English PA

[rtwdonald]

I am just looking for any comments on a English Pale Ale recipe I’m thinking of brewing. I’m new to making my own recipes, but I’m looking to make a sessional beer. I want to use golding hops as I am going to be growing them this summer.


Basic Information
Batch Name: Golding PA
Brewed By:
Style: American Pale Ale
Batch Size: 23.00 L
Boil Time: 45 min
Initial Boil Volume: 15.0 L
Mash Method: Extract
Brew Date: 1/27/18
My Rating: 0/10

Typical Style Characteristics
Style: American Pale Ale
O.G. 1.045 - 1.060
F.G. 1.010 - 1.015
ABV 4.5 - 6.2
IBU 30 - 50
SRM 5 - 10°L
Color

Calculated & Measured Statistics
Calculated O.G. 1.041 (72% Efficiency)
Calculated F.G. 1.011 (72% Yeast Attenuation)
Measured O.G. 0.000 (0% Actual Efficiency)
Measured F.G. 0.000 (0% Actual Attenuation)
ABV 3.9%
IBU 40.7
SRM 7.1°L
Color

Malt Bill
Malt Name Weight PPG SRM Type
Light Dry Extract 2.00 kg 1.044 8.00 Extract/Adjunct
2-Row Malt - 1.75°L 1.00 lbs 1.038 1.80 Steeped Grain
Caramel/Crystal Malt - 20L 1.00 lbs 1.035 20.00 Steeped Grain
Wheat, Flaked 1.00 lbs 1.035 2.00 Steeped Grain

Mash Rest Profile
Rest Temperature Time Type Details

Hop Bill
Hop Name Time Added Weight AA% Type
Goldings (U.S.) 45 min 1.50 oz 5.0% Pellet Hop
Goldings (U.S.) 15 min 1.50 oz 5.0% Pellet Hop
Goldings (U.S.) 0 min 1.00 oz 5.0% Pellet Hop

Yeast Details
Yeast Strain Quantity Attenuation Flocculation
Safale US-05 Fermentis Dry Ale 1 72 Low– Medium

Dates
1/27/18 Brew Date

Notes

Exported from Fermenticus Brew Log v2.6, 2/24/18


Sent from my iPhone

 

[RM-MN]

I have a couple suggestions that might not make much difference in your beer so you can just ignore them if you want plus a small (ok, nit-picking) correction.

1. Your flaked wheat needs to be mashed or all you will get from it is a starch haze that is permanent in your beer. That's ok that you have it because you have the 2-row to provide the enzymes to convert the starches to sugars and the flaked wheat is known to improve the heading on the beer.
2. You might be better served if you did your first hop addition at 60 minutes and the second at 5. Just my opinion.

Now for the correction. You have pale malt, a base malt. That needs to be mashed, not steeped. So does the wheat and the caramel malt may give you just a little more sugar if mashed. It's a bit of nit picking but steeping can be done in a wide range of temperature and you still get the flavor and color from the grain. Mashing has to be done within a smaller range of temperature, between about 148 and 158F. Too low and the alpha amylase doesn't break the starch into the dextrines. Too high and the beta amylase enzyme gets destroyed and it is the enzyme that breaks down the dextrines to fermentable sugars.

https://missionarybrewer.wordpress....ers-window-what-temperature-should-i-mash-at/

 

[rtwdonald]

I have a couple suggestions that might not make much difference in your beer so you can just ignore them if you want plus a small (ok, nit-picking) correction.

1. Your flaked wheat needs to be mashed or all you will get from it is a starch haze that is permanent in your beer. That's ok that you have it because you have the 2-row to provide the enzymes to convert the starches to sugars and the flaked wheat is known to improve the heading on the beer.
2. You might be better served if you did your first hop addition at 60 minutes and the second at 5. Just my opinion.

Now for the correction. You have pale malt, a base malt. That needs to be mashed, not steeped. So does the wheat and the caramel malt may give you just a little more sugar if mashed. It's a bit of nit picking but steeping can be done in a wide range of temperature and you still get the flavor and color from the grain. Mashing has to be done within a smaller range of temperature, between about 148 and 158F. Too low and the alpha amylase doesn't break the starch into the dextrines. Too high and the beta amylase enzyme gets destroyed and it is the enzyme that breaks down the dextrines to fermentable sugars.

https://missionarybrewer.wordpress....ers-window-what-temperature-should-i-mash-at/

Thank you for the feedback. I have adjusted the hop addition times, and might attempt my first partial mash with this one.

 

[RM-MN]

Thank you for the feedback. I have adjusted the hop addition times, and might attempt my first partial mash with this one.

Not attempt, just do. It's way more simple than you think. Next step after that is all grain (if you want). It isn't any amount more difficult than a partial mash. If you have a few ounces of Munich malt left over, try heating a cup of water to the range I mentioned and put in a couple ounces of the Munich malt (well crushed), wait 15 minutes, then taste the water (carefully, it will still be hot). If the water tastes sweet, you succeeded in mashing.

 

[Northern_Brewer]

English Pale Ale recipe...I want to use golding hops as I am going to be growing them this summer..

Typical Style Characteristics
Style: American Pale Ale...

ABV 3.9%
IBU 40.7...

Goldings (U.S.) 45 min 1.50 oz 5.0% Pellet Hop
Goldings (U.S.) 15 min 1.50 oz 5.0% Pellet Hop
Goldings (U.S.) 0 min 1.00 oz 5.0% Pellet Hop...

Safale US-05 Fermentis Dry Ale 1 72 Low– Medium

I'm a bit confused - you talk about homegrown hops, but then use pellets - is this a dry run for a green/wet hop beer later in the year? Thinking ahead to a green/wet hop beer - there's no benefit to using them for bittering, they really shine as late/dry hops. So even for this one, I'd chuck in an ounce of dry hops. I love Goldings, but you might want to put a little bit (say 30%) of Bramling Cross or Bullion in there.

You might want to change your target style?

Personally I'd bump up the fermentables a wee bit, aim for 4.2% or so, more of a best bitter strength.

A BU:GU ratio of ~100% is on the high side - 70-90% is more typical for British bitters. My personal taste is in the 85-90% range. Are you doing anything with water chemistry? Some gypsum will usually be a good idea.

I'd knock the crystal and wheat down a bit, to mebbe 16-20oz for the two, US recipes tend to overdo the crystal. Instead you want a more characterful yeast - US-05 is too clean. Us a proper British yeast like WLP002/Wyeast1968, or something like Danstar Nottingham.

 

[thehaze]

Fermenting wort with a classic, CLEAN American ale yeast will not yield an English IPA, as the yeast is not English. US-05 is far too clean for any english style and lacks the (proper) esters.

But it will make a beer. Probably a Golden ale or something. I would add more hops and probably dry hop ( mildly ).

 

[parrothead64]

I’m assuming the two row is American. If so, substitute marris otter and use an English crystal. Also, just want second that English yeast is mandatory if you want to make an English beer. It looks like you have your software set to American pale. Change it to English pale. Your ABV and IBU’s are in the range of an ESB, which is my favorite English beer. I would drop the 15 min hop addition.