how often do you replace elements- debating screw in w/ hot pod vs TC base elements

[Thedutchtouch]

As the title says, I'm debating between using a hot pod (or DIY enclosure) style element where I can use a standard screw in element (with SS base) such as https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/etc4s.htm or one of the newer triclamp-based elements like the one from brewhardware or https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075KCJX8W/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

Assuming we're only talking about triclamp elements, using a welded/soldered triclamp ferrule and not weldless screw-in installs here, the pro to the enclosure with a screw in element is the elements are a bit cheaper, but con being they require an enclosure (which cancels out the element cost savings at least at first) and the pro to the TC elements are they're a cleaner install, con being they're more expensive to replace, so...

how often do you replace your elements? do you even have to replace them at all (assuming you don't accidentally dry fire or something)if brewing 100-200 gal/year in 5-10 gal batches? any thoughts i've missed here or is it a wash and, as most homebrewers like me do, i'm overthinking it and could go either way?

and i know heating elements have been around forever and there's a lot of solid reviews of various elements, anyone have long term experience with the TC based elements?

 

[itsnotrequired]

if i had to do it over again, i would get the element with integrated tc flange and plug connection. those hot pod and similar enclosures are small, kind of a pain to wire up. plus if you remove the element from the kettle for cleaning, the cord is still attached. not the end of the world but it sure is nice to simply unplug the element, undo the tc clamp and remove it for cleaning.

 

[BeardedBrews]

With regards to wearing out an element, I'd plan on one lasting years. On this forum it seems rare that a person involved in electric brewing would go more than 12-24 months before they are overwhelmed with the need to upgrade

I didn't manage to wear out a cheap ebay foldback stainless element in 150 gallons and several accidental dry fires that resulted in scorched wort and much cursing and sanding.

I replaced it with a ripple element simply because I wanted it, I'm sure this one will have a similarly long and happy life. Most of the desire was because the permanently attached wires were a pain for my cleaning process so I went with the quick disconnect version. It's much nicer, spend the money now and enjoy the convenience for the next 5 years instead of wishing for it and not having it.

 

[Thedutchtouch]

alright, sounds like it's 2 for 2 recommending the TC/plug based elements, so to modify my question what's the preferred brands out there? the ones i've seen so far are the Dernord elements on amazon...https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075KCJX8...t=&hvlocphy=9007733&hvtargid=pla-370697404003 , the ones from BRAU supply https://brausupply.com/products/550...h05T7O7lKu_BCsDhXPoy-O5ZNgYPIlnhoC-nUQAvD_BwE, the ones from brewhardware https://www.brewhardware.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=Element5500_RIPPLE_TC . any others/ best out of the bunch? i haven't yet purchased by TC ferrules, so 1.5 inch or 2 inch, either would work for me. the Dernord ones on amazon are 15 bucks cheaper than the others, so is that the deciding factor?

 

[processhead]

To summarize what the others have said, a removable element with a TC adapter is preferable as an aid to brew kettle cleanup rather than for frequent replacement of elements.

My BK is still on element No. 1 after 7 years of regular use.

HLT is still on its first element after 4 years, although it is a bow-tie spa heater type element permanently mounted in the bottom. No need to remove that one though since its only heating water.

 

[Bobby_M]

If you dry fire, all bets are off. That's the hardest part really. No one thinks they will make that mistake but boy does it happen to a LOT of people. I use the tc element and it has been good for 2 years of weekly brewing and I never take it out of the pot.

 

[Thedutchtouch]

Thanks for the continued feedback. I think after some more research I think the elements, I'll be placing a brewhardware order shortly. 15 dollar savings isn't worth it for no customer service etc w/Amazon/ebay elements. @Bobby_M any idea when your 1.5 inch TC radius face solder flange will be back in stock? I'll be ordering two of that variety of the element kits once they are.

 

[ch19]

As Bobby_M says, dry firing your element is the most likely cause of element failure. Triclamp element enclosures offer the best of both worlds: TC for easy kettle cleanup and ability to swap out element in the event of a failure (or an upgrade to a more powerful element.)

 

[mpmccann]

When I went electric, I used Bobby's TC solder on solution and fittings from Brewhardware. I used the screw-on element TC fitting so that in the event I ever had to replace an element I wouldn't have to buy the more expensive elements with the built on TC flange. Hope that makes sense and helps you with your decision.

 

[augiedoggy]

Another vote for the tc element.. I went from the hotpod permenent setup to tc elements myself had a ripple element fail and the second one I bought to replace it was weak from the start at only 4000w. I was reluctant to do so but when I found the tc/plug elements for $16 each through alibaba it was a lot easier to justify the upgrade than $75 each at the time. Now theres all sorts of suppliers. But you cant beat brewardware for honest answers and someone who will stand behind what he sells and thats worth a lot too. I use mine with brewhardwares weldless tc fitting which works perfect. being able to remove and clean them easily is nice. and no cord hanging off is great!

