermenter through a fine filter, if you like,

o or siphon wort through superfine filter, if you want, into fermenter to filter out the bulk of the trub,

o or just dump wort into fermenter if you do not mind sediment.

o Shake to oxygenate the wort.

o Pitch yeast into wort making sure that yeast water, & wort are within 10°F of one another.

o Set up airlock w/ recommended liquid trap, or bung & blow off tube & blow-off bottle 1/3rd full of sanitizer mix.

o Store at 65-70°F for ale, in darkness for 2 to 4 weeks.

o 3 to 5 days after the yeast stop swimming & the blow off or airlock stops bubbling, check the gravity to see if beer if finished fermenting. Final gravity, FG, should be 20-25% of original gravity, OG.

o Boil 1-2 cups of water with: 5 oz of corn sugar, or 0.66 cups of white sugar, or 1.25 cups dry malt extract. Cool to room temp & pour into bottling bucket. Use 100% of recommended sugar in relation to beer volume for full carbonation or 3/4th of recommendation for lightly carbonated beer.

o Carefully, smoothly, siphon beer into bottling bucket.

o Siphon beer into sanitized bottles with the goal of not hydrating or splashing the beer. Place a cap on each bottle as you go & clamp down after each, or wait to clamp all after you are done with all the bottles.

o Store bottles in 65 to 75°F space for 2 to 4 weeks. If storing for longer than 4 weeks, move bottles to refrigerator.
 
Last edited:
I find that generic checklists are good for you, but everybody has different processes and equipment. I have a similar summary checklist that I used to use myself for many years. To actually teach people how to brew, there are several books that have a good intro to brewing (like "How to Brew").

What you describe seems like a decent steps, but not "the" steps. I do some things differently, but some comments I have:
  • I have to use Campden tablets to dive off the Chloramine in my water, as resting is only good for Chlorine.
  • I don't let "water for every pound of grist" drive how much water I need. It is more a factor of Target Ending Volume + Grain Absorption (which does change based on the amount of grain) + Other Losses (boil off, loss in kettle, etc.). The water does not change that much between a batch with 9 lbs of grain and 16 lbs (not 5.4 gal vs 9.6 gal). When I was fly sparging I mostly just prepped ~9 gal of water. Now that I BIAB, I calc my water more closely.
  • I don't know what "140°F for mash-in temp of 125°F..." is about. 125F is the Protein Rest range, and I have not done a step mash in a long time.
  • In general your strike water temps are 4-5 degrees higher than what I need for my setup, but I have always mashed in the pot with my heated water (and it varies based on grain temps and mash thickness).
  • The term is "mash tun" vs "mash ton".
  • I don't rehydrate dried yeast, but some do. Your steps only apply to dried yeast. For liquid yeast a starter is normally desired. If pitching harvested yeast, methods vary.
  • Ideally you are cooling your wort down more in the 65F range before pitching most ale yeasts.
I only recently got a pH meter and I took my first pH reading last weekend (was 6.7 for an IPA). I am slowly getting into water/pH treatments after a long time brewing all-grain.
 
I find that generic checklists are good for you, but everybody has different processes and equipment. I have a similar summary checklist that I used to use myself for many years. To actually teach people how to brew, there are several books that have a good intro to brewing (like "How to Brew").

What you describe seems like a decent steps, but not "the" steps. I do some things differently, but some comments I have:
  • I have to use Campden tablets to dive off the Chloramine in my water, as resting is only good for Chlorine.
  • I don't let "water for every pound of grist" drive how much water I need. It is more a factor of Target Ending Volume + Grain Absorption (which does change based on the amount of grain) + Other Losses (boil off, loss in kettle, etc.). The water does not change that much between a batch with 9 lbs of grain and 16 lbs (not 5.4 gal vs 9.6 gal). When I was fly sparging I mostly just prepped ~9 gal of water. Now that I BIAB, I calc my water more closely.
  • I don't know what "140°F for mash-in temp of 125°F..." is about. 125F is the Protein Rest range, and I have not done a step mash in a long time.
  • In general your strike water temps are 4-5 degrees higher than what I need for my setup, but I have always mashed in the pot with my heated water (and it varies based on grain temps and mash thickness).
  • The term is "mash tun" vs "mash ton".
  • I don't rehydrate dried yeast, but some do. Your steps only apply to dried yeast. For liquid yeast a starter is normally desired. If pitching harvested yeast, methods vary.
  • Ideally you are cooling your wort down more in the 65F range before pitching most ale yeasts.
I only recently got a pH meter and I took my first pH reading last weekend (was 6.7 for an IPA). I am slowly getting into water/pH treatments after a long time brewing all-grain.
Thanks for the great info. :)
 
