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BareKnuckleBrew

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First and foremost I want to thank everyone that ask and answer questions posted on HBT forums! I have been an un-registered user for about 7 months, seeking and peeking at topics that I have had questions about. I try to refrain from asking questions without researching the answer first. You guys all rock and have helped me numerous times!
So how did my kitchen get to the point that a good friend (non-HBer) asked “why does your kitchen look like something from a cheap science fiction movie?”

I can point 100% of the blame to my wife! The good idea fairy showed up around Christmas (2011), as a MR BEER kit. Great fun, very easy training wheels into homebrewing so to say. I read the directions, cleaned and sanitized, boiled and brewed… and waited like the kid from the movie “The Christmas Story” waited for the secret decoder ring. It was a daily event to come home from work and see what was happening. Somehow I managed to wait the full week and then primed and bottled…and waited some more! I gave it a whole 2 weeks in the bottle before popping one. And to my surprise it DIDN’T kill me; it was pretty good to be honest.

I knew as soon as I started to brew that first all LME kit; that doing a batch like this just wasn’t going to satisfy my itch to brew. Somehow, somewhere, someone put the LME into a can. I had to know how to do it without the can. (not that extract brewing isn’t fun… I just wanted to do more). I stepped up the brewing the following week by picking up a couple of DMEs with specialty grains and a 5 gal starter kit; from the helpful guys at Jay’s Brewing Supplies. Again, great results (New Zealand IPA and Northwest IPA). And, again I found myself wanting to do more of the brewing.

By the second batch I understood the need of a wort cooler. After a little bit of research I find a cool all copper CFC on the web. And since I am not a Trump and again I want to do this from start to finish I come up with a plan and made my first trip to Home Depot. It didn’t take me long to find the copper tubing and all the fittings I was going to need. NEW FLASH: it is a pain in the arse to push 13 ft of copper tubing into a slightly larger diameter 12ft of copper tubing! Now I need to coil this tubing … the first item I find that is about the diameter I want my coils is a heavy glass jar. PLEASE baby Jesus do not let this glass jar bust while I am sculpting this piece of art called my CFC! Somehow I manage to coil the CFC, sweat/solder the fitting and test drove the cooler. MONEY! It works; no leaks… next step, run hot and cold liquid thru to test temp resolute. Again, spot on! It dropped hot liquid from 180 to 75 (gravity fed).


At this point more reading and research takes place. I need a mash tun. I know all those high speed all copper or SS look great at the breweries and brewpubs. I do not have the money or space for those cool guy items. So it is back to Lowe’s/Home Depot. A 10 gal Igloo water cooler and a little bit of hardware makes a super effective and cost efficient mash tun. One weekend at a time I build and collect my brewery!



After a quick calculation of boil size and batch size, I realized my starter pot (as cool as it is) is not going to be able to handle the all grain circus I was planning on releasing. So back to the internet I go. I find an 8 gal kettle. While I’m looking for kettles I see cool ones with bells and whistles (thermometers and ball valves). I gotta have some of that action. Once again I pull out the handy dandy common sense meter and it tells me to MAKE IT YOURSELF. This knocks off an easy hundred bucks from the cost. (more money for beer ingredients!) Same with the DIY stir plate made out of junky old computer parts. (ex-girlfriend’s and/or ex-wives computer parts work best if you can get your hands on them- just saying).


Now, armed with the book Joy of HomeBrewing, the internet and the pure desire to pull off an all grain batch; I was ready to do this. With exactly 3 extract batches under my belt. It was time to dive in head first. I have to be honest my first all grain batch was a blur. I was so excited about the brewing that I kept no notes, no testing just blasted right thru everything. It wasn’t until I was sealing the primary that I realized I didn’t even take an OG reading let alone do an iodine test of the starch. Somehow it all worked out and the beer tasted great. It was a clone of Fat Tire… of course it really didn’t taste JUST like a Fat Tire but it was a Belgian ale.
I have since change the recipe a bit to make it mine and have brewed the Belgian Ale about 10 times. Each time I work on refining the process and duplicating the taste.

My armature HB stats: 16 batches- 14 TKOs, 1 Draw (so-so beer- (raspberry wheat)), 1 defeat (Over carbonated)

So as a new HBer I thank all of you for insight and advice! I have had a blast brewing and learning how to brew better!

