Analyzing my Ward Labs water report.

Hey, Below are the results from my Ward Labs report. But, first let me say how nice and easy it was to work with this lab. A local lab in my area quoted me a price 10 times higher in price for the same water parameters. They also took longer to get me a quote than Ward Labs took to get me the RESULTS....which are:

pH 8.1
Total Dissolved Solids (TDS) Est, ppm 201
Electrical Conductivity, mmho/cm 0.34
Cations / Anions, me/L 3.6 / 3.6
ppm
Sodium, Na 39
Potassium, K < 1
Calcium, Ca 16
Magnesium, Mg 13
Total Hardness, CaCO3 94
Nitrate, NO3-N < 0.1 (SAFE)
Sulfate, SO4-S 9
Chloride, Cl 14
Carbonate, CO3 < 1.0
Bicarbonate, HCO3 163
Total Alkalinity, CaCO3 135
Total Phosphorus, P < 0.01
Total Iron, Fe 0.03

Does this mean that I have moderately hard water and that my mashes should contain a teaspoon or two of Calcium Chloride and Gypsum plus a couple milliliters of lactic acid for most beer types? Anything else I should be aware of for brewing?

Thanks,
Tim

We'll wait for one of the big guns to weigh in (I read everything they write, trying to predict what they'll say), but I'd say offhand that's not bad water.

My Total Alkalinity is 345, and for my strike water I use 1 gallon of my water to 3 gallons of RO water, and then have to add a little calcium chloride and some epsom salts, and I end up adding 3 or 4 ml of Lactic Acid to the mash. I sparge w/ RO water.

I'm thinking your water might benefit from being cut a bit w/ RO water but compared to mine....we'll see what AJ or others have to say.

The things that stand out are the sodium at 39 and the alkalinity at 135 (2.7 mEq/L. You will need about 90% of that in acid to reach mash pH (2.4 mEq/L) that comes out to 9.1 mEq/gal and as 88% lactic is 11.4 N the implication is that you will be adding 9.1/11.4 = 0.8 mL lactic equivalent per gallon just to take care of the water's alkalinity. Given that you will need more acid for most grists it would be well if you could get the alkalinity down to say, under 1 mEq/L by means other than acid such as dilution with RO water. I've been giving this answer a lot recently because a lot of people have alkalinity at the 2 - 4 mval (mEq/L) level. If you can control the water's alkalinity by other means you have more flexibility in how you use acid to deal with grist proton deficits.

The sodium at 39 is not a problem but something else you need to keep an eye on. Should you want to augment chloride or should you need alkalinity for a very dark beer you would need to be circumspect about adding NaCl or NaHCO3 because of the already high-ish sodium level.

That alkalinity isn't that bad, but it does need neutralization in most cases. Dilution will be needed for some styles, but acidification will be adequate for many. The sodium content is just a little higher than I'd prefer, but it probably isn't going to screw up your beers.

You could stand some more calcium for clarity and yeast function, and the added hardness would offset a bit of the alkalinity. Additions of Calcium Sulfate (gypsum) for hop forward beers, and/or Calcium Chloride for malty beers would accentuate the flavors. For light colored beers, I agree, a little acidification would be in order.

Thank you so much! I am amazed at the homebrew communities willingness to help and share. I especially want to @ajdelange and @mabrungard, you sirs are scholars and gentlemen. Your dedication to the homebrew community is greatly appreciated.

I intend to use the resources available for water by style to modify my waters parameters. I am looking now at blending RO water and acid adjustments. I am so excited to get my brew on!!!

Again Thanks!!!

Thank you for your kind comments. My sixth grade teacher would not have agreed with either of them. I just noticed where you are posting from. I'm down at the other end (Ogden). Where do you get supplies and equioment? Is there any homebrewing scene in the Estrie (my French ends with bon jour).?

ajdelange said:

Thank you for your kind comments. My sixth grade teacher would not have agreed with either of them. I just noticed where you are posting from. I'm down at the other end (Ogden). Where do you get supplies and equioment? Is there any homebrewing scene in the Estrie (my French ends with bon jour).?

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What a small world! It is great to actually be so close to (and speaks English) another homebrewer. I get my supplies in a kludgy sort of way. For bulk grains I go my local wine supply store. I place an order with him and he gets the grains direct from Mout International. Shipping is free and the prices are good, but sometimes I wait two weeks to get supplies. I haven't found the hops to be fresh from Mout International. They arrive in clear vacuum sealed baggies and the selection isn't great. I use online bulk hop buys from nikobrew and farmhouse brewing supply. My system and upgrades and yeast were bought thru amazon, OBK or northern brewer. It is just lucky that I live close enough to have a p.o. box in Vermont or I would be really constrained. How about you? Where do you get your grain, hops, and yeast?

I have met only a few people in Estrie that brew beer but is rare. The beer scene is starting to grow. We have a local brew pub here, but they make very average beer and the selection isn't really great. Although I am comparing that to what I was used to when I lived in Portland, OR. I have visited the brewery in Coaticook and found them to be good. I will be visiting Sutton and the new brewery there soon. I would be interested in your experiences.

Actually, if you are ever interested in for a brew day you are more than welcome. I would be interested in your story and I think we could have a few good laughs over Estrie and Quebec in general.

Hey tim , your not alone homebrewing in Estrie. I'm in granby myself