How much yeast & DME do I use for 5 gallons?

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JoefromPhilly

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I was reading in How to Brew, to use 2 packets of yeast, yet in other places i see just one. If I am using dry yeast packets from my LHBS, how many packets do I need for a 5 gallon batch?

Also, if I am using one standard 3.3 lb can of LME, how many pounds of DME should I be adding to create a full-bodied beer?

Thanks.

- Joe
 
I was reading in How to Brew, to use 2 packets of yeast, yet in other places i see just one. If I am using dry yeast packets from my LHBS, how many packets do I need for a 5 gallon batch?

Also, if I am using one standard 3.3 lb can of LME, how many pounds of DME should I be adding to create a full-bodied beer?

Thanks.

- Joe

Yeast: This gets into debates about pitching rates. I typically use one pack of dry yeast and I don't use a starter. If you want to try two packs go ahead. Neither way will ruin your beer.


DME: are you asking about adding 3.3 of LME plus DME? It's about 3 lbs of DME. One 5 gal batch of beer needs 6.6 lbs of LME or 6 lbs of DME. If you want to use half of each that's fine too.

Btw, you do know you need to add hops, right?
 
So, basically, if I add one can of LME, I should add three pounds of dry malt extract. Correct?

Yes, I know about the hops, including AAUs and schedules.

Thanks for asking.
 
If you're just starting out, I'd find an established recipe and add how ever much LME and/or DME it calls for. Or course, that's not what I actually did... but it's what I'd recommend. :D
 
So, basically, if I add one can of LME, I should add three pounds of dry malt extract. Correct?

Yes

Yes, I know about the hops, including AAUs and schedules.

Thanks for asking.

Sorry, I wasn't trying to be insulting. True story, I was as the homebrew store and I was waiting at the counter. I struck up a conversation with the customer next to me and said, "so what are you making?" He said, "I don't know, whatever this can here makes. It's my first batch" He had a can of unhoped malt and 4 lbs of sugar. I had to explain to him that he the can was unhoped. I think I embarrassed the guy, but can you imagine if I hadn't said anything? He would have been pretty disappointed about his first batch.
 
Palmer recommends two dry yeast packets in case one of them is bad. He doesn't intend that you pitch both.
 
Initially the yeast are going to multiply until they use up the available oxygen in the wort and then they'll start anaerobic phase and make alcohol. You want the yeast to take over the wort as soon as possible to prevent infection etc. If you use more than one packet or make a yeast starter ahead of time you're increasing your pitching rate and getting a head start on fermentation as well as potentially putting less stress on the yeast that can cause off flavors. Dry yeast it cheap; why gamble pitch 2.
 
Brian,

No, you were not insulting. I know that there are people who don't understand hops, or unhopped extract. Any advice you provide to newbies is always good.

Crash,
I liked your explanation about why it is good to make a yeast starter.

Thanks to all.
 
I've been making yeast starters from dry yeast with awesome success.

I don't mean to beat a dead horse but I amazed myself by making a starter last April from dry yeast and then re-viving it this spring and using it in my "Wooly Booger" Common Ale recipe.

So far it tastes great (2ndary right now).
 
Yes



Sorry, I wasn't trying to be insulting. True story, I was as the homebrew store and I was waiting at the counter. I struck up a conversation with the customer next to me and said, "so what are you making?" He said, "I don't know, whatever this can here makes. It's my first batch" He had a can of unhoped malt and 4 lbs of sugar. I had to explain to him that he the can was unhoped. I think I embarrassed the guy, but can you imagine if I hadn't said anything? He would have been pretty disappointed about his first batch.
How do you differentiate between unhoped malt and hoped malt? Am I correct to assume those hoped malt would be those product and label for specific beer type commonly found under commercial brands such as Cooper's, Mangrove's Jack, Morgan's etc?
 
How do you differentiate between unhoped malt and hoped malt? Am I correct to assume those hoped malt would be those product and label for specific beer type commonly found under commercial brands such as Cooper's, Mangrove's Jack, Morgan's etc?
The hopped and unhopped malt syrups come in cans such as Coopers, and the label will say either Hopped or Unhopped. Many of us started out that way, either recently or in antiquity. This can says "Hopped Malt Concentrate" along the bottom.
1704624876937.png
 
The hopped and unhopped malt syrups come in cans such as Coopers, and the label will say either Hopped or Unhopped. Many of us started out that way, either recently or in antiquity. This can says "Hopped Malt Concentrate" along the bottom.View attachment 838420
Ah i think my attention is all on the nice looking beer I am gonna get by purchasing the can instead of those words in unattractive color XD. Thank you!
 
I was reading in How to Brew, to use 2 packets of yeast, yet in other places i see just one. If I am using dry yeast packets from my LHBS, how many packets do I need for a 5 gallon batch?

Also, if I am using one standard 3.3 lb can of LME, how many pounds of DME should I be adding to create a full-bodied beer?

Thanks.

- Joe

The body of the beer doesn't depend on whether you use LME or DME. I recommend only using DME as it has a much better stable shelf life. 6 pounds of DME makes about a 4.5% ABV in 5 gallons of water. 9 pounds makes about 7%.

A decent rule of thumb is 1 pack of dry yeast for anything up to 7% ABV and two packs for over. Lager fermentations change all of that but I assume you're looking to make an ale.
 
+1 to whomever suggested getting a recipe kit and working with that. MoreBeer sells complete recipes with LME or DME measured out. Hops included and when to add them and good instructions on how to put it all together. That is where I started and am glad I did. The recipe kits come in many styles of beer so you should be able to find a style you like. I would say my first 6 or so brews were from MoreBeer and were kits with it all measured out. Makes the process easier and you can concentrate on the other parts of the brew like sanitation and fermenting. Good luck and post the results.
 
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