American Wheat Yeast Preference...

[Rob2010SS]

Looking for a yeast to brew an American Wheat. I was hoping to use WY1010 but my LHBS doesn't carry that. They have...

S-05
WB-06 <-- I read this can give off the banana clove, and I don't want any of that so maybe this is a no right off the bat...
WY1056
OYL-044 Kolsch

Any thoughts on what would be best and why?

 

[Franktalk]

I would go to the 05 for the "American" aspect of an American wheat beer. Certainly you could go with the Koslch, but then, you'd have a...kolsch...I guess. I wouldn't touch the WB 06 unless you were going for a "Belgian" wheat or a triple. Lalbrew Wit will produce a wheat beer that is pretty neutral, so I guess you could try that?

 

[Steveruch]

Do they carry K-97? Or W1007?

 

[NTexBrewer]

I use K-97 for my American Wheat. Turns out great

 

[Rob2010SS]

Do they carry K-97? Or W1007?

They may have that. I think I remember seeing it but it’s not on their website. The Wy1007 I don’t think they have.
Does the K 97 produce a pretty neutral beer?

 

[Rob2010SS]

I use K-97 for my American Wheat. Turns out great

Does the k97 give off any banana or clove or is it pretty neutral?

 

[Franktalk]

I forgot about k97. It is a very neutral yeast, like a lager yeast. I've never used it in a wheat beer, though, so I can't say whether or not it'll throw any banana.

 

[beersk]

They may have that. I think I remember seeing it but it’s not on their website. The Wy1007 I don’t think they have.
Does the K 97 produce a pretty neutral beer?

K-97 is supposed to be the dry form of wy1007 although I don't think it really is... 1007 is also what I'd suggest, but based on what you can get 1056 would do the trick just fine...or US-05.

 

[Rob2010SS]

I looked into K-97. It is a pretty aggressive attenuator and I don't think I want it quite that aggressive.
Same with US-05.
They don't have WY1007 at the moment.
They don't have WY1056 or WY1272.

In talking with the guy at my LHBS, he made a couple of recommendations for lower attenuators..

WY1187
WY1469
WY1099
WY1335

WY1335 British Ale - I'm actually leaning towards this. It says a classic british profile that finishes crisp and clean. In a wheat, will the "british" character be obvious? I can't say that I know what the british profile would be like in this...

My other pick would be WY1099. Sounds like it'd be fairly clean.

 

[day_trippr]

fwiw, I always use 1056 on my wheats, just because it is so neutral when run at a decent pitch rate and in the middle of its temperature wheel house. There isn't that much character in the typical wheat beer to overcome noisy yeast

Cheers!

 

[Rob2010SS]

fwiw, I always use 1056 on my wheats, just because it is so neutral when run at a decent pitch rate and in the middle of its temperature wheel house. There isn't that much character in the typical wheat beer to overcome noisy yeast

Cheers!

So do you think 1335 will be too noisy? I just don’t have a ton of experience with British yeast.
I was going to use 1056 but they don’t have it actually

 

[day_trippr]

Haven't enjoyed brewing with 1335, but from Wyeast's site I expect it to run closer to 1318 wrt esters - good ones mind you, I love 1318 - then the typical Chico derivative strains like 1056, US-05, et al - and finish just a bit sweeter. Which actually could make for a very nice beer, come to think about it.

I'm in need of something new-ish/different-ish. A wheat using something like BA2 or LA3 might be about right.
Hmmm....

Cheers!

 

[Rob2010SS]

Haven't enjoyed brewing with 1335, but from Wyeast's site I expect it to run closer to 1318 wrt esters - good ones mind you, I love 1318 - then the typical Chico derivative strains like 1056, US-05, et al - and finish just a bit sweeter. Which actually could make for a very nice beer, come to think about it.

I'm in need of something new-ish/different-ish. A wheat using something like BA2 or LA3 might be about right.
Hmmm....

Cheers!

The fact you didn’t shoot it down thinking it would be horrible gives me a vote of confidence! Lol

 

[day_trippr]

Seriously, you may have inspired an epiphany. Wheats can occasionally use a bit of spark. Let us know how it turns out!

Cheers!

 

[Rob2010SS]

Will do. Picking up ingredients today, Brewing next weekend.

 

[bwible]

I’m a Wyeast guy.

yeah 1010 or 1007 or 1056 would have been first round picks.

I haven’t liked 1335 for the bitters I’ve brewed with it. It’s too clean for me. Might be a good choice for what you want. I’m using 1099 to make my pseudo-lagers, cleans up very well in cold storage and that still makes a good bitter or pale ale if you want to re-pitch it. Might not be a bad choice either.

The other 2, Ringwood and West Yorkshire, are going to have a whole lot more character than either of those first 2.

1728 Scottish Ale is a low attenuator too that is pretty versatile.

 

[couchsending]

I’d ask you what your goal is with this beer... 1056/001/05 would be the correct yeast for this. Mash higher if you don’t want the attenuation. The high amount of wheat should/could help with body anyways.

I’d use a Kolsch strain over anything British. The Omega Kolsch yeast is the same as wlp029. A very clean almost non Kolsch like yeast.

WB06 is a diastaticus strong Belgian yeast. The fact that they market it for wheat beers is kind of a joke.

Oberon is one of the most successful beers of this “style”. Their yeast is pretty darn close to 001/1056/05.

Tip: For better haze stability lower the pH at the start of the boil to 5.0ish. Also a rest at 162 for 20-30 minutes will help with foam and making sure you convert all the wheat. Helps with haze stability as well.