Any critiques before I hand them out to a dozen peeps?
Brew Directions

o Set 0.6 gallons of water for every pound of grist out for 1 to 2 days to rid it of chlorine or boil for 15 minutes.

o Warm or cool water to:

o 137°F if needing a protein rest mash temp of 122°F if recommended for your grist.

o 140°F for mash-in temp of 125°F if a clean, thin, dry, watery beer, with higher alcohol value is wanted.

o 167°F for a mash-in temp of 152°F if recommended for your grist or if shooting for moderate body & moderate alcohol content.

o 172°F to mash at 157 °F if a full-bodied, sweeter, thicker-feel beer with lower alcohol content is wanted.

o Heat water to 180 for a 10 minute mash-out temp of 170°F if you want.

o Pour 0.34 gallons of water into mash ton for every pound of grist, water goes first.

o Stir grist into mash ton & set for 60-90 minutes or if doing a rest, the desired duration before raising the temp.

o Stir mash every 15 minutes.

o Prepare your yeast:

o Sanitize a 2-cup container. Boil 1.5 cups of water for 3 minutes & pour 1.25 cups into container. Cover container with lid, foil, or cling wrap & allow to cool to 70°F before sprinkling in yeast.

o Heat HLT water to 170°F to prepare fly sparge water or your chosen temp if batch sparging.

o After 30 to 90 minutes check wort using iodine to see if all starches have been converted to sugar, if you want.

o Vorlof, filter some wort back into itself 3 or 4 times to run clean before filtering back into the HLT.

o If Fly sparging, sprinkle 170°F water into mash, with mash ton just barely floating, at a slow pace as you drain mash ton at the same slow pace over a duration of 30-60 minutes until reaching desired HLT volume, or,

o If batch sparging, drain mash ton and fill with chosen volume of chosen water temp.

o Boil wort for 60-90 minutes (in KC water boils at 201°F).

o Toss in hops at designated durations.

o Place wort chiller in boil 5 minutes before end of boil to sterilize it (takes 2 minutes to sterilize)

o Cover & cool rapidly down to 70-75°F with wort chiller &/or ice bath around pot. Keep it covered as much as possible since wort is now vulnerable to contamination. From here out, everything that touches the wort must be sanitized.

o Check & record specific gravity.

o Whirlpool wort to create trub cone & transfer into fermenter through a fine filter, if you like,

o or siphon wort through superfine filter, if you want, into fermenter to filter out the bulk of the trub,

o or just dump wort into fermenter.

o Shake to oxygenate the wort.

o Pitch yeast into wort making sure that yeast water, & wort are within 8°F of one another.

o Set up airlock w/ recommended liquid trap, or bung & blow off tube & blow-off bottle 1/3rd full of sanitizer mix.

o Store at 60-70°F for ale, in darkness for 2 to 4 weeks until fermentation slows to less than 1 bubble every 5 minutes.

o Check gravity to see if beer if finished fermenting. Final gravity, FG, should be 20-25% of original gravity, OG.

o Boil 2 cups of water with: 5 oz of corn sugar, or .66 cups of white sugar, or 1.25 cups dry malt extract. Stir & pour into bottling bucket. Use 100% of recommended sugar in relation to actual beer volume for full carbonation or 3/4th of recommendation for lightly carbonated beer.

o Carefully, smoothly, siphon beer into bottling bucket.

o Siphon beer into sanitized bottles with the goal of not hydrating or splashing the beer.

o Store bottles in 65 to 75°F space for 2 weeks or more
if youre writing this for a beginner, its too confusing.
 
Way too long, way too confusing, and a lot missing.

Once you get into this detail, you need to be more complete .... you are just asking for questions. Some simple examples; when do you take the OG? Aren't all beers 'Ales', so why specify temp ferment temp for 'Ales', then there is lager, Belgians, Sours, etc. Why does yeast have to be within 8 F of wort? It doesn't! After all these details you try to use, you use a specific amount of sugar for bottling; it would have been better to direct to a calculator. I never use iodine.

Lots missing, and the limited scope will limit people from doing what is right when not making the standard beer.

I've seen a couple of your posts, and am now wondering if you know much about brewing, or if this is for a School project, and you are just copying information you have read in a couple of books. I may be way off, but that is how it is coming across.
 
