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Old 04-29-2006, 01:57 AM   #1
Ivan Lendl
 
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I plan on buying a cooler type mash/lauter/hlt set up and have a few questions.

1. I heard rubbermaid coolers will warp from the heat of the mash/strike water, and that gott coolers dont. Is this a problem?
2. Should i buy the 5, 7, or 10 gallon cooler (im definitlety leaning towards the ten gallon for the mash tun, but thinking a 5 gallon would suffice for the hlt?)
3. Do these coolers really hold the temps for 60-90 minutes? I like to stir my mash every 20 minutes, and since i mash in my kettle heat loss due to stirring is not a problem. Can i just shake the cooler up instead, or just stir and add hot water?
4. Lastley, how do you do a mash out? just by adding boiling water?

thanks in advance!

p.s. i currently use my kettle as a mash tun and a zap-pap lauter which works fine, but has its problems (namely keeping constant temps)
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Old 04-29-2006, 02:09 AM   #2
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I'd make sure to buy the 5 day coolers, and definitley go 10 gallon on both, if you can. You'll need it.

Try to get the igloo extreme or the "maxcold" by I think coleman. They hold heat great.

I have the 5 gallon igloo extreme coolers and I lose less than 1 degree in 90 minutes of mashing. I just wish they made a 10 gallon size.
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Old 04-29-2006, 02:16 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dude
I'd make sure to buy the 5 day coolers, and definitley go 10 gallon on both, if you can. You'll need it.

Try to get the igloo extreme or the "maxcold" by I think coleman. They hold heat great.

I have the 5 gallon igloo extreme coolers and I lose less than 1 degree in 90 minutes of mashing. I just wish they made a 10 gallon size.
are these easy to convert though? id really like to just buy the ones that already have a ball valve, and false botom installed, (like from midwest, or northern brewer)or is that just plain lazy?

Most sites ive visited just sell the rubbermaids...
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Old 04-29-2006, 03:14 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bjorn Borg
are these easy to convert though? id really like to just buy the ones that already have a ball valve, and false botom installed, (like from midwest, or northern brewer)or is that just plain lazy?

Most sites ive visited just sell the rubbermaids...
I think you'd be better off doing that anyway. After all the trips I made to Lowes to figure out the ball valve assemblies for that, I could have bought the whole shebang and been happy.

I know Swami has the rubbermaid system, and it does really well. Hopefully he chimes in here.
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Old 04-29-2006, 03:27 AM   #5
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Here's the one I use: http://www.homebrewadventures.com/sh..._Code=SYS.MS.C

Woks like a champ, and they hold temp extremely well. The valves are cheesey, but they'll be easy enough to upgrade whenever I finally decide to. They'r ein NC, so shipping to you should be pretty cheap and quick, too.
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Old 04-29-2006, 03:39 AM   #6

The Rubbermaids will definitely warp. I just did my last mash in mine tonight. I converted it last July ('05)

I just bought an Igloo MaxCold and will convert it this week. I may keep my Rubbermaid to use as an HLT holder.

 
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Old 04-29-2006, 03:50 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rhoobarb
The Rubbermaids will definitely warp. I just did my last mash in mine tonight. I converted it last July ('05)

I just bought an Igloo MaxCold and will convert it this week. I may keep my Rubbermaid to use as an HLT holder.
Was yours the same as the ones in my link above? I started using mine a little before you did yours, and they're fine. My strike water generally goes into the HLT at about 190F.
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Old 04-29-2006, 03:59 AM   #8
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I have a 10 gallon Igloo cooler for my mash/Lauter tun and it has a little warpage in it. My hot liquor tank is a 5 gallon Rubbermaid and it is seriously warped. Much hotter water (180 degrees) gets put into it. It's probably not unusual for a "cooler" that is designed to keep things cold to warp when near boiling water is poured in.
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Old 04-29-2006, 04:31 AM   #9
Ivan Lendl
 
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cool...thanks for the nc link. Why such high temps both on the sparge water (180) and the strike temp (190) ?

i figure if i put 170 h20 in the hlt, 168-170 will come out?
and i strike 10-15 degrees above mash temp, usually 145 for a 130 protein rest...which gets me around about 133.
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Old 04-29-2006, 04:41 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bjorn Borg
cool...thanks for the nc link. Why such high temps both on the sparge water (180) and the strike temp (190) ?

i figure if i put 170 h20 in the hlt, 168-170 will come out?
and i strike 10-15 degrees above mash temp, usually 145 for a 130 protein rest...which gets me around about 133.
In my 5 gal igloo, I strike 13° higher. I needed 185-190° in my HLT (same cooler) for it to stay around 170 for sparging.
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