 

[Rob2010SS]

I’d ask you what your goal is with this beer... 1056/001/05 would be the correct yeast for this. Mash higher if you don’t want the attenuation. The high amount of wheat should/could help with body anyways.

I’d use a Kolsch strain over anything British. The Omega Kolsch yeast is the same as wlp029. A very clean almost non Kolsch like yeast.

WB06 is a diastaticus strong Belgian yeast. The fact that they market it for wheat beers is kind of a joke.

Oberon is one of the most successful beers of this “style”. Their yeast is pretty darn close to 001/1056/05.

Tip: For better haze stability lower the pH at the start of the boil to 5.0ish. Also a rest at 162 for 20-30 minutes will help with foam and making sure you convert all the wheat. Helps with haze stability as well.

Ultimately my goal with this beer is to just have a clean wheat beer base so that I can add lemonade flavoring to. When I look at the yeasts like 05 or k-97 they attenuate too much and bring the FG down to lower limits of the style, according to Brewers friend anyway. And while I know that the BJCP guidelines are just that, guidelines, I tend to really look at those statistics and try and follow them as much as possible And when it comes to FG, I try and shoot for the middle. I did a wheat beer a while back that finished at 1.007 and while I think there were other factors at play, that beer ultimately seemed too thin for my tastes.

I do agree that the first choice for this beer would’ve been 1056 for me. While I know it’s the same as 05, it attenuates a bit less than 05. Unfortunately my local shop doesn’t have that so I was trying to find a substitute that has similar attenuation while also have a fairly clean profile. I like my beers to have a bit of residual sweetness so 1335 seemed like a solid choice.

 

[Rob2010SS]

I’d ask you what your goal is with this beer... 1056/001/05 would be the correct yeast for this. Mash higher if you don’t want the attenuation. The high amount of wheat should/could help with body anyways.

I’d use a Kolsch strain over anything British. The Omega Kolsch yeast is the same as wlp029. A very clean almost non Kolsch like yeast.

WB06 is a diastaticus strong Belgian yeast. The fact that they market it for wheat beers is kind of a joke.

Oberon is one of the most successful beers of this “style”. Their yeast is pretty darn close to 001/1056/05.

Tip: For better haze stability lower the pH at the start of the boil to 5.0ish. Also a rest at 162 for 20-30 minutes will help with foam and making sure you convert all the wheat. Helps with haze stability as well.

Thanks for the tip on boil ph and the extra rest at 162. Step mashes aren’t quick on my system so Maybe 40 min into the mash I’ll raise temp to 162 and let it sit there for 20 min.

 

[Rob2010SS]

I’m a Wyeast guy.

yeah 1010 or 1007 or 1056 would have been first round picks.

I haven’t liked 1335 for the bitters I’ve brewed with it. It’s too clean for me. Might be a good choice for what you want. I’m using 1099 to make my pseudo-lagers, cleans up very well in cold storage and that still makes a good bitter or pale ale if you want to re-pitch it. Might not be a bad choice either.

The other 2, Ringwood and West Yorkshire, are going to have a whole lot more character than either of those first 2.

1728 Scottish Ale is a low attenuator too that is pretty versatile.

1335 being too clean just helped me think that it’s still a decent choice for what I’m looking for. Like I said, want a clean wheat. Can have a bit of fruitiness but nothing crazy from the yeast

 

[Franktalk]

1335 being too clean just helped me think that it’s still a decent choice for what I’m looking for. Like I said, want a clean wheat. Can have a bit of fruitiness but nothing crazy from the yeast

I think you'll be happy with 1335. I would say that it has all the things you are looking for. It is fairly neutral, doesn't attenuate too much, and leaves a good mouthfeel. Hales Ales, which is the west coast origin of it makes some awesome beers including great wheat beers. It may be the one for your beer.

 

[Nate R]

I think if your end goal is a shandy style mix in the keg (as i think it is, from reading your other thread) i would bet the yeast choice will make a far less impact than if you were drinking it straight.
My $0.02 is go with a yeast you know and have used and like. That way you know the fermemtation profile (temps, times, etc.) already and will know your final product.

 

[Rob2010SS]

I think if your end goal is a shandy style mix in the keg (as i think it is, from reading your other thread) i would bet the yeast choice will make a far less impact than if you were drinking it straight.
My $0.02 is go with a yeast you know and have used and like. That way you know the fermemtation profile (temps, times, etc.) already and will know your final product.

We changed our plan sometime last week.. No longer diluting it in the keg. Instead, we're keeping it straight and adding some flavoring to it in the keg to get the "shandy" feel.

 

[odie]

I used WB06 for a wheat once...as I "recall" it was not the result I wanted...but I don't do a lot of hefes so I'm still looking. I only used it because it was a Fermentis yeast and assumed it would be good.

 

[Rob2010SS]

I used WB06 for a wheat once...as I "recall" it was not the result I wanted...but I don't do a lot of hefes so I'm still looking. I only used it because it was a Fermentis yeast and assumed it would be good.

Yeah, I read a lot on WB06 and found that it was not what I was looking for. Definitely wasn't looking for a hefe this time around.

 

[odie]

I wanted the hefe but didn't think WB06 delivered...but could just be my recipe or ferm temps or anything...

 

[couchsending]

I wanted the hefe but didn't think WB06 delivered...but could just be my recipe or ferm temps or anything...

it’s not a Hefe yeast... wasn’t anything you did