Fermonster for primary

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jeph00

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Hello everyone.
I’m making the switch from glass to plastic fermentors after an accident with one. Anyone using these with the tap for primary and then into keg after 2 weeks? Pros and cons?
 

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Some swear by the tap, but I prefer the lid-mod with floating diptube for closed-transfers:
IMG_1411.jpg

I'm using mine right now to sanitize a keg with enough Star San to overfill it for purging.
 
Some swear by the tap, but I prefer the lid-mod with floating diptube for closed-transfers:
View attachment 822163
I'm using mine right now to sanitize a keg with enough Star San to overfill it for purging.
What are the details on the "T" fitting you have on the lid?

My Fermonster lids don't seem to seal very well. Have you done anything to get a good seal - fatter "O" ring, or whatever?

Brew on :mug:
 
What are the details on the "T" fitting you have on the lid?

My Fermonster lids don't seem to seal very well. Have you done anything to get a good seal - fatter "O" ring, or whatever?

Brew on :mug:
I've been using the original o-rings so far, but the one I've been using with star san a lot more has been getting harder to seat..I think it's stretched a bit and I'll have to swap it out soon...they're cheap enough though I'll use the standard replacements that my LHBS carries with their Fermonster stuff...when they're new they seem to fit and seal just fine, as long as I get them ALL the way into the groove...I usually have to do it twice because it looks good the first time, but after I tighten the lid down a bit and take it back off to check, it comes off..so..lay it out again and press.press.press.press,press etc..and I'll see that it's sunk further in than the first time. It ususally does require me to do it at least twice. :p
The 'Ferm-head' is a my rip-off of Norcal's Cross-Fermenter Sanke Keg Cross Fermenter Kit. NorCal Brewing Solutions
.. I wanted to have as universal as possible; one accessory that fits all my fermenters and adds the floating diptube, near unrestricted blow-off (For my more explosive fermentations), and pressure/closed transfers.
SHFC on Aliexpress had a really good price on these bulkheads one day, so I bought 4 pairs; https://www.aliexpress.com/item/330...f6816865295951764289e14c8!66911411582!rec!CA!
And did this:
IMG_1407sm.jpeg

IMG_1408sm.jpeg
 
I've been using the original o-rings so far, but the one I've been using with star san a lot more has been getting harder to seat..I think it's stretched a bit and I'll have to swap it out soon...they're cheap enough though I'll use the standard replacements that my LHBS carries with their Fermonster stuff...when they're new they seem to fit and seal just fine, as long as I get them ALL the way into the groove...I usually have to do it twice because it looks good the first time, but after I tighten the lid down a bit and take it back off to check, it comes off..so..lay it out again and press.press.press.press,press etc..and I'll see that it's sunk further in than the first time. It ususally does require me to do it at least twice. :p
The 'Ferm-head' is a my rip-off of Norcal's Cross-Fermenter Sanke Keg Cross Fermenter Kit. NorCal Brewing Solutions
.. I wanted to have as universal as possible; one accessory that fits all my fermenters and adds the floating diptube, near unrestricted blow-off (For my more explosive fermentations), and pressure/closed transfers.
SHFC on Aliexpress had a really good price on these bulkheads one day, so I bought 4 pairs; https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33000791881.html?spm=a2g0o.detail.1000060.1.723d84b1pk1uMI&gps-id=pcDetailBottomMoreThisSeller&scm=1007.13339.291025.0&scm_id=1007.13339.291025.0&scm-url=1007.13339.291025.0&pvid=07626381-15fb-45eb-976f-b123c66b2562&_t=gps-id:pcDetailBottomMoreThisSeller,scm-url:1007.13339.291025.0,pvid:07626381-15fb-45eb-976f-b123c66b2562,tpp_buckets:668#2846#8110#1995&pdp_npi=3@dis!CAD!13.46!12.12!!!!!@2101ef6816865295951764289e14c8!66911411582!rec!CA!
And did this:
View attachment 822208
View attachment 822209
Thanks.

Brew on :mug:
 
Thanks.

Brew on :mug:
Oh! I forgot to mention one of the most important reasons I did it that way: Before I even bought my first Fermonster, I read about them extensively on here, and I wanted to avoid the Cracked-Lid issue so, with the tee, when I am attaching or detaching a connecter with one hand, my other hand is holding the tee so I don't put any pressure on the lid.
 
