First batch of Mead as Apple season comes to a close

[blasterooni]

Well, for me at least, apple season has come to a close. All of the trees I know of are picked clean, or there are but a few left well out of reach and not worth busting out the ladder to pick. So this morning, I started my first batch of mead. It was the idea of making mead as my grandmother once did from here own bees back when I was a kid. I have fond memories of the carboy, with an airlock bubbling away in the dining room. I never got to taste it, but my mom, truth be told, says it tasted pretty bad.

I hope to make at drinkable mead at the very least, and while dear grandma Ida's apparently did not come out that well, its a tradition I wish to continue nevertheless. So, I went and purchased about 9 pounds of honey to do a 3 gallon batch, though I added some sugar to bring the gravity up to 1.100. I don't know if this is a bad thing to do or not, but I don't think it will have any appreciably bad effect on the final product, necessarily. My simple recipe for my 3 gallon batch is as follows:

8-9 pounds of honey
19.5 ounces of sugar
3 gallons of spring water
5 grams 71b
OG: just shy of 1.100
pH: too high for my test strips, so I added some malic acid to bring it down (its what I had on hand). I need to check it again tonight to see where it landed. My aim is pH 3.8-4.0

I plan to move the carboy into the fermentation chamber once the cider has finished clearing up. My target temp is 68F

I used Go Ferm to mix with the dry yeast when I rehydrated at a 1:1 ratio, and I added 6.75g of Fermaid K and 3g of DAP to the must. I plan to follow SNA nutrient additions at 1/3 and 2/3 sugar break adding 18.6g fermaid O and 1.1 g DAP at 1/3, and and 18.6g fermaid O at 2/3, no DAP. I will aerate twice daily for 3-5 days and degas as well. The airlock has not bubbled yet (been about 5 hours since I pitched), but I can see the pressure building as the water in the airlock has moved from a balanced state. The first bubble should escape pretty soon I think (it may have already as its been a while since I last checked for activity).

Looking forward to see how this goes,with absolutely no expectations for success. However, if I follow the protocol laid out above, it think I will at least have a drinkable mead at some point within a year or less perhaps! I want to make Grandma Ida proud!

Skal!

 

[Blacksmith1]

It will taste a bit different than a true mead due to the sugar, but I believe it will be fine.

 

[blasterooni]

It will taste a bit different than a true mead due to the sugar, but I believe it will be fine.

Yeah, I figured as much. I made the mistake of not accounting for displacement from the honey since I am used to just using juice so I ended up with a lower OG than I was supposed to, plus i was a little shy on the amount of honey required to hit the target OG (someone used some of the honey i bought for making the mead, no big deal). I am not expecting a great mead, but maybe that whole zen mind/beginners mind comes into play here, and I end up with something "not bad". The airlock is happily bubbling away now. I orignally bought the 71b for cider but decided against using it after a little research, but glad I had it even tho it isn't the 1122.

 

[Seamonkey84]

One issue with adding the acid up front, is that honey has no buffering to it. It could start with a very high ph, but it’ll plummet once fermentation starts. The ph stability and lack of nutrients is why “authentic” recipes will sometimes stall, and need at least a year of aging to be drinkable. though not absolutely necessary, certain recipes or protocols add potassium carbonate/bicarbonate to buffer ph and add potassium for the yeast. Then you can add acid to taste once it’s done fermenting.
Since your doing SNA and degassing, you should still be fine. It should come out tasting better and sooner than what your grandma made.

 

[FunkyMunk]

Mead making is a lot of fun. That's cool you have that link to a family tradition. I was worried about my first few batches but they seemed to be well received by others.

The only thing in your process that I'm questioning is where you got your nutrient amounts. I plugged a batch like yours into the meadmakr.com batch builder (made a few guesses as to volume, etc.) and I got:
Fermaid O: 6.3g
Fermaid K: 7g
DAP: 3.5g
Those are total values, added across staggered points that all occur before or at the 1/3 sugar break. I think if you're trying to figure out your nutrient additions based on YAN (yeast assimilable nitrogen) that Fermaid O somehow is a more efficient source of nitrogen, so you need less of it than you would think. Too much nutrient will cause off flavors.

 

[madscientist451]

Things I would do differently:
Don't add sugar, just use less water to get desired gravity.
Use 1 pack of dry yeast per gallon.
Use fermaid when rehydrating yeast, but don't add yeast nutrient.
Wait 24 hrs after pitching yeast before adding any nutrients.
Use the TONSA 3.0 protocol.
https://www.meadmaderight.com/tosna.html
Skip the malic acid addition.
For a first batch of mead, it looks like you're using pretty good methods.

