Switching to All-Grain

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Rypcord

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Ok, I'm switching to all-grain.

What all (equipment wise) do I need exactly?


I'm looking for a total list.

Carboy x2
Mash Tun x1

Etc.

Assume I'm brand new and starting out and have ZERO home brew equipment (I can always cross off what I *DO* have).


Thank you.
 
Assume I'm brand new and starting out and have ZERO home brew equipment (I can always cross off what I *DO* have).

If you get 20 replies you're gonna get 20 different lists!

I'm notoriously parsimonious, so my all-grain brewery consists of

digital food scale
thermometer
two stock pots
two tea pots
a big collander
big pyrex bowl
a fine food strainer
1 wooden spoon
hydrometer
kitchen sink
home depot bucket/lid
airlock

:rockin:

You might think I'm making that up, but I'm not. And to second Rayi above, sometimes for convenience I mix in the BIAB, for which I buy big paint strainer bags from Homers.

I guess my point is, read up on all-grain, and do what works for you!
 
If you get 20 replies you're gonna get 20 different lists!

You need to look at different ways to do all grain brewing and decide what route you want to take.

There is BIAB, 2 vessel, 3 vessel, batch sparge, fly sparge etc. etc. etc.

Look at equipment kits online and decide what you need. I started (extract) with Northern Brewer's Deluxe Starter Kit. It included more 5 years ago than it does now. For instance it does not have a hydrometer any more.
http://www.northernbrewer.com/deluxe-brewing-starter-kit

I got it with Better Bottles rather than glass carboys. It was initially because of the weight of the glass. Since I am glad I don't have glass. It is too dangerous.

Read up, watch all grain brewing videos and figure out what YOU need, not what someone else thinks you need.
 
Here's my equipment set up but this is going to change depending on your batch size. My rig does 5.5 gallons into the ferment and I can get very high OG with it (smaller tuns can hold less water and grains so consider that)

50 Qt cooler mash tun w/ associated fittings (for my rectangular cooler, Coupler, quarter turn ball valve, T joint, 2x barbs, Stainless steel mesh from a sink supply line cut into 2 sections)
2x 8 gallon 2 weld pots with lids, ball valves and 2 inch dial thermometers (1 for boil, 1 for sparge water, get 2 the same so you can just grab the closest one)
25' immersion chiller (optional, tons of other options like no chill/ice bath/CFC/Plate)
LARGE double mesh strainer
2x fermenters (I use bottling buckets, makes it easier to keg)
Propane burner and tank (again batch size dependent)
that's your basics
I also have a wireless BBQ thermometer I put in my mash tun and an addition clip on thermometer like this for my boil kettle to use during cooling (in case the chiller contacts the built in thermo probe OR in case my strike/sparge water doesn't come up to the built in thermo probe)

can probably get away with a stock pot for sparge water, don't need ball valves and thermos built in but it makes life so much easier.
 
What are your objectives? Absolute minimum? What volume?

I believe this is my full setup for 2.5G BIAB:

Brewing:
Kettle - 16 qt stainless stock pot - $12 Walmart
Nylon bag - $5 hardware store
Digital thermometer - $10
Digital scale - $10
Large stainless mesh collander - $7
Refractometer - $20 ebay

Fermenting:
3x 1 Gal jug $15
3x #6 bung $3
3x airlock $6
3x blowoff tubing $2 (strongly recommended)

Bottling:
Food grade bucket with 1” hole drilled
Spigot $5
Bottling wand $3
Mini-auto siphon $8
Siphon tubing $2
Wing bottler $10
Bag of caps $5
 
my goal is 5 gallon.

again.....

you need to look at different ways to do all grain brewing and decide what route you want to take.

There is biab, 2 vessel, 3 vessel, batch sparge, fly sparge etc. Etc. Etc.

Look at equipment kits online and decide what you need. I started (extract) with northern brewer's deluxe starter kit. It included more 5 years ago than it does now. For instance it does not have a hydrometer any more.
http://www.northernbrewer.com/deluxe-brewing-starter-kit

i got it with better bottles rather than glass carboys. It was initially because of the weight of the glass. Since i am glad i don't have glass. It is too dangerous.

Read up, watch all grain brewing videos and figure out what you need, not what someone else thinks you need.
 
Been looking up stuff on the BIAB, looks like a simpler/easier solution (and less costly too).

What mainly attracts me to all grain vs. extract is the ability to make my own recipes and have more of a fine tune control over things.
 