I've been using the original o-rings so far, but the one I've been using with star san a lot more has been getting harder to seat..I think it's stretched a bit and I'll have to swap it out soon...they're cheap enough though I'll use the standard replacements that my LHBS carries with their Fermonster stuff...when they're new they seem to fit and seal just fine, as long as I get them ALL the way into the groove...I usually have to do it twice because it looks good the first time, but after I tighten the lid down a bit and take it back off to check, it comes off..so..lay it out again and press.press.press.press,press etc..and I'll see that it's sunk further in than the first time. It ususally does require me to do it at least twice. :p
The 'Ferm-head' is a my rip-off of Norcal's Cross-Fermenter Sanke Keg Cross Fermenter Kit. NorCal Brewing Solutions
.. I wanted to have as universal as possible; one accessory that fits all my fermenters and adds the floating diptube, near unrestricted blow-off (For my more explosive fermentations), and pressure/closed transfers.
SHFC on Aliexpress had a really good price on these bulkheads one day, so I bought 4 pairs; https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33000791881.html?spm=a2g0o.detail.1000060.1.723d84b1pk1uMI&gps-id=pcDetailBottomMoreThisSeller&scm=1007.13339.291025.0&scm_id=1007.13339.291025.0&scm-url=1007.13339.291025.0&pvid=07626381-15fb-45eb-976f-b123c66b2562&_t=gps-id:pcDetailBottomMoreThisSeller,scm-url:1007.13339.291025.0,pvid:07626381-15fb-45eb-976f-b123c66b2562,tpp_buckets:668#2846#8110#1995&pdp_npi=3@dis!CAD!13.46!12.12!!!!!@2101ef6816865295951764289e14c8!66911411582!rec!CA!
And did this:
View attachment 822208
View attachment 822209
Nice! I did one lid using Dgallo's method, but have trouble getting a good seal with the ball locks to the lid. How does yours attach to the lid. Id that a TC connector? What kind of gasket?
 
It's just a short coupler out the bottom of the tee through the lid, with a SS washer against the tee on top of a flat silicone washer on top the lid, and a grooved locknut with o-ring on the inside..in that order, it can simply be hand-tightened.
IMG_1502.jpeg

:mug:
 
I’m making the switch from glass to plastic fermentors after an accident with one. Anyone using these with the tap for primary and then into keg after 2 weeks? Pros and cons?
I am a huge fan of the Fermonster fermenters with a spigot. I have a pair of 3-gallon, a 7-gallon and a 1-gallon. For me, transferring out of the spigot using gravity makes a lot more sense than spending money on CO2 to push beer out the top. There are a ton of pros that I see. For the price, Fermonsters are a very flexible fermenter. Cons? If you are into pressure fermenting, I would look else where. While I have been using my oldest Fermonster for around 4 years, I don't expect them to have the lifespan of stainless steel fermenters (but I do like the info I get from being about to see through the fermenter). I did have one of my lids crack. The smaller ones are rather thin and flexible, but the 7-gallon is reasonably thick and sturdy.
 
Got them filled and fermenting. I’m not seeing any bubbles in the airlocks, should I be concerned?
You might want to check that you don't have a leak. Sometimes the lids can be tricky to get seated just right (and getting off an overtighten lid can be a challenge). With that much krausen, I would expect to see bubbles in the airlock.
 
It looks OK in the picture, given that some ferments are slow-and-low.. If it's the same brew you've previously made in a glass carboy, you should be seeing the same level of activity.
As to the lids; I always take a cotton swab with keg lube to the threads before putting the lid on.(After making sure the o-ring is actually seated and not faking it :p ). If you don't have one yet, it'd probably be worth your while to get the lid-wrench and buy an extra lid o-ring at it because probabilty suggests that sooner or later, you'll take the lid off and have the o-ring fall into your beer. (Which is OK, don't risk contamination trying to retrieve it, just pop on a spare if you have one and still need it.)
https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/fermonster-gasket.htmhttps://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/fermonster-wrench.htm:thumbsup:
 
(but I do like the info I get from being about to see through the fermenter).
I bought one (the 3 gallon size, with spigot) about 6 weeks ago. At first I was excited about it, cuz I'd finally be able to see the ferment happening, but then as soon as I'd transferred the wort into it, realized that "well now I have to keep it covered all the time so that light doesn't damage the beer". I wouldn't buy another one.
 