 

[blasterooni]

Mead making is a lot of fun. That's cool you have that link to a family tradition. I was worried about my first few batches but they seemed to be well received by others.

The only thing in your process that I'm questioning is where you got your nutrient amounts. I plugged a batch like yours into the meadmakr.com batch builder (made a few guesses as to volume, etc.) and I got:
Fermaid O: 6.3g
Fermaid K: 7g
DAP: 3.5g
Those are total values, added across staggered points that all occur before or at the 1/3 sugar break. I think if you're trying to figure out your nutrient additions based on YAN (yeast assimilable nitrogen) that Fermaid O somehow is a more efficient source of nitrogen, so you need less of it than you would think. Too much nutrient will cause off flavors.

I got my nutrient amounts from a recipe I found online that already had the nutrient breakdowns for 3 nutrient additions, the final one at 1/3 break. Its interesting that you add that FermO is more efficient and need less. The guy who created the recipe I found said I needed more; about 3 times the amount of FermK. He also said that along with degassing for the first 3-5 days, one should oxygenate as well. I'm a little suspicious of this step as a cider maker, and I didn't see this mentioned on the batch-buildr instructions. I'll dig around the meadmakr site and see what I come up with.

So, I went to meadmakr.com, and it looks like I missed a couple of steps (tempering the yeast mainly), but I don't think it will result in a bad outcome necessarily. According to batch-buildr, my next addition is 2.85g FermK and 1.5g DAP (I'm using a low nitrogen requirement yeast; 71b but not the 1122). I found the info on aeration/oxidation. Degas and aerate 2x daily until day 7 or 1/3 break, whichever comes first. Thanks for pointing me in the right direction!

I kinda want to do another batch soon; I like all the math involved

 

[blasterooni]

Things I would do differently:
Don't add sugar, just use less water to get desired gravity.
Use 1 pack of dry yeast per gallon.
Use fermaid when rehydrating yeast, but don't add yeast nutrient.
Wait 24 hrs after pitching yeast before adding any nutrients.
Use the TONSA 3.0 protocol.
https://www.meadmaderight.com/tosna.html
Skip the malic acid addition.
For a first batch of mead, it looks like you're using pretty good methods.

I think a second batch is in order soon. Glad I didn't mess up too badly this first shot at it! The problem was I added all the water before I mixed in the honey which screwed up the gravity I was after. So I figured add sugar like one might do with cider. I could have just went out to get more honey I suppose, but I was already in up to my ears, and took the short cut. Next time I won't mess with adding acid to adjust pH, its that I read somewhere that a high pH messed up the fermentation, it may have been bad info

 

[blasterooni]

Since your doing SNA and degassing, you should still be fine. It should come out tasting better and sooner than what your grandma made.

I sure hope so!

 

[blasterooni]

I checked the gravity a little bit ago and the mead is well past the 1/3 mark already on day 4, the SG being just above 1.050. I did not expect it ferment so quickly! I tasted it, and it definitely has a little kick to it. I ran the numbers through the brewers friend ABV calculator and it is sitting just above 6% at this point, the target being about 11%, intending on a semi-sweet mead (is that the correct vernacular for mazers?). At any rate, it appears things are going well (?) Since I messed up in the beginning adding malic acid, should I get some potassium carbonate to adjust the pH if needed, or will I just have to live with it if its somewhat off?

 

[FunkyMunk]

I wouldn't add anything else now, your fermentation is well underway so I think your best bet is to put an airlock on if you haven't already and wait until it's done. Unless it stalls for some reason, it should go all the way dry, then you can stabilize and backsweeten if you want it semi-sweet. Then start the next batch while the first one is aging.

 

[blasterooni]

I wouldn't add anything else now, your fermentation is well underway so I think your best bet is to put an airlock on if you haven't already and wait until it's done. Unless it stalls for some reason, it should go all the way dry, then you can stabilize and backsweeten if you want it semi-sweet. Then start the next batch while the first one is aging.

I read that degassing should continue with the airlock on. Should I do this, or just let it go? I have had an airlock in place since day 1
Next, I'll look into what honey is best for mead; I just used some local stuff (wild flower honey)' but like apples, I assume that honey is the same, some work great while others are likely to be sub-par...

Thanks for the help by the way, I appreciate it

 

[Seamonkey84]

Just give the bucket a swirl, or stir gently with a sanitized long spoon. I degas until it’s about finished, when there’s signs that it’s starting to clear, like there’s a layer of clear mead/wine on top.