So basics for non-BIAB:

Mash/lauter tun -- Starting out people normally use a cooler with a false bottom/bazooka tube, or manifold. ( I use a homemade manifold and a square cooler at the moment). Making them your self is about $80-100

Hot Liquor Tun (HLT) - Something. Typically a second kettle that will be your boil kettle too. I have an 8 gallon kettle

Something else to heat water while sparging/mashing. I use a 5 gallon Stainless el-cheapo for this. Never touches wort or mash.

From there its what ever you used before. After mashing and sparging the process is the same as before!
 
Did a quick search for kits for All grain, and they all seem 400+ -- is that typical (I've checked out Northernbrewer's, homebrewer's, and Morebeer's), so 400$+ is the typical price-dump to start all grain?
 
Did a quick search for kits for All grain, and they all seem 400+ -- is that typical (I've checked out Northernbrewer's, homebrewer's, and Morebeer's), so 400$+ is the typical price-dump to start all grain?

$250 or so if you buy coolers.
 
All-grain can certainly get as expensive as you want it to be. The mashtun and HLT are a big chuck of costs, but there are a lot of little things too - fittings, hoses, etc that sneak up on you.

If you are looking to save some coin, BIAB is a good intro to all grain. If you're handy, DIY is also a good way to save some cash as well - build you're own mash tun & HLT, etc.
 
Did a quick search for kits for All grain, and they all seem 400+ -- is that typical (I've checked out Northernbrewer's, homebrewer's, and Morebeer's), so 400$+ is the typical price-dump to start all grain?

I think you could do my 2.5G system above for close to $100.

You could expand it to a 5G BIAB system for under $200. The big expense would be a large enough kettle and you would probably need a burner setup. If money is a concern, BIAB is the way to go.
 
I'll Echo kh54s10's sentiments and add the following of my own:

You aren't going to be able to actually brew AG until you have a really good understanding of it. I think many people say "OK, I'm going to go AG, what equipment will I need?" and that's their first thought. Their second thought is, "How will I go about this." I say, answer the second question first. Learn, study, and understand the processes and the options, and what equipment you need will start to fall into place. More so, what equipment you want will start to be revealed to you. For instance, one thing you need is something to help you lauter at the bottom of your tun. What should you buy? Well, I like false bottoms. Other guys like bazooka screens and some like manifolds. What do you think YOU will like?

In terms of BIAB, it works and guys like it. It is; however, quite different from typical AG. Explore both and see what you want to do.
 
In terms of BIAB, it works and guys like it. It is; however, quite different from AG. Explore both and see what you want to do.

This is a semantic difference, but BIAB is AG to the extent that you do not use any extracts. It is "all grain". It is just a different all grain method from traditional all grain using a separate mash tun. You still mash and sparge, you just use different (less) equipment.

I agree, you should do some research, decide specifically what is important to you (budget, space, indoor/outdoor etc). Then come back and get recommendations.
 
This is a semantic difference, but BIAB is AG to the extent that you do not use any extracts. It is "all grain". It is just a different all grain method from traditional all grain using a separate mash tun. You still mash and sparge, you just use different (less) equipment.

I agree, you should do some research, decide specifically what is important to you (budget, space, indoor/outdoor etc). Then come back and get recommendations.

I've added the word "Typical" to make my sentence more semantically accurate.
 
Just some food for thought, if I had to start over I would consider going BIAB to start and investing money in a grain mill instead of a mash tun. Controlling the crush cures a lot of headaches in the beginning and allows you to better isolate flaws in the process.
 
Just some food for thought, if I had to start over I would consider going BIAB to start and investing money in a grain mill instead of a mash tun. Controlling the crush cures a lot of headaches in the beginning and allows you to better isolate flaws in the process.


+1 on this. I went all the way to an automated three vessel system and back to eBIAB. It was a good experience but I would recommend BIAB in the end. I proved to myself how complex I was willing to get. Once I satisfied that urge, I pulled in the reigns to see how much I could simplify it while still making great AG beer. Been very happy with eBIAB for several years now.
 
I started brewing kits in a pony keg I converted then went to a 20 gallon stainless pot I bought off eBay for $85. A good buddy got me into all grain so I picked up a couple 10 gallon Rubbermaid coolers, a monster mill, and a few other things. After doing that for a year I decided to go my own direction after a lot of reading on here. I decided I wanted to go electric and at the same time I went to BIAB. I can do a lot of 10 gallon batches with my pot right now except for really high gravity beers. I really like the simplicity of BIAB and there's less equipment to clean. Also, I can brew an hour or more faster than my neighbor who is using a 3 tier system. We both brewed last Sunday and I was finished first. We both hit all our numbers spot on. Both will be good beers. Just depends on what you want.
 
