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Ksub123

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I have been thinking about starting to mill my own grain. If I buy in bulk its a little cheaper than buying by the pound, its supposed to make a better beer, and it saves me driving almost an hour each way to the nearest lhbs. So what do I need to know?

Has anyone bought a 2 roller and regretted not getting 3?

If you buy 55lb bags, how do you store your malts? Is there a cheap alternative?

Have you tried conditioning the grains?

Basically I'm looking for any experience you can share.
 
Many people are happy with the Cereal Killer two roller mill. Reviews on the Barley Crusher two roller mill are mixed - issuses are mostly related to knurling wear, and other component wear.

Brew on :mug:
 
I have a Hullwrecker 2 roller and have been very happy. Easy to adjust for rye or smaller sized grains. Works well with old corded drill.

I store grain in 5 gallon pails, they hold about 23 pounds each. You can by 2 part lids that have a snap on ring with threads for the top that make a good seal to keep grain fresh. 2 buckets will hold a 55lb sack of grain, minus the first batch of malt. Store coil and dry. I keep in a basement that is 60-65 deg year round And grains are fine 3-4 months. Much beyond you start to notice some loss in quality. I’ve used grain as old as 12 months but could certainly tell the difference.

No experience with conditioning or 3 roller mills.
 
I have been thinking about starting to mill my own grain. ...

Do it. You won't regret it.

If you buy 55lb bags, how do you store your malts? Is there a cheap alternative?

I store mine in an old refrigerator that's in my shop. The fridge is not even plugged in, I just use it as a bug & mouse proof storage cabinet.

Have you tried conditioning the grains?

Nope. That's a technique that can help if you have problems draining from a mash tun. With BIAB I've never had a need to consider conditioning.

I'm looking for any experience you can share.

I use a Kegco 3 roller, and it has never given me a single problem in over 3 years of use. But there is no real need to use a 3 roller. The Cereal Killer already mentioned is hard to beat in terms of value per dollar.
 
Have a 3-roller and have been happy with it. I used to use a corded drill (it would get pretty hot at the end of milling) to mill but converted to a dedicated motor/gearbox which proved to be a great investment.
 
i have a 2 roller that ive used for years. works great. even now when i brew a 15gal batch it does just fine crushing 20 to 50 lbs of grain on brewday. having the ability to set your mill where it needs to be is a great thing to have for efficiency. i am far from my lhbs also and store grains in sealed bins in a room with a dehumidifier. probably a good idea to get yourself a set of feeler gauges at the same time so you can make sure the gap is correct. have fun milling at home!
cheers
 
I was looking at the Vitle vault a while ago. It seemed like a good option but there's always a diy version that I like to look into before buying something.

I'm a little disappointed that grain only lasts 3months. I can't say I'm surprised but I would probably only use 30lb in that time.

What about weighing grain? Do people use bathroom scales or specific brewing ones?
 
[...]I'm a little disappointed that grain only lasts 3months. [...]

Unmilled barley malt is most likely 6 months to a year old or more before it even makes it into the retail chain, so the notion it loses its character in 3 months of your possession is nonsensical.

What about weighing grain? Do people use bathroom scales or specific brewing ones?

fwiw, I use this for grain and weighing kegs while filling them.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00739RFHM
Also, wrt your mill question, I used a Barley Crusher for a long time running at least 3 thousand pounds through it before the rollers lost their grip.
I bought a Cereal Killer last year and it's a far better mill for 2/3rd the price.

For storage, I keep bulk grain in their original bags in a dry space, and specialty/adjuncts in plastic bags stuffed in a 50g rolling trash bin.

I do condition my hulled malts as I have my mill set tighter than when not conditioning, and reap the improved lautering and yield...

Cheers!
 
I cant speak for the roller mills since I use a corona mill for biab.

If you buy 55lb bags, how do you store your malts? Is there a cheap alternative?

I roll the opened part of the original bag and either clip it shut, or use the bags weight to keep it shut. I keep it in a pretty simple rubbermaid type container with handles to easily haul around the basement. The container fits a 55lb bag, plus a smaller 10lb bag total. Or at least I manage to wedge them in there. Its not an airtight solution, but I have yet to find any bugs or dampness inside of it. My other, smaller 1 lb bags live in some plastic drawers that I stole from my wife's art room.

I'm a little disappointed that grain only lasts 3months. I can't say I'm surprised but I would probably only use 30lb in that time.
Probably stored, it should last much, much longer. I've been brewing on a 55lb bag of rahr 2-row since March without any problems. That bag won't get used up completely until the end of this year.