 

[Saunassa]

Something I was told and appeared true for me is that after mixing the water and honey together, even if aggressively done you cannot get a true OG reading right away. It takes time for the honey to fully dissolve/integrate with the water. I just mix 6 lbs in two gallons warm water, take my OG measurement but don't sweat it if not quite what I want.

 

[blasterooni]

Just give the bucket a swirl, or stir gently with a sanitized long spoon. I degas until it’s about finished, when there’s signs that it’s starting to clear, like there’s a layer of clear mead/wine on top.

Thanks seamonkey, I made a degasser with a plastic hanger after seeing the plastic degassing wands sold on amazon

 

[A-man]

Next, I'll look into what honey is best for mead; I just used some local stuff (wild flower honey)' but like apples, I assume that honey is the same, some work great while others are likely to be sub-par...

In general, the best honey is raw, unpasteurized. Which is pure honey from the comb filtered but unheated above 90-95 F and never with added sugars like corn syrup.

Beyond that it is a matter of tasting different varietals and matching any added adjuncts you want to use.

 

[Saunassa]

My goal is to find someone with sumac honey, darker and stronger flavored. My bf dad had bees and one of the bee varieties preferred sumac and his homemade mead was dark and powerful

 

[A-man]

My goal is to find someone with sumac honey, darker and stronger flavored. My bf dad had bees and one of the bee varieties preferred sumac and his homemade mead was dark and powerful

Found a tidbit: https://wildflowermeadows.com/2017/06/laurel-sumac/

Given the above, you might try https://www.honeypacifica.com/cold-packed-cases/ for a California Sage, though it doesn't look dark from the pic. As for the company, I can vouch for the high quality of their raw honey though if you are on the east side of the Mississippi river as I am shipping is pricey.

 

[blasterooni]

The batch is coming along quite nicely. Between wednesday and saturday the SG dropped from 1.050 to 1.010, the pH is at 3.6, and tasted great, a little bit of a bitter taste tho (is this normal?). I'm still degassing 2x per day giving the carboy a gentle swirl. And compared to cider it sure has a kick!

 

[blasterooni]

As of Wednesday, the SG was ~0.999, the yeast is dropping quite rapidly and the the mead is beginning to clear on its own. Tonight or tomorrow morning, I plan to either cold crash for a day or two to get more of the yeast in suspension to drop, or simply rack for aging as is. I read recently that one mazer cold crashes in primary prior to racking depending on the yeast used. He specifically mentioned that he cold crashed when using 71b as it evidently autolyzes [rapidly] and can create off flavors, but K1V-1116 apparently doesn't. I used the former. As far as using clearing agents, he recommended using super-kleer, but fining agents such as gelatin and bentonite work too. I went ahead and ordered some super-kleer and will likely use that mostly because I haven't used it before. Each time I tested the SG, I gave the mead a taste, its pretty "hot", and goes straight to the head, definitely still has a nice honey flavor. I imagine it tastes better than grandmas!

 

[Seamonkey84]

I don’t rack until it’s completely clear, saves from wasting product from racking each time.

 

[blasterooni]

I don’t rack until it’s completely clear, saves from wasting product from racking each time.

Do you cold crash at the end of primary? That is to say when it's no longer fermenting? Should I be concerned at all about autolisys? One more question, how clear, read a newspaper through it clear or when you could say, "it's not hazy"?
I suppose there are different levels as to perceived clear-ness, kind of like a sparkle in a diamond

 

[Seamonkey84]

I haven’t bothered to cold crash right after fermentation finishes, I let it settle on it own.
It kind of depends on the yeasts you use. I’ve read that with some, you want to rack once primary is finished and it starts to clear, others can sit on the gross lees for a while without getting off flavors. I use the BOMM protocol with wyeast 1388, I don’t rack off the lees until it’s “newspaper clear”, or when I don’t see a halo around a beam of light shined through it. That first racking usually transfers some lees over too, since I take out as much as I can. Then I’ll sweeten at this point if need be, then let it bulk age and degas for a bit and allow to clear again. Once that’s completely cleared again, I’ll rack once more, degas, and then bottle. Sorbate and sulfite if you want.