I started with a cooler kit from northern brewer (gift from my wife):
I had 2 keggles
20 gallon mash tun (went bigger for Pliny the Younger receipe)
2 chugger pumps
3 afterburners
1 Banjo Burner
1 10 gallon ss brewtech kettle
Therminator
quick Disc. from bargain fittings
lots of trips to the local beer store for tubing, clamps, et al

I did three extract kits then jumped to all grain because nobody died (that I know of)
 
you could start with the Herms system and go with a Kal clone, but you'll need at least 3K and a 8' area to brew in. but the most useful tool is the grain crusher, its a must, plus a good postal scale for measuring grain, then a good jewelery scale for measuring hops, then a good ph meter and a good water filtering system for making better beer, and last, lots of buckets, at least 6 for various things
 
What is eBIAB vs. BIAB?

eBIAB is electric Brew In A Bag vs. traditional Brew In A Bag. Traditional is done on a kitchen stove or burner (propane or natural gas). electric typically uses a 220 V in kettle heat element. eBIAB is great if you want to brew indoors, year round but it can get really expensive, traditional BIAB is a great way to get into all grain w/ minimal investment (because you don't need separate HLT, MT, BK. Your BK can be all 3 if you do full volume no sparge). This is a gross over simplification as with any brewing system there are tiers of equipment based on how much you want to spend but that's a quick and dirty.
 
Since it seems you're still pulling in suggestions, I'm going to suggest this trajectory...

Get your kettle (and I would suggest going 15-16 gal instead of 10 gal...opens up your options) and do 1 or 2 batches BIAB. If you decide you want to take it further, buy a cooler and build your mash tun. Having started w/ BIAB, you won't have bought anything (except maybe the bag) that won't be used in a multi-vessel system.

Or you may decide you want to stick with BIAB.

The point is, by going this route you can stop fussing and get started right away and then plot where you want to go from there.

I think you're making the right move by jumping straight into AG. I wish I had. It's not too much more complicated than extract and (with BIAB at least) not at all more complicated than partial mash.
 
Ok, I'm switching to all-grain.

What all (equipment wise) do I need exactly?


I'm looking for a total list.

Carboy x2
Mash Tun x1

Etc.

Assume I'm brand new and starting out and have ZERO home brew equipment (I can always cross off what I *DO* have).


Thank you.

It depends on what kind of beers and what size batches you want to make.
BIAB is the most minimalist approach and can work easily on your stove (or burner). Make sure you don't scorch the bag at the bottom, and make sure your kettle is large enough to brew the size batches you want.
If you want to brew more than 5G batches, or even 5G of big beers, keep in mind that the grain bill can be 15lbs or so, and wet grains would almost double that (at 0.125 gallons of water per lb of grain adsorption), so you are dealing with 30lb of grain right there.

The beer I am brewing now is a saison with 26 lb of grain (10 Gallon batch), so that means pulling out 50 lb sack of wet grains - no way to do it in BIAB.

If you decide to go mashtun route, I don't think you need multiple containers (as in mashtun and lauter tun) - maybe another smaller kettle for boiling sparge water while you are filling your kettle with 1st runnings, but you can sparge with room temperature water just fine. I just use a single mashtun - converted cooler (72 quart) which cost me about $60-$70 or so with all parts included. Many of those BIAB bags cost $16-25, and I often use a cooler as an actual cooler for picnics etc.

Basically you can mash in a cooler, drain it, and boil in your kettle.

Secondary advantage of dedicated cooler mashtun is that I can mash overnight (or leave the mashtun unattended for hours). This allows flexibility on brewday. I mashed in last night, and boiling wort now - splitting my brew day into two parts - saves a little bit of time.

Another thing you may need to figure out now is how will you chill your wort. Unlike extract, with all-grain you usually don't dilute your wort with cold water or ice (you can in theory for some session beers - but you won't be able to reach reasonable gravity values for most beers).
And especially if you are dealing with 5G or more of boiling wort, cooling it down takes some time. I like immersion chiller solution personally (combination of low maintenance, effectiveness and relatively low cost), but there are chiller plates, cold water baths and even no-chill approach.