Way too long, way too confusing, and a lot missing.

Once you get into this detail, you need to be more complete .... you are just asking for questions. Some simple examples; when do you take the OG? Aren't all beers 'Ales', so why specify temp ferment temp for 'Ales', then there is lager, Belgians, Sours, etc. Why does yeast have to be within 8 F of wort? It doesn't! After all these details you try to use, you use a specific amount of sugar for bottling; it would have been better to direct to a calculator. I never use iodine.

Lots missing, and the limited scope will limit people from doing what is right when not making the standard beer.

I've seen a couple of your posts, and am now wondering if you know much about brewing, or if this is for a School project, and you are just copying information you have read in a couple of books. I may be way off, but that is how it is coming across.
It's too long but also missing stuff and leaves unanswered questions? If I answered all questions and covered things other than a standard beer it would be even longer. I'm just going for the basics.

I'm just copying stuff I read? Yes, of course I am. I've read and watched videos and am trying to take all I've learned and put the basics into a 1st time, general guide for my friends.

I don't know much about brewing? Yes that's why my signature admits that I've only brewed 2 beers and that's why this post is in the beginners forum. Because I'm a beginner.
 
I find that generic checklists are good for you, but everybody has different processes and equipment. I have a similar summary checklist that I used to use myself for many years. To actually teach people how to brew, there are several books that have a good intro to brewing (like "How to Brew").

What you describe seems like a decent steps, but not "the" steps. I do some things differently, but some comments I have:
  • I have to use Campden tablets to dive off the Chloramine in my water, as resting is only good for Chlorine.
  • I don't let "water for every pound of grist" drive how much water I need. It is more a factor of Target Ending Volume + Grain Absorption (which does change based on the amount of grain) + Other Losses (boil off, loss in kettle, etc.). The water does not change that much between a batch with 9 lbs of grain and 16 lbs (not 5.4 gal vs 9.6 gal). When I was fly sparging I mostly just prepped ~9 gal of water. Now that I BIAB, I calc my water more closely.
  • I don't know what "140°F for mash-in temp of 125°F..." is about. 125F is the Protein Rest range, and I have not done a step mash in a long time.
  • In general your strike water temps are 4-5 degrees higher than what I need for my setup, but I have always mashed in the pot with my heated water (and it varies based on grain temps and mash thickness).
  • The term is "mash tun" vs "mash ton".
  • I don't rehydrate dried yeast, but some do. Your steps only apply to dried yeast. For liquid yeast a starter is normally desired. If pitching harvested yeast, methods vary.
  • Ideally you are cooling your wort down more in the 65F range before pitching most ale yeasts.
I only recently got a pH meter and I took my first pH reading last weekend (was 6.7 for an IPA). I am slowly getting into water/pH treatments after a long time brewing all-grain.
Thanks, I made the changes you recommended. :)
 
I know a lot of beginners start right out the gate with AG brewing but it can be quite complicated and discouraging if you don’t reach an acceptable result. Extract brewing could be easier for some since it’s easier to concentrate on the brewing process minus the mashing steps. Kits typically include everything needed for that particular recipe and equipment needs are less complicated unless the AG process is BIAB. I’m not necessarily endorsing them, but MoreBeer has decent instructions that they include with each AG or extract kit and can be reviewed online if you want some examples to look at.

https://www.morebeer.com/images/file.php?file_id=958

https://www.morebeer.com/images/file.php?file_id=1157

Good luck
 
I know a lot of beginners start right out the gate with AG brewing but it can be quite complicated and discouraging if you don’t reach an acceptable result. Extract brewing could be easier for some since it’s easier to concentrate on the brewing process minus the mashing steps. Kits typically include everything needed for that particular recipe and equipment needs are less complicated unless the AG process is BIAB. I’m not necessarily endorsing them, but MoreBeer has decent instructions that they include with each AG or extract kit and can be reviewed online if you want some examples to look at.

https://www.morebeer.com/images/file.php?file_id=958

https://www.morebeer.com/images/file.php?file_id=1157

Good luck
Very cool, thanks. This looks like an excellent guide to model musteps on. :)
 
Way too complicated for beginners. Way to many generalizations. Some inaccuracies.

It would work? Sure. Best practices? Some OK, some not so good.

IMO, Needs quite a bit of work.
 
Way too complicated for beginners. Way to many generalizations. Some inaccuracies.

It would work? Sure. Best practices? Some OK, some not so good.