 

[FunkyMunk]

I haven’t bothered to cold crash right after fermentation finishes, I let it settle on it own.
It kind of depends on the yeasts you use. I’ve read that with some, you want to rack once primary is finished and it starts to clear, others can sit on the gross lees for a while without getting off flavors. I use the BOMM protocol with wyeast 1388, I don’t rack off the lees until it’s “newspaper clear”, or when I don’t see a halo around a beam of light shined through it. That first racking usually transfers some lees over too, since I take out as much as I can. Then I’ll sweeten at this point if need be, then let it bulk age and degas for a bit and allow to clear again. Once that’s completely cleared again, I’ll rack once more, degas, and then bottle. Sorbate and sulfite if you want.

71b is one yeast that you supposedly want to get off the lees before autolysis sets in, although I'm not sure what the timeframe is. Personally I would rack it once primary had ended and there was a good layer of gross lees. Put it in a carboy or similar with minimal headspace, and save any extra for topping off later. Rack again when it clarifies or when 1/4 inch or more of fine lees form. I like both dry and off-dry meads, so I'll either sulfite and bottle once it's clear, or add sulfite and sorbate, wait a day, then backsweeten a little bit. It usually clouds up again after backsweetening so it helps to wait a bit more to make sure it's not refermenting, and to let it clear. You can always use fining agents or cold-crash to speed up the clarifying, but I usually just stash them away to age for a few months and it eventually happens on its own. I really try hard to keep oxygen away from the mead after that first racking, and sulfites help ward off oxidation too. I haven't tried the BOMM (Bray's one month mead, which uses a Belgian ale yeast) but my experience with wine yeasts in mead has been that they develop a lot over months of aging, usually for the better.

 

[blasterooni]

I haven’t bothered to cold crash right after fermentation finishes, I let it settle on it own.
It kind of depends on the yeasts you use. I’ve read that with some, you want to rack once primary is finished and it starts to clear, others can sit on the gross lees for a while without getting off flavors. I use the BOMM protocol with wyeast 1388, I don’t rack off the lees until it’s “newspaper clear”, or when I don’t see a halo around a beam of light shined through it. That first racking usually transfers some lees over too, since I take out as much as I can. Then I’ll sweeten at this point if need be, then let it bulk age and degas for a bit and allow to clear again. Once that’s completely cleared again, I’ll rack once more, degas, and then bottle. Sorbate and sulfite if you want.

Thank you Seamonkey, that's some fine info there my friend. I keep seeing this strain of yeast, 1388, on various boards, and I'm interested in trying it out. This batch is done with 71b which allegedly is not good for sur lie aging. However, it's probably way too early to worry about off flavors from autolisys; it's been but a few days since airlock activity came to a halt. I'll check the SG tomorrow

 

[blasterooni]

I used super-kleer to clear the mead, and had a glass to give it a taste. It was a little hot, and much stronger than cider; looking forward to how it will taste after aging. I plan to bottle it this weekend.

I started buying more honey. I would love to make a five gallon batch next, but damn honey is expensive! Definitely not as cheap as making cider (I'm going to have to hide the bottles of mead from the wifey otherwise it will be finished off before it's aged for awhile )

 

[FunkyMunk]

Your turnaround has been a lot quicker than is typical, at least for something that's not a BOMM. It will definitely improve with some age. If you're that impatient to drink it, you should get started on another batch ASAP, but I would recommend hiding a few bottles (if not the whole batch) for a few months at least, and see how much better it could be. As for handling the cost of honey, I primarily use Kirkland brand from Costco which seems pretty good for the price, as I'm still learning the ropes of mead-making. I occasionally splurge on varietals that I come across for 1 gallon batches. Eventually I'd like to start buying buckets once I'm confident that I won't ruin a 5+ gallon batch.

 

[blasterooni]

Your turnaround has been a lot quicker than is typical, at least for something that's not a BOMM. It will definitely improve with some age. If you're that impatient to drink it, you should get started on another batch ASAP, but I would recommend hiding a few bottles (if not the whole batch) for a few months at least, and see how much better it could be. As for handling the cost of honey, I primarily use Kirkland brand from Costco which seems pretty good for the price, as I'm still learning the ropes of mead-making. I occasionally splurge on varietals that I come across for 1 gallon batches. Eventually I'd like to start buying buckets once I'm confident that I won't ruin a 5+ gallon batch.

I think the TA is due to the nutrient schedule (?), beginners luck? Anyhow, I am going to hide the whole batch, except whatever doesn't fit in the last 750. I have plenty of cider around to keep everyone happy, so I don't think anyone will start looking around
I found some honey for $5/pound last night, so I bought 6 pounds (I already have three pounds of some expensive stuff), so I may start a batch this weekend. This time I'm going to use 71b-1122. How much is the Costco stuff?