What about weighing grain? Do people use bathroom scales or specific brewing ones?
I'm sure one of the bigger volume brewers has a better idea for that, but I use a postage/kitchen type digital scale. Most of my grain bills max out around 8.5lbs of grain, so I just weight it out in single pounds and combine it into my hopper.
 
Thanks for your comment day_trippr. That scale looks quite good and a fraction the price of the anvil one I contemplated.
I guess grain shelf life is very dependant on how long it takes to get to you and the storage conditions through all phases of that journey. And unfortunately my basement is not so great so I will need a good container.
 
What about weighing grain? Do people use bathroom scales or specific brewing ones?

I've been happy with this one. It's extremely similar to the one day_trippr posted, but a bit less expesive.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KYA0RC2/

As for a vittles vault alternative, look for a gamma lid, which is the same screw top air tight seal as the vittles vault, but for a bucket. Watch for the right price on these though, they tended to bounce from $7 up to $15 back when I was looking. If you're patient, you may get a deal. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0089QJQTS/
 
HBT member @grampamark could likely provide some insight into such things as how long barley sits in silos before the "last in last out" paradigm causes your bag to drop out on the way to a malt house - which has its own input grain storage, you can bet, so again your grain rides down until it hits the malting machines or floor.

Then the malt house will bag and warehouse your malted grain, where it'll sit until there's a wholesale buyer/distributor. Then there's transport to the distributor, waiting for a retailer order. More shipping, then finally it reaches your retailer, where unless you're buying full bags may also sit in a pipeline...

Cheers!
 
HBT member @grampamark could likely provide some insight into such things as how long barley sits in silos before the "last in last out" paradigm causes your bag to drop out on the way to a malt house - which has its own input grain storage, you can bet, so again your grain rides down until it hits the malting machines or floor.

Then the malt house will bag and warehouse your malted grain, where it'll sit until there's a wholesale buyer/distributor. Then there's transport to the distributor, waiting for a retailer order. More shipping, then finally it reaches your retailer, where unless you're buying full bags may also sit in a pipeline...

Cheers!
When you put it like that i don't think I need to even think about it.
 
Ok, one more thing I just thought of. I remember reading that you should adjust your mill for darker roast malts. Do you do this and how easy is adjusting?
 
Still have my Corrona, what I used in the '80's and for first few batches post modern, went to a barley crusher two roller and there was increased efficacy. After about 70 brews with about 20#s grist, including adjuncts like rye malt, the rollers on the BC mill got worn down, and while one could still crush grain, did not always go smoothly or quickly.

Now using a MM 3 roller mill. The first one I got had an out of round roller, but sent it back and it was replaced, have been quite happy with performance with a variety of grains.

I'd advise getting a three roller mill unless the extra $50 is a budget breaker. However, most occasional brewers small batch will probably be happy with a two roller for quite some time.
 
Ok, one more thing I just thought of. I remember reading that you should adjust your mill for darker roast malts. Do you do this and how easy is adjusting?
I'm not aware of any advantage of milling darker roasts differently.

But I always adjust my mill's gap for different size kernels.
Barley gets milled at 0.034". Wheat and Rye at 0.026" since the kernels are much smaller. Oat malt need an even tighter gap (~0.020") to get it crushed at all. So yeah, I usually reset my mill's gap once each mill session to mill the alternate kernel size. Occasionally twice. And leave it there for the next time. I put some grease in the set screws threads to reduce wear on the aluminum frame.

Most 2 roller mills are easy to adjust. Some 3-roller mills can be a real chore to adjust, from what I've read, as they need to be totally dismantled. But I got the impression that 3-roller mills seem to handle the difference between Barley and smaller Wheat kernels better, and may not need adjusting. If you BIAB, "very fine" is the only setting you need for all your grist. ;)

I've been using a Monster Mill MM2 and a ~$50 Heavy Duty Low Speed drill from Harbor Freight for 7 years.

Mounted-Monster-Mill-MM2_500.jpg
 
Thanks for your comment day_trippr. That scale looks quite good and a fraction the price of the anvil one I contemplated.
I guess grain shelf life is very dependant on how long it takes to get to you and the storage conditions through all phases of that journey. And unfortunately my basement is not so great so I will need a good container.
HBT member @grampamark could likely provide some insight into such things as how long barley sits in silos before the "last in last out" paradigm causes your bag to drop out on the way to a malt house - which has its own input grain storage, you can bet, so again your grain rides down until it hits the malting machines or floor.

Then the malt house will bag and warehouse your malted grain, where it'll sit until there's a wholesale buyer/distributor. Then there's transport to the distributor, waiting for a retailer order. More shipping, then finally it reaches your retailer, where unless you're buying full bags may also sit in a pipeline...