IMO, Needs quite a bit of work.
Thanks. This is just literally for me and some of my newbie friends if they want a checkoff list. I took a crack at fixing inaccuracies but I'm having trouble cutting it down. I'll replace the original post.
 
It might be better to break it down into categories. The way I see it you'll need at least 6 categories: 1) pre brew day 2) cleaning/sanitation 3) mash 4) boil 5) fermentation 6) packaging

Maybe make a visual diagram rather than a plain checklist.

Obviously the brewer will have to have some prior knowledge otherwise you'll never be able to make a master checklist that covers all the questions.
 
Thanks. This is just literally for me and some of my newbie friends if they want a checkoff list. I took a crack at fixing inaccuracies but I'm having trouble cutting it down. I'll replace the original post.

If it is just for you and your friends that have similar setups, all that really matters is that it covers all that you need and that you understand it. In that case you don't have to cover all the bases for others who will be using different procedures.
 
I see a little bit of a pattern here when combined with your other post about a checksheet for recording brewday data.

I'm certainly not averse--not at all--to recording data so that one can understand what happened and reproduce it in the future if the result was good. However--you knew this was coming--I believe you can go overboard with this, so much so that you can't see the forest for all the trees in the way.

[My opinion is that new brewers, if they want to progress quickly, should brew simple recipes at the outset, even repeating them so as to nail down the process. I see new brewers all the time who want to progress to a "coconut maple stout with juicy hops in a lager-like carbonated bliss" type of beer, and there's so much going on that when it doesn't turn out, they can't even guess why--recipe, process, what? In fact, I think they should watch an experienced brewer do a brew day, if possible, or find a mentor to help get them past the newbie phase as quickly as possible.]

I see what I'd consider to be the same overcomplication above. For example, you're including temperatures for dough-in, which are almost certainly going to be incorrect.

Here's why: mash temp is a combination of several things, and you're accounting for only one of them (water temp). The larger the amount of grain, the more the temp will drop. The colder the grain, the more the temp will drop. What temperature the mash tun is before dough-in will also influence final temp. Early in my brewing career I once thought I'd be clever, and crushed the grain the night before, covered it in bucket, and used it the next day. It was in a 50-degree garage, instead of the more normal 65 degree temp from the house. What happened? Lower mash temps than I had anticipated.

Further, you're including instructions for things like a protein rest, which is something brewers today almost never have to do, and which, IMO, no new brewer should be fooling with. I've never done one. Ever. Neither should you unless you have a specific reason.

Further yet, you're sanitizing 1.5 cups of water into which to sprinkle yeast. When I've rehydrated yeast I've used maybe 1/4 cup of water; manufacturers of dry yeast typically recommend 10x of the yeast weight in water, which would be about 3-4 ounces of water, not 12. Where did you get that? I've never heard of it.

Further even yet, you're doing an iodine test. Nothing wrong with that. Know how many times I've done that? Never. I can tell what kind of conversion I'm getting by checking gravity.

*********

I believe everybody has the right to brew in a way that makes them happy. If this makes you happy, ok.

But as advice for new brewers, IMO it's not good. It overcomplicates what should be a joyous experience. It includes things that really are not correct (to avoid sediment avoid trub????), is incomplete on some things (e.g., mash temps), and includes things you probably will not need to do (iodine, protein rest).

*********

So--let me offer a suggestion. Chill a bit. Brew, and figure out what works in your setup. Don't assume it necessarily translates to others' situation.

If you're using 9 gallons of water (I never have used more than 8.25 gallons in a single-infusion setup and it's only that high to account for hose, pump, and kettle losses), that's a lot for a 5-gallon batch. Your numbers aren't going to be helpful for anyone brewing like I did, such as when I did BIAB the most I ever used was 7.25, when I was doing traditional mash tun and sparging, 8.25 gallons was it.

There is no one-size fits all set of instructions for brewing and, if your newbie friends use this, IMO they're going to be surprised at the results, and not in a good way.
 
One more thing: you say water boils at 201 degrees in KC. Is that KC, Missouri? If you're boiling water at 201 in KC Missouri, there's something wrong with your thermometer.
 
@O-Ale-Yeah: By analogy, there is no single process description for cooking eggs (hard boiled vs poached, ...)

There is no one-size fits all set of instructions for brewing and, if your newbie friends use this, IMO they're going to be surprised at the results, and not in a good way.

I agree.