I bought one (the 3 gallon size, with spigot) about 6 weeks ago. At first I was excited about it, cuz I'd finally be able to see the ferment happening, but then as soon as I'd transferred the wort into it, realized that "well now I have to keep it covered all the time so that light doesn't damage the beer". I wouldn't buy another one.
UV light is the issue..as long as you keep it from sunlight and flourescent-bulbs you're good to go. Incandescant and LED's are fine, otherwise just throw a cloth over it or keep it in a dark place and peek occasionally. ;)
 
@Broken Crow
It's more that I'm pretty tight with a dollar! Plus, it's hard to beat the value of a $7 food-grade bucket from the hardware store: comes with a nice handle, easy to carry, doesn't flex, keeps light out, and has a nice flat top to set a frozen jug of water on top of.

Also, didn't know that about incandescent and LED bulbs, so thanks!
 
If I leave it and try to improve the seal for next batch, will this beer be spoiled?
 
If I leave it and try to improve the seal for next batch, will this beer be spoiled?
If CO2 is getting out somewhere other than the airlock, then air will get in once fermentation is finished. So while your beer won't be spoiled, it might get a bit oxidized. How much of an issue that is will depend on the style, and to some extent on when you package and how.
 
If CO2 is getting out somewhere other than the airlock, then air will get in once fermentation is finished. So while your beer won't be spoiled, it might get a bit oxidized. How much of an issue that is will depend on the style, and to some extent on when you package and how.
There's a great deal of pressure pushing that CO2 out. I would think that when fermentation is done, and the internal and external pressure are at equilibrium, there would be miniscule O2 coming in. Probably negligible compared to the O2 he'll get transferring.
 
There's a great deal of pressure pushing that CO2 out.
Not after fermentation starts to slow down.
I would think that when fermentation is done, and the internal and external pressure are at equilibrium, there would be miniscule O2 coming in.
When the internal and external pressures are at equilibrium, the internal and external gas concentrations will also start to equalize. The container is either airtight or it isn't. How much of an issue this is will depend on how long the beer is left in the FV.
Probably negligible compared to the O2 he'll get transferring.
Not if the idea was to do a closed transfer.
 
Not after fermentation starts to slow down.

When the internal and external pressures are at equilibrium, the internal and external gas concentrations will also start to equalize. The container is either airtight or it isn't. How much of an issue this is will depend on how long the beer is left in the FV.

Not if the idea was to do a closed transfer.
Granted, the gasses will still want to mix. However, with a lid on tight and a bung and airlock inserted, I still believe it would be insignificant in the average time between fermentation completion and transfer. I certainly may be wrong, but that's my take on it.
As for the transfer, I doubt it would be closed, considering it's a fermonster with a bung & airlock, but maybe there's a way. Unlikely, though, in my opinion.
 
However, with a lid on tight and a bung and airlock inserted, I still believe it would be insignificant in the average time between fermentation completion and transfer. I certainly may be wrong, but that's my take on it.
But the problem is that we already know that the lid is not on tight.
As for the transfer, I doubt it would be closed, considering it's a fermonster with a bung & airlock, but maybe there's a way. Unlikely, though, in my opinion.
A way is shown in the second post in this thread. Another way is to use the spigot and return gas from a purged keg back to the fermenter.
 
If I leave it and try to improve the seal for next batch, will this beer be spoiled?
Make sure the rubber stopper is really well inserted. I've seen the molded opening of the lid be just slightly out of round so if you don't push it in hard enough to make up for it there can be two slivers of non-contact. Push down and turn.

Is it possible you forgot to insert the oring into the lid groove?
 
My Fermonster lids don't seem to seal very well. Have you done anything to get a good seal - fatter "O" ring, or whatever?

I'm a little late to the party, but ...

I was unhappy with the seal provided by the fermonster o-ring as well. At the same time, I tried the mesh strainer for dry-hopping and found that the strainer's top - which sits on the rim of fermonster's mouth - acted like a rubber gasket and gave me a better seal. I bought an extra one, snipped off the mesh and use it when I'm not dry hopping.

https://www.morebeer.com/products/m...MI4puDhvfV_wIVsBGzAB1Dfg2uEAQYASABEgJU1PD_BwE
 
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