First AG Batch, Short of Targeted OG (Advice Wanted)

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DerekS

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Decided to try my hand at an AG batch yesterday, and as expected many surprises along the way. Spent a lot of time on reading, research, and planning leading up to the big day, but alas that only gets you so far.

I'll try to keep my thoughts in order and elaborate as best as I can while referring to my notes. I'm just looking for as many tips and suggestions as I can get out of this learning tool from all you experienced AGers.

Quick background information: I used Brewers Friend for all of my calculations when it came to water temps/amounts (and I live at sea level). I built my MLT out of a 52 qt. igloo cooler w/ SS braided hose. Used floating thermometer in MLT and needle thermometer in HLT.

With a grain bill of 10.25 lbs. (90% 2 row, 10% C75) sitting at a temp of 61 F, first infusion 30 minutes at 122 F; I heated 12.8 quarts of water to a strike temp of 132 F. I stirred in and temp measured high at 130 F so I added 5 cubes and left the lid open and it took a while to settle at 124 F. First infusion was almost done at that point so I just left it alone.

Next infusion required me to raise the mash to 151 F for 90 minutes. BF calc told me to add 7.1 qt. of boiling water. Mixed it in and took a temp and read 144 F at first. Had more hot water in tea kettle so added a bunch of it and took another temp still reading low. Kept adding more boiling water and finally just settled with the 148 F reading that I was getting. At this point I had no idea how much more water had been added but I was supposed to be at about 1.95 qt per pound but mash was a lot thinner than that.

Opening my plastic inline valve just a little bit seamed to infuse air into the line, so I just opened it all the way and vorlauf was clear after a qt. First wort running's collected quickly and ended up with 4.25 gallons. Wanted 7.75 preboil, so for the sparge I added in what I was missing: 3.5 gals. at 170 F. Took a temp reading and to my surprise it read 144 F. At this point I was over it. I let it sit for 15 minutes and collected the rest. Preboil refract reading 9 brix (1.036).

After hot break I timed for a 90 minute boil. Once cooled I had 5.5 gallons at 11.5 brix (1.046). So brew house efficiency calculated at 67%. Was shooting for an OG of 1.050 at estimated 70% eff

Final thoughts:
Thermometer problems? Are floating thermometers really slow to show actual temps? Strike temps off? I calibrated my needle thermometer using my starter alcohol based thermometer but later checked them against each other again and the needle thermometer was well off. Too much water in the mash? Also, I feel like my cooler would just dissipate heat and didn't want to get above 148 no matter what I did.

If you made it all the way through this post, thank you for taking the time to read it and for all your help!
 
You sound like you know what to do, don't fret and practice! I have the same thermometer problems, and now have a hospital grade thermo that reacts quickly when I need to confirm the floating thermometer temp.

You do things similar to the way i try to do, but keep a few things in mind. I do 10 mins at around 122, then step to the 130's for 10, and then to 140s for 10 while raising to 150-155. I let things sit in the 150-155 range for maybe 20-30 mins, but then raise to 160 for 10 mins to make sure everything is converted. The 90 mins @ 150 is a good idea when you are not stepping. But doing the steps gets those enzymes active and your conversion takes less time. (I do most mashes on a stove top in a SS pot, so I can add temp when im short)

I have a spinner for sparging, so I would guess that your sparge is different. Its tough to get things exact, so make adjustments. If you are falling short on gravity add a bit more grain.

Practice is the only way to get out the kinks and fix problems. Get your method down and adjust when you are very comfortable with your system.
 
67% brewhouse is pretty good for a first go. hell, I've been all grain for nearly 5 years and I'm still right around 67%-75% most brews.

it sounds like your biggest problem (not suprisingly) was with hitting your temps. this is tricky for sure. I've had good luck with the beersmith calculators as long as you properly account for equipment and grain temp.

I generally aim for whatever the software tells me + ~3-4 degrees, close the tun and let it pre-heat then add the grain and stir really well. then I move the thermo around as I'm taking the read to get a feel for any hot/cold spots and maybe give another stir.

I don't usually bother with the protein rest. It's not generally required given modern malt and could potentially negatively impact your head retention and body as it degrades protein so I am for a ~155 (most of the time for 'normal' gravity medium body beers) or ~148 (for high gravity beers and beers I want to attenuate particularly well) or ~162 (for session beers with low gravity that I want to leave a lot of body in)
If I miss by 2-4 degrees I don't worry too much, if I miss by 5-7 degrees I'll add more water. worst case scenerio is I end up doing a no sparge and just take the 3-5% efficiency hit.
 
Thanks guys. I guess I had just expected it to go better and thought 70% efficiency was modest from what I had been seeing around here. I guess I just needed some encouraging words, so I appreciate it. I definitely think that I will also be throwing out that dial thermometer too.

On a good note, fermentation is going really great and got started quickly with my first ever yeast starter. So it should still turn out to be beer!
 
I'm not totally convinced that super high efficiency is something to aim for even. you want very nearly 100% conversion efficiency but brewhouse efficiency is a different story. It's just not worth to me to chase 90% efficiency.
 
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