Cheers!
Yeah. I’m a grain farmer. The “fresh” malt that you pick up at the LHBS, or the Brown Truck leaves on your porch, might be as much as 2 years from harvest.

Malting barley is what is known as a “specialty crop”. That means that it isn’t corn, wheat, rice, or soybeans. Almost all of the malt barley grown in North America is grown in 5 states and 2 Canadian provinces, all of which are contiguous. Barley production, compared to corn or soy, is a rounding error, and most of it is grown in a fairly small geographic area.

The macros contract for the bulk of the production, and with their increased use of corn and/or rice, the amount of barley they buy is decreasing. Some of the independent maltsters contract with growers in their areas directly, and that production is delivered to the malting facility fairly soon after harvest. Some of it might go straight to the plant from the field. Much of the barley produced isn’t contracted. This is known as “open market” production. IOW, the grower plants barley in the spring and then shops around for the best deal after harvest. That grain might sit in storage on the farm for up to a year before it even enters the transportation/distribution chain. And, during that time, the grain is stored in facilities which are designed to promote airflow through the grain. It ain’t hermetically sealed at any point in the process. Once the grain moves into the system, the inventory control is, as @day_trippr noted, “Last in, last out”.

Bottom line-keep your grains cool, dry, and free of bugs and rodents. It ain’t going bad in a matter of weeks or months. Unless you live near a malt plant, in an agricultural area, your “fresh” malt might be older than dirt.
 
From Briess
http://blog.brewingwithbriess.com/about/This article make a good distinction between base malt (6mo) and roasted malts (18mo). It also stresses the humidity control as the biggest factor. I’d be hard pressed to buy a sack of malt that was more than 2-3 months old (from malting, not harvest) and always try to use it within another 3-4 months. I don’t stress much if the last batch goes 6 or 8 months, but I expect to loose some flavor and would most likely brew a darker beer to cover it up. Just my preference as I have never done a side by side taste test of beer with old vs new malt, but that would be interesting.
 
So your saying the only way I can get fresh malt is to grow my own barley and malt it myself? Thats actually great, think of all the money I'm going to save!😂😂😂😂


🤔...
I'll do it!
 
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I first bought the Barley Crusher but after several years it wouldn't pull the grain through - the rollers were getting worn. I sent it in to be fixed (lifetime warranty) but it hasn't worked very well since getting it back. I wouldn't buy another one. I'm using a JSP mill I picked up before. I used the drill method to power both but switched over to a gear motor and that works much better than the drill. Both are two rollers and they crush just fine. I've thought about buy a new mill but so far the JSP is working fine.

I buy full bags of base grains and when I open them I pour the rest into five gallon pails with those Gamma Seal covers. They seal real tight to the plastic pails and the cover screws on. Both the snap on ring and cover are gasketed so you get a tight seal. One bag almost fills two buckets. The buckets stack real well too so storage isn't so bad. I still have ten or so buckets filled with various amounts at all times. For the smaller amounts of specialty grains I'll buy 10 pounds to get a good discount then seal the unused portion in a plastic bag then put a few bags into the sealed buckets. Make sure you label everything when you store this way. I've got one bucket filled with Mystery Grain.
 
If I buy in bulk its a little cheaper than buying by the pound, its supposed to make a better beer, and it saves me driving almost an hour each way to the nearest lhbs.
All grain can make beer that is closer to the right color because the process of making extract will darken it making your finished beer darker than expected. All grain gives you more options but there is no guarantee that you will make better beer because of going all grain.
 
Hi, i'm piggybacking in this thread, how long can you store milled grain? I was going to brew a batch on Friday, I milled the grains but I have to postpone for a week...thanks!
 
My norm is ordering at least 2 batches at a time, milled. I brew every 2-4 weeks. So sometimes up to a month. I did a Kama Citra NB kit that was 2 months old. If it’s bagged and sealed tight I don’t see much harm going a few weeks as I’ve gone 2 months before.

Now a mill is on deck for purchasing.
 
Hi, i'm piggybacking in this thread, how long can you store milled grain? I was going to brew a batch on Friday, I milled the grains but I have to postpone for a week...thanks!
Don't leave it in an (open) bucket, although for a week it would probably be just fine.
Just stick it in a bag. Ziplock freezer bags are probably better for longer storage.

For storing unmilled grain (specialty, crystal, roast, etc.) I'm using heavy duty Ziplock type freezer bags, with all the air squeezed out. They're stacked in totes. I may stick those freezer bags now inside 5# barrier bags for extra protection from air. I've been saving them from 10# boxes of oatmeal. ;)
 
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