RDWHAHB and keep on brewing!
BKB

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I like the look of that carboy with the orange cap! Pretty Snazzy! ;)

What's next? :confused:
 
Thanks guys!

No,:rockin: it did not blow... a little bubble over. I really thought I was going to have a volcano in that closet!

Next --- Keggles?
 
i thought one of the reasons you used a hose for the outer cavity of a CFC was to help keep the cold in? Will using copper as the outer part try and exchange heat with the "outside" as well making it less efficient? Or does it matter on our scale. Just asking since I think the copper looks dang good and I want to make one soon.
 
I'd be really interested in the posts you used to come up with the CFC build that you did if you don't mind sharing.
 
thanks! The CFC was pretty easy to make.. the first was tough because of the learning curve. the second took about an hour start to finish.

Also is my super cool DIY stir plate .. old computer parts, a $6 dollar plastic box and the switchs from radio shack.. maybe 20 bucks total. (and a free sticker (for flare) I stole from my son!)

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@oakasfan.. no post or internet DIY CFC; I saw something simular and went to Home depot with an idea of what I wanted. If you want I can run down the parts and pieces. .. or should i do a DIY post and run thru the whole thing :)
 
I think I followed some of what you did but some specifics would be great! Up to you if you want to put much effort into it..... although it would be much appreciated!
 
Ok for Oakasfan and anyone else out there interested in the copper coil CFC here is a quick write up on how to:

Quick heads up-
a. There is soldering involved. If you have never soldered copper pipe/tube do yourself a favor and do a quick google how to. Here is a easy DIY on soldering> http://www.easy2diy.com/cm/easy/diy_ht_3d_index.asp?page_id=35749917

b. Clean the pipe/tube tips that will be joined with the fittings with emery paper or something similar this will help with soldering.

c. I have this setup for indoor kitchen use. You can add a brass garden hose adapter to the ½” male adapter in place of the hose barb.

Tools used: small pipe cutter or hack saw, propane torch for soldering, silver solder, measuring tape, something round (about 10” dia )and sturdy to coil around (maybe a 5gal keg… try not using a cookie jar)

Parts list: +/- $90.00
20’ - 3/8” copper tubing
20’ - 5/8” copper tubing
2 ea. NIBCO ½” caps
2 ea. NIBCO ½” 90 elbows
2 ea. NIBCO ½” male adapters
3 ea. Brass hose barb (LFA-90)
1 ea. Kitchen Faucet to Garden hose adapter

Putting the part and piece together:
1. Slow down; have a beer
2. Cut six 2” sections of the larger tubing to use for connectors for the fittings.
3. Un-coil and cut 14’ of the larger dia. tubing. It is highly suggested to get the tubing as straight as possible!!
4. Un-coil and cut 16’ of the smaller dia. Tubing; again get this tubing as straight as possible!!!
5. Round (make smooth) the edges of the smaller dia. tubing that will be traveling inside the larger. This will help keep the tubing from creating spurs and binding up while you are trying to push it thru the larger pipe.
6. Feed the smaller tubing into the larger - cuss a little; have a beer- finish pushing the tubing thru. Allow 6-8” to extend past each of the ends.
7. Find a sturdy cylinder to coil around. Secure the starting end (I used duct tape) and wrap the tubing.
8. Build the fittings. Pretty straight forward take a look at the pictures to get the basic configuration (modify as need to accommodate your setup). Drill a 3/8” hole in the ½” NIBCO cap for the inner tubing to project out of.
9. Get ready to sweat the pipes! Make sure you cleaned the pipes/tubing; used the flux. Cross your fingers and hope for great seals.

Clean up and test drive

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i thought one of the reasons you used a hose for the outer cavity of a CFC was to help keep the cold in? Will using copper as the outer part try and exchange heat with the "outside" as well making it less efficient? Or does it matter on our scale. Just asking since I think the copper looks dang good and I want to make one soon.

Bink_ I not an engineer by any means... but I have been led to believe is the surface area of the copper will assist in the cooling process; it will become cool and lower the passing water temp unlike rubber hoses that will act as just an insulator and maintain the same water temp. I’m no pro so I might just be stuck on the shiny wow factor of the copper CFC :mug:
 
Everything looks awesome...except for one small thing.