So I would say you need, let's say for 5G batches:

8-10G kettle (bigger for BIAB because of grain volume)
10G+ mashtun or a BIAB bag
propane burner (unless your kitchen burner is super powerful)
maybe immersion chiller

What you already should have:
a good thermometer
a hydrometer/refractometer or both
good scale for measuring hops, grains
grain mill unless you buy pre-crushed or can crush it at the store
several fermenters (I would say at least 2, depending on how often you brew)+airlocks, stoppers etc.
a few 5G buckets (for water, starsan, cleaning etc)
starsan/other sanitizing option
temp control for fermentation
wine thief
auto-siphon + some tubing

What is nice but not absolutely necessary:
pH meter (I think pH strips are useless)
a pump (makes transfers/cooling easier)
oxygen stone for aerating (better than shaking your carboy)
storage systems for grains (gamma lid buckets) and hops (vacuum sealer, freezer) if you want to buy in bulk
salts (gypsum, CaCl) and a scale that can measure small additions to 0.1g, if you want to play with water chemistry
 
Just some food for thought, if I had to start over I would consider going BIAB to start and investing money in a grain mill instead of a mash tun. Controlling the crush cures a lot of headaches in the beginning and allows you to better isolate flaws in the process.

If the OP decides on a "traditional" rig there is no reason to start with BIAB to be able to get a grain mill. I, among many others use a Corona style mill. I got mine as a Christmas present, but they can be had for $20-$50.

I create my recipes at 68% efficiency and get 66 - 72%. Most of them come out in the 68-70% range.
 
My advice for the cheapest and most logical evolution of all grain brewing equipment is posted here.

I wish someone had posted this for me before I bought my huge 3 vessel. I would have been brewing great beer a year sooner.
 
Ok, I'm switching to all-grain.

What all (equipment wise) do I need exactly?


I'm looking for a total list.

Carboy x2
Mash Tun x1

Etc.

Assume I'm brand new and starting out and have ZERO home brew equipment (I can always cross off what I *DO* have).


Thank you.

Maybe I can help...All this and optional item..
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If the OP decides on a "traditional" rig there is no reason to start with BIAB to be able to get a grain mill. I, among many others use a Corona style mill. I got mine as a Christmas present, but they can be had for $20-$50.

I create my recipes at 68% efficiency and get 66 - 72%. Most of them come out in the 68-70% range.

Or you might even get good crushes from your LHBS. Then you don't have to mess with a mill at all. Until you want bags of bulk grain. :)
 
Love my mill if for no other reason than it really connects me to the grain. Something really enjoyable about crushing grain. That dust, wafting up out of the bucket... You know what I'm taking about. Dipping your hand down into those husks. Massaging them around in your hand, assessing the crush. Don't fight it. Just invest in the mill. She will change your life.
 
Love my mill if for no other reason than it really connects me to the grain. Something really enjoyable about crushing grain. That dust, wafting up out of the bucket... You know what I'm taking about. Dipping your hand down into those husks. Massaging them around in your hand, assessing the crush. Don't fight it. Just invest in the mill. She will change your life.


Whats her name?
 
Ok, I'm switching to all-grain.

What all (equipment wise) do I need exactly?


I'm looking for a total list.

Carboy x2
Mash Tun x1

Etc.

Assume I'm brand new and starting out and have ZERO home brew equipment (I can always cross off what I *DO* have).
Thank you.
You've seen lots of good recommendations and gotten lots of information. I started extract then went straight to BIAB, then eBIAB and made great beers. I recently bought a Grainfather (yes, I know, @ ~$800 not the cheapest solution,) but it is a wonderful piece of kit, easy to use, easy to clean and has a small footprint. Another benefit is the US version is 120V, so you can brew indoors with a 20A circuit (as long as you're close to a water faucet.) You might be thinking cheap now, but this wonderful hobby / obsession gets pretty expensive, pretty quickly, no matter which direction you go. You should at least look at the option before deciding. No matter what you decide,good luck and happy brewing! Ed
:mug:
 
All you "need" is a pot,heat source and a bag for the grains.Dont be scared off by all grain.If you can make oatmeal you can make all grain beer
 
.If you can make oatmeal you can make all grain beer

QFT.

I was put off of all grain for over a year thinking it was too hard. I wish I started off AG. I personally find it easier than extract, no worries about scorching extract, or when to add extract. Mashing is easy. Sparging is easy. I don't see the difficulty.
 
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