Recipe kits support the idea that a common process (60 minute mash, 60 minute boil, rapid chill down) can be used to brew many styles of beer. I can construct a similar common process using DME/LME. But now I have two processes for brewing beer - that vary by ingredient.

Brulosophy seems to support the idea that there are numerous processes (for example "Hop Stand: Hot vs. Chilled Wort") that result in a beer that is similar and enjoyable.

For me, with each different process, I want to use a checklist specific to the process.
 
Aren't all beers 'Ales', so why specify temp ferment temp for 'Ales', then there is lager, Belgians, Sours, etc.

I'm very confused by this. Are you trying to say "Not all beers are ales"?

Why does yeast have to be within 8 F of wort? It doesn't!

Yeast definitely should be close to wort temp when pitching. Pitching yeast directly from the fridge will shock the cells. It even tells you to warm the yeast up right on the packaging on all yeast.
 
It might be better to break it down into categories. The way I see it you'll need at least 6 categories: 1) pre brew day 2) cleaning/sanitation 3) mash 4) boil 5) fermentation 6) packaging

Maybe make a visual diagram rather than a plain checklist.

Obviously the brewer will have to have some prior knowledge otherwise you'll never be able to make a master checklist that covers all the questions.
That's a great idea. I'll definitely put it into categories. Thanks!
 
Just for the sake of this conversation, below is my "cheat sheet". I have not updated since moving to BIAB and I don't really use it much. I did find it was handy 1) to force me to think enough about my process to write it and updated it now and then 2) it was kind of handy at times when I had not brewed in many months to jog my memory about important steps.

Typical Brew Instructions
All Grain - Single Infusion
Prep
• Prepare yeast starter day before or activate yeast starter
• Calculate required water volumes and temperatures for mash and sparge
• Measure and treat mash and sparge water (in large pot and small pot)
Mash
• Heat required mash water (1.25 to 1.5 qt per lb of grain to ~168-170F)
• Measure and crush grains
• Combine grain and water in pot in insulated box
• Mix grain and water thoroughly
• Allow to set for 3 minutes and adjust temp as needed
• Allow to mash for ~1 hour (check temp and stir every 30 minutes)
o High temp (158°F) gives less fermentable (sweeter) wort
o Low temp (150°F) gives higher fermentable (drier) wort
o Typical mash 152 - 154°F for 60 to 90 minutes​
Sparge and Mash Out (begin 30 minutes before mash is complete)
• Heat required sparge water to 170 degrees
• Prepare lauter tun (bucket, false bottom, tubing, clamp)
• Mash out: Heat mash to 168 degrees, hold for 5 minutes
• Sparge into brew pot, collect 6.7 gallons
Boil
• Heat to boil (watch for boil over!)
• Add ingredients per recipe (hops, etc.)
o Irish Moss - 1 teaspoon for last 15 minutes of boil​
• Boil for 60 to 90 minutes
• Begin sanitization procedures with 15 minutes remaining in boil
Cool and Ferment
• Cool the wort to 65 to 70 degrees
• Transfer to gallon carboy
• Pitch yeast
• Aerate wort
• Get ready for fresh beer in 2-3 weeks!!
 
This is actually a sheet that I do use often, to remind me every piece of equipment that I need to prep and sanitize for each step. I guess there were too many "damn, I forgot to sanitize my funnel" type moments. (Now that I am bottling some batches, I will have to add a step for that.)

Brew Sanitization Steps
Chilling
Begin 15 minutes before end of boil
Prepare 2.5 gal of sanitizer solution in bucket (1/2 oz StarSan)
• Wort Chiller (with solution or add to boiling wort)
• Spoon
• Thermometer
Transfer to primary fermenter
• Fermenter (6.5 gal carboy, 5 gal carboy, etc.)
• Auto-siphon
• Transfer hose
• White hose clamp
• Air lock
• Stopper (#7 for carboys)
• Scissors (if using yeast packet)
• Yeast Packet/Jar
• Funnel (if needed for yeast slurry)
• Hydrometer Tube
• Aerator Tube and Air Stone
Transfer into secondary fermenter
• Fermenter (5 gal carboy)
• Auto-siphon
• Stopper (#7)
• Airlock
• Transfer hose
• White hose clamp
• Hydrometer Tube
Kegging
Prepare 2.5 gal of sanitizer solution in bucket (1/2 oz StarSan)
• Keg parts (posts, gaskets, dip tube, lid)
• Auto-siphon
• Transfer hose
• White hose clamp
• Hydrometer tube
Use auto-siphon to transfer solution
• Keg
 
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