Is that a CORONA LIGHT?!?!?! :confused:

JK, I love the DIY project - thinking a stir plate is up next for me.
 
AUGH there is a CORONA LIGHT! Ah who am I kidding that is what the misses wanted to drink that day. I'd rather put my soup cooler on a good craft beer; but when the frig is empty; beggers can't be picky.
 
Thanks.... it will be a great help! I will be referring back to this in a few months after I get moved/settled and start brewing. i thought about the typical immersion chiller but for the little extra cost I like this better.

The ends where you have the fittings makes more sense now. I saw the end cap on one of your previous pictures and it confused the hell out of me. Knowing you drilled a hole in it makes complete sense now.

Thanks again... I know it took you some time to do this... and I appreciate the effort.
 
Thanks.... it will be a great help! I will be referring back to this in a few months after I get moved/settled and start brewing. i thought about the typical immersion chiller but for the little extra cost I like this better.

The ends where you have the fittings makes more sense now. I saw the end cap on one of your previous pictures and it confused the hell out of me. Knowing you drilled a hole in it makes complete sense now.

Thanks again... I know it took you some time to do this... and I appreciate the effort.

no problem! if there is anything else I can do to help let me know. I think the next upgrade to the CFC will be a thermometer at the output side.
 
i lol'd at the all grain circus statement haha. thatll be the next beer name
 
Outstanding! :D Very clear and easy to follow if youre not me at work :p
I have a few questions for you.
1; for your copper cfc, I'm not to familiar with them, I've seen more immersion chillers; how does yours work? You have the Big O and little o tubes. Does wort go into o while cold water is in O? :dumb founded:
2; would you post a picture or two of how to make your plate chiller? I've only read about twice of them and I'm very curious on how you did it, I'll have to go back and read my book by John Palmer :p

Good luck on your brewing adventures try not to let your wallet hurt while your circus grows ;)
 
Outstanding! :D Very clear and easy to follow if youre not me at work :p
I have a few questions for you.
1; for your copper cfc, I'm not to familiar with them, I've seen more immersion chillers; how does yours work? You have the Big O and little o tubes. Does wort go into o while cold water is in O? :dumb founded:
2; would you post a picture or two of how to make your plate chiller? I've only read about twice of them and I'm very curious on how you did it, I'll have to go back and read my book by John Palmer :p

Good luck on your brewing adventures try not to let your wallet hurt while your circus grows ;)

Ah I guess I did not point the flow out... I have an adapter for my kitchen faucet that I attach a barbed fitting that carries the cold water via normal run of the mill tubing;to the cold (large tube) input on the CFC. I use high temp thermo tubing for the hot liquid (small tube)input to the CFC. The direction of flow does not matter as long as the cold and hot are input from opposite directions. Hench counter-flow.
Picture attached will show faucet adapter (kitchen faucet to garden hose); garden hose barb adapter; general hose config (cold in; hot in)

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And the light turns on... Thanks lol, I've only seen pictures of a completed one and was curious on how the did their job, now you mentioned it was gravity fed, you have hot wort elevated, and running down, while the faucet pushes water up and out into the sink? If I can try build this I may, or be lazy and buy it :/ lol thanks again, great build
 
Yeah man; currently my setup is gravity fed.

Normal operation I will have the kettle on the countertop; the CFC slightly below the kettle-(w/ a ball valve) and the carboy (or bucket) on the floor. Adjust the flow rate of the wort so the output wort temp is in the ballpark to recieve the yeast.

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So it sounds like the valved brew kettle is necessary for the gravity flow system. Looks like you modified your kettle instead of buying one with a valve. How did you secure the valve to the kettle? Soldering to stainless steel would be pretty sketch. Do you filter the wort prior to the CFC?
 
So it sounds like the valved brew kettle is necessary for the gravity flow system. Looks like you modified your kettle instead of buying one with a valve. How did you secure the valve to the kettle? Soldering to stainless steel would be pretty sketch. Do you filter the wort prior to the CFC?

Used a weldless bulkhead fitting. Very easy to find on the internet.. pic below.

http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/catalogsearch/result/?q=weldless+bulkhead

I use Muslin bags for the hops. Have not needed to filter so far.

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muslin grain bag.jpg
 
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