 

[Jayjay1976]

I'd at least plan on quick disconnects for the cables, I have hot pods on my 11 gallon BIAB kettle and they stick out a lot plus require dragging the heavy cabling along when it occasionally needs rinsing out in the sink. Would be so much easier if the cables could just unplug from the kettle.

So far my hot pods haven't leaked at all but they were a pain to install and the metal enclosure isn't nearly as heavy duty as I'd hoped it would be. They seem strong enough to do the job but for the price I would have preferred a more bulletproof level of quality.

When I eventually make the jump to 10 gallon batches I'll solder all the fittings and go with TC elements.

 

[Thedutchtouch]

yeah i've made up my mind re: using the TC elements, just waiting on the brewhardware radius faced solder flanges to get back in stock (since it looks like they're the only supplier of these?), no response to my poke up in post #7 (not that i expect any, he's likely a busy guy) so the wait continues... then i'll be buying two of them and a bunch of the pull through fittings for everything else. so sick of the weldless fittings i have now, i know they work for a lot of people but looking forward to all soldered connections in my next setup.

 

[augiedoggy]

yeah i've made up my mind re: using the TC elements, just waiting on the brewhardware radius faced solder flanges to get back in stock (since it looks like they're the only supplier of these?), no response to my poke up in post #7 (not that i expect any, he's likely a busy guy) so the wait continues... then i'll be buying two of them and a bunch of the pull through fittings for everything else. so sick of the weldless fittings i have now, i know they work for a lot of people but looking forward to all soldered connections in my next setup.

out of curiosity and to help understand why the weldless fitting havent worked well for you I have a question.]Do you take your weldless fitting out when you clean things or leave them alone? Ive had mine installed for almost 5 years now (I have 12 weldless fitting ) and never had an issue with any of them.
Ive found so far that some people are a bit OCD or think the fittings have to be removed and cleaned and that the hot side has to be sterilized.. These are not a good choice for those types of people since they are not meant for this type of temporary use and reuse. the oring seals them and its clean behind the oring anyway so its pointless to remove them.

 

[Thedutchtouch]

out of curiosity and to help understand why the weldless fitting havent worked well for you I have a question.]Do you take your weldless fitting out when you clean things or leave them alone? Ive had mine installed for almost 5 years now (I have 12 weldless fitting ) and never had an issue with any of them.
Ive found so far that some people are a bit OCD or think the fittings have to be removed and cleaned and that the hot side has to be sterilized.. These are not a good choice for those types of people since they are not meant for this type of temporary use and reuse. the oring seals them and its clean behind the oring anyway so its pointless to remove them.

i don't remove to clean any more, but had in the past, and could have messed up the O ring a bit back in the day, but always seemed to have problems walking a tight line between a small leak and some movement of the fitting. to be fair i may have slightly ovaled/ bent the hole when drilling as it's a very flimsy pot, so it could have been more of a mistake on that end rather than the actual fitting. that and the whole wanting to upgrade for likely no real reason other than enjoying the equipment building process as much as the brewing part all adds together to replacing my bayou/propane/biab setup with a 3 vessel raspberry pi based eherms w/soldered fittings.

 

[BeardedBrews]

that and the whole wanting to upgrade for likely no real reason other than enjoying the equipment building process as much as the brewing part all adds together to replacing my bayou/propane/biab setup with a 3 vessel raspberry pi based eherms w/soldered fittings.

Ah yes, the true curse of electric brewing.

 

[processhead]

Ah yes, the true curse of electric brewing.

Curse...or Blessing!

 

[augiedoggy]

i don't remove to clean any more, but had in the past, and could have messed up the O ring a bit back in the day, but always seemed to have problems walking a tight line between a small leak and some movement of the fitting. to be fair i may have slightly ovaled/ bent the hole when drilling as it's a very flimsy pot, so it could have been more of a mistake on that end rather than the actual fitting. that and the whole wanting to upgrade for likely no real reason other than enjoying the equipment building process as much as the brewing part all adds together to replacing my bayou/propane/biab setup with a 3 vessel raspberry pi based eherms w/soldered fittings.

Thanks for answering honestly... like I said, im just trying to understand different peoples uses and why some swear by them and others hate them.
Either way, welded or soldered is the way to go if a person is sure they finally have everything configured the way they want and the cost isnt really a factor.

I myself have added holes and elarged some (tc element is an example) so im glad I went weldless myself.

 

[mpmccann]

Since I can only run one element at a time on my 30 amp system, I made pigtails for my elements w/ twist lock plugs for easy swapping of the power source from HLT to BK. This also helps when removing and cleaning.
I will say this, I couldn't be happier. After switching to all electric, my brew days have been much